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Silent RV Generator Brands?

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Solar and off the grid question...

Anyone going to be at Pirateland?

I need a very quiet external / portable RV generator with enough power to kick off my 15K BTU Duo-Therm A/C unit.



I like the idea of the two Honda EU2000i's - so you can leave one at home in the winter (even quieter) and if you have trouble with one, you still have a power source. Still have to pay almost $1K per unit and another $250 to connect the two... $2,250 approx.



I also like the idea of the Yamaha EF3000iSE / B with the "boost" feature to kick off the A/C - several M/C club members use this unit with 15K A/C units with no problems. $2,000 approx.



Or, have any of you tried the Robin Subaru unit RG3200iS inverter? $2,000 approx. The guy I spoke with at Hayes Equipment said the Honda and Yamaha units have lots of plastic parts inside while the Robin Subaru has more metal - (he sells all three machines). He seemed pretty high on the RS machine. Its specs show it to be almost as quiet as the Yamaha (w/in 1dB).



Anyone have any experience with the Robin Subaru machine?
 
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CPittman said:
Anyone have any experience with the Robin Subaru machine?



When I was in the equipment business they were known as Wisconsin/Robin engines, as they were distributed in the USA by Teledyne-Continental under their Wisconsin name. The engines were well made and quite reliable and long lived. They were equal to Kawasaki and Yamaha, but didn't start quite as instantly as a Honda. My complaint was a pretty lousy parts distribution system and high parts prices, even by Japanese standards. This may have been rectified if they are no longer affiliated with T-C. I would assume it would be easier to find parts/service for the major brands along the road. My $0. 02.
 
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I'm leaning strongly towards the 2 honda eu2000's. You can get them for about $870-$880 at either mayberrys or alamia.



Only thing I don't like is I'm having a tough time trying to figure out how to secure them from theft. Chain and plastic handles can be cut pretty darn easy.
 
I have a Honda EU3000is and would do the 2 EU2000s if I had to do it again. The EU3000 biggest pitfall is its weight compared to the EU2000 IMO.



I believe there are plans/diagrams on www.irv2.com to make your own parallel cord for under $50.



Brian
 
If your main issue is noise go with a propane genset. They are by far the quietest... more expensive on the front end but propane is cheaper and cleaner burning. And you can feed a propane injection from the same tank or run it off your trailer's propane.

As for security. . the portables with the rectangular bases. . drill a hole or holes through the base and your bed and use a hitch pin lock. If you go with a RV design genset just mount it to your bed.

My 2 cents
 
Yamaha just came out with a 2800kv gen just a little bigger and heaver than a EU2000. Made to start a RV's AC. I havent seen one but if I was looking??
 
bombero said:
Yamaha just came out with a 2800kv gen just a little bigger and heaver than a EU2000. Made to start a RV's AC. I havent seen one but if I was looking??





I think you may be referring to the new EF2400IS, the EF2800I is about 10db louder than then Honda EU2000 and the new EF2400IS. I got one a month or so ago, works, great runs my 13. 5k btu AC without any problem, that is also what they have been claiming in thier adds for this unit.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/products/modelhome/475/0/home.aspx
 
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I bought two Honda EU2000i's about a week ago and used them on a camping trip last weekend. I also bought Honda's parallel kit. Anyway, I found that they would not sucessfully run my AC (13. 5 BTU) with the Eco throttle on. They were too slow to respond to the startup load which caused a momentary low voltage sitituation. I had to switch the Eco throttle off. With the Eco throttle off they are much more noisey than I would like, because they are both running at a fast RPM. And, I'm not sure how much that hurts fuel economy. Does anyone have a solution to this problem?

Jim
 
JimScott said:
I bought two Honda EU2000i's about a week ago and used them on a camping trip last weekend. I also bought Honda's parallel kit. Anyway, I found that they would not sucessfully run my AC (13. 5 BTU) with the Eco throttle on. They were too slow to respond to the startup load which caused a momentary low voltage sitituation. I had to switch the Eco throttle off. With the Eco throttle off they are much more noisey than I would like, because they are both running at a fast RPM. And, I'm not sure how much that hurts fuel economy. Does anyone have a solution to this problem?

Jim



Have you tried turning the eco throttle feature back on once the A/C clicks in to allow the sets to throttle back down? They might start the A/C compressor alone OK, but the blower added in maybe is too much?



My single EU-2000 will start my A/C if I first start the fan portion, let it get up to speed, then click in the compressor.



Unfortunately, after a bit, the A/C refrigerent head pressure builds, compressor current draw increases, and the Honda gives up...
 
Jim - good information... I think I've just about ruled out the two Honda's - as nice as it would be to only have to take one along in the winter, but its pretty much down to the Yamaha with the 'boost' feature to kick off the unit, or the Robin / Subaru with the extra grunt and good metal construction. Probably will go with the Yamaha due to a preceived better parts availability situation.
 
Have you checked out the Onan (a Cummins company) Camp Power series (gas or LP)

weather proof, can be installed in your trailer, remote start capable, Gas or LP LP LP... . my 5. 5k gas gen cost me an average of $25 a day when I'm dry camping. . 5 gal per hour x 24 = 12 x 2. 25 per gal = $27 per day. 37 days = $1000. 00

http://www.onan.com/onan/rvgenerators/CampPower/generatorDisplay.jsp

These run $1600 - 2800 but they are designed for your application and if you go LP/propane (am I beating a dead horse here?) it could balance out the up front cost.
 
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My $. 02 on the topic:

I got a Honda 3000 and it wouldn't successfully start my 13K btu a/c. The dealer swore up and down it should start it and that he never had anyone say it wouldn't. Blamed my a/c. He took it back (that was cool) and I just bought an generac 4000 to get me by. It does fine. (loud like a lawn mower though). I have a honda 1000 I found for $650 that I take when I don't need a/c. That is most every time except when travelling. We do high mountain camping for recreation. Definately the way to go is a propane monarch. Very quiet and more than enough power. Pricey but it would be sweet.
 
You might also want to check to see if you have an "easy start circuit" with your AC. I doubt you do as your trailer was designed for house power, but you never know. If not I would highly recommend one. this "ramps up " the initial load so a smaller genset can handle your ac.
 
JWolf said:
My $. 02 on the topic:

I got a Honda 3000 and it wouldn't successfully start my 13K btu a/c. The dealer swore up and down it should start it and that he never had anyone say it wouldn't. Blamed my a/c.





Keep in mind that these generators are rated at sea level. At higher altitudes a 3000 watt generator may only be putting out somewhere in the low to mid 2000 watts. The salesman generally won't tell you that though. While camping using my Honda EU2000 at 7500' elevation I can't run a Hotrod ( electric hot water heater ) and Microwave at the same time. The Microwave dims and then dies after a few seconds. Turn off the Hotrod and the Microwave runs just fine. When camping at the beach the generator works just fine with both the Hotrod and the Microwave running.



Another thing to keep in mind with respect to these high wattage items ( air conditioning and microwave ), they generally want their power now. You shouldn't try to start them in the ecomomy mode. The economy mode enables the generator to idle at low speed ( low wattage ) until a load is detected, at which time they power up. The problem is, some items ( air conditioners and microwaves ) have protection features built in and will shut off if low wattage is detected.







2003 SLT 3500 CC/SWB 305/555 48RE LEER SHELL
 
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