shutter at take off ??

[rjones]

I just replace the rear u joint and I now developed the take off shutter and at 30 mph a mild shudder like vibration then goes away at 35 mph I can drive 80 plus mph after that and its smooth as silk any ideas?

 

[AHofner]

do you have a two piece driveshaft? if so, perhaps the carrier bearing is going out.

 

[NIsaacs]

Again, if you have a two piece drive shaft, maybe the two were mis-aligned on assembly.



Nick

 

[rjones]

That would be the simplest solution after this week end fighting with the front axle joint and brakes all round ALLL weekend I was to tired to mess with the rear shaft... . Maybe tonight after work Ill try spinning it 180* see if that helps

 

[NIsaacs]

If the u-joint alignment is off, rotating it 180 degrees, it will still be off. Just look real close and see if the joints on both shafts line up. They need to be exact.



Nick

 

[rjones]

How much play let say up /down is allowable in the rubber of the carrier? Should it be solid and can move mine about 1/4-3/8 of an inch the bearing is fine but the rubber having the play..... ?

 

[JKreiss]

Mine was doing the same thing. My carrier bearing (rubber piece that holds the driveshaft together) was all tore apart. I'm on my second one in 130k miles. This one's starting to go out too so i'll be seriously considering the one piece drive shaft in the near future. It's not too difficult of a job, the shafts have to be pressed in i think. I had the local transmission shop do mine for $100.

 

[rjones]

Well I was wondering because I changed this one 2 years ago not many miles many 15k but the last one was really bad you can tell this one just feels spongee as hell

 

[JKreiss]

Yeah what i forgot to mention was that the last time i changed it out was Dec. of 2006. I remember because i was supposed to be leaving that next morning to visit family for Christmas... gotta love timing. So only about 30k miles or so on this one and it's starting to break apart. I'm not real impressed with the design.

 

[rjones]

Well I twisted the rear shaft 180* from the front shaft and made sure the joints are aligned the vibration at 30mph got worse... . take off shutter stayed the same... ... Getting really old screwing with this shaft and I don't have the money for the 1 piece #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!#@$%!

 

[JKreiss]

Well all i can say is maybe they changed the design of the newer ones but i highly doubt it. IIRC the part from dodge was well over $100 wich is B. S. Anyway i haven't gotten a quote on a one piece but will be finding out here in a few weeks. I'll probably be singing a different tune after that but for now that's still my plan. These carriers are a joke.



Joe

 

[BGlidewell]

my truck has had a shudder@launch since new, but only when unloaded/empty cargo.

 

[rjones]

I have a line on a used aluminum shaft for 220 bux shipped and it just figures I dont have the funds atm hopefully by next week i will... .

 

[MChessick]

Before you go spending anymore money, try shimming the centre bearing, this is also a known cause for the shudder and is an easy fix. You just need to change the pinion angle slightly.



Pitcru

 

[NIsaacs]

It sounds like everything was fine prior to the rear joint change. I am sorry if I sound repetitive but the three solid weld on yokes (two on the long shaft and one on the short shaft) must line up. Obviously the two on the long shaft can't change, but they need to line up with the yoke on the short shaft, not just the joint. You probably did this but just in case... ... ... .



Nick

 

[rjones]

The joints are aligned The joints are free moving no binding the carrier is sound the rubber is not broken around the bearing and has only 10-15k on it... Since a 180* turn didn't fix and made it a little worse

(30mph vibration wise) I'm going to turn 90* while still keep all joints aligned see if that helps... ... shimming the carrier where do I get these shims?

 

[MChessick]

Esay to make the shims, that is what I did. For test purposes, use equal amount of washers on the two bolts to move the center bearing closer to the ground. I would start off with washers an 1/8 thick and give it a try. Good luck.



Pitcru

 

[Prairie Dog]

From what I've gathered, the rubber in the center carrier gets softer or worn and doesn't control the shaft as well, especially at launch. Also, getting the u-joints centered is critical to balance and if the original joints weren't centerd when the shaft was first balanced (common), it impossible to get yours to work without vibration or at a min, getting the shaft re-balanced.

 

[NIsaacs]

I can tell by your response that I am not getting my point across. I am having a hard time explaining what I am trying to say.



If you lay the complete two piece drive shaft on the floor, there are three joints in the assembly. There are two solid weld on yokes on the long shaft and one weld on yoke on the short shaft. These three weld on yokes must be lined up. You can't line up the two solid yokes on the long shaft with the floppy end of the joint on the short shaft, the part of the joint that attaches to the transmission. They all must line up with the solid weld on yokes.



Maybe another way to say it is, never mind the joints. Just line up the three weld on yokes.



Nick

 

[rjones]

I can tell by your response that I am not getting my point across. I am having a hard time explaining what I am trying to say.



If you lay the complete two piece drive shaft on the floor, there are three joints in the assembly. There are two solid weld on yokes on the long shaft and one weld on yoke on the short shaft. These three weld on yokes must be lined up. You can't line up the two solid yokes on the long shaft with the floppy end of the joint on the short shaft, the part of the joint that attaches to the transmission. They all must line up with the solid weld on yokes.



Maybe another way to say it is, never mind the joints. Just line up the three weld on yokes.



Nick

if your directing this to me Im perfectly aware of what your saying and as I stated above they are aligned/phased