Shrimpy's Rear Axel Seal

[Archive]

Well I'm back so call off the search party!!! First let me say thanks to all those who threw a possible solution my way, I do appreciate it. Especially Rodney who e-mailed me a pic of how the sleeve works. Now for the good stuff.

Had a problem finding a sleeve. Everyone looked at me like I was from Mars!!! Finally found a place that knew exactly what I was looking for. The owner of the Parts house asked why I needed it. Told him about my problem and he said that this was common on some Dana 60's and 70's. He said to feel for the "groove" on the bottom of the axel shaft, as this is where the "wear" problem tends to be. He went on to state that the hub nut needs to be torqued to spec. , he believed around 150 to 160 ftlbs. Said that alot of the reason for the wear begins with the hub not being torqued correctly.

When I started to work on it I noticed that the nut was definently NOT at 150 ftlbs of torque, maybe only 95 to 100 ftlbs. Per Rodney's instructions I measured the width of the area that the sleeve was to cover and thought I was O. K. You see the sleeve may have to be altered (shortened). Mine did but I mis-measured (Imagine that from the guy who always request the Idiot end of a tape measure). I of course found this out AFTER I hammered it on!!!!! DDDDDUUUUHHHHHOOO!!! The sleeve hung out about 1/32 to far to allow the bearing to rest agains it's stop. So I preceded to snip apart my $38. 00 sleeve!!!! I went ahead and stuck a Timken seal in the hub and put it back together and torqued it accordingly. 150+ ftlbs is quite a bit of torque!!! I definently did not have this much on it when I did the brakes early this month. After I finished the drivers side I went to the other side and retorqued it. Hopefully this fixed my problem, but only miles will tell. Again thanks guys for all the helpfull info on fixing my problem.

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92 Ext. Cab, Auto trans. , 3. 54 Non-LS, Isspro Tach, 16 cm housing, PW injectors, no name 3 Gauge cluster, 230,000+ miles, straight pipe, old and abused but still running strong!!!!

 

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buy the sleeve so u have it, use 3'' pcv
pipe as tube to hit it on with i did
this 1 yr ago still ok, throw away pcv
pipe when done. use sleeve cement
i de check it in 30 days then 90

bill

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1993 w350 ex cab, banks,nv 4500 in
open exaust, pw Injectors are in. Big rig flaps,tach in,. Its loud and goes ok, for a 93,Ham radio Call KK6dm
has ability to communicate any where in the world. Headliner shelf
5 antenna's

 

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Shrimpy,

150lbs? Did you back off any? I just can't believe that these things need to be torqued to 150. Mine maybe have 100? I didn't use a torque wrench but it isn't that hard to hit 100 with a 3/4" drive.

Do you think the 150 is too much? After torquing to 150 how well does the wheel spin when you had it off the ground?

Thanks,
Ryan

 

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Cooker, I was like you I thought that 150 was to much but everything spins fine!!!! When I did my brakes, I did not have a service manual and treated it like a front hub. I tightened to what seemed like a pretty decent ooommmppphhh with a 1/2 drive, then backed it off a little (less than 1/3 of a turn). The torque spec in the manual says between 145 and 160 ftlbs!!! I used a cheapy Sears torque wrench, the kind with the sliding scale at the end. Maybe not a cheapy but not a good K&D, or Snap On that you set by dialing the torque in on the end of the handle. The wheel spun perfectly well. I did all adjustments with the wheel off and just the hub so that the weight from the wheel would not make it spin easier. I also went to the other side and torqued it. It was between 100 and 105 when I tightened it to 150+. It had the wheel on the hub as I just pulled the axel and tightened the nut. I noticed no difference in how it spun basis a before and after test.

I had to re-adjust my brakes on this side because the little keeper that the cable rides in had moved. This is the thing that rides in two holes in the brake shoe housing that keeps the cable tight to keep the adjuster from spinning and loosening. If I confuse anyone with the above jargon, pull your hub off and you will see what I am talking about!!!! The owner of the auto parts told me about this torque spec. and he was right on. Seems that fOrDs from 73 to 79 basically had the same axel. He had a mechanic shop behind his auto parts for years but does no mechanic work now. He also said that the wear on the axel would be on the bottom half. I felt a slight groove but did not feel that it was enough to cause a problem but we will see. He said that the groove would be very noticible for it to be the problem. He believed that improper torque spec was my problem. Only time will tell if this is a fix or not.

[This message has been edited by Shrimpy (edited 02-01-2001). ]

 

[Archive]

Cooker,we had this issue come up on another post. Stated:I had torqued mine at 125 lbs. and no backing off. This was new to me also and didn't feel comfortable with this, but did it away. I've driven it 12,000 miles with no ill effects. But I think we may need to do some research to find out if this is the correct interpretation.