Skyjacker 2" front spring issue revisited

[Makaio]

We have had l e n g t h y discussions regarding the issue with the front spring eye bushing/bolt for those of us with '92 & '93 W-series. Some of us ran the 5/8 bolt with no steel sleeve. Some of us had modified the center of the bushing to accomodate the larger sleeve. After a year of running with no sleeve, the thought constantly bothered me so I looked into it. I was waiting on parts for a kingpin bushing and spring replacement so I checked the front spring eye bushing just out of curiosity. It did show some signs of wear so after several phone calls, I finally corrected it. I took my set to the local spring shop and they re-rolled the front eye from 1" ID to 1 1/4" ID and installed the correct oversized bushing with the proper 5/8 ID sleeve. The center pin was relocated to compensate for the shortening of the overall length after the re-roll; I was told 3/8" so the axle position wouldn't be affected. I wish I had done this from the start but I had no idea that a spring eye could be re-rolled. The shop did an excellent job and even repainted it so it looks brand new. Just thought I'd share this as it has been posted several times causing concern.



Aloha from the 808 State,

Matt

 

[Don Tanklage]

great...



i am currently installing the sky jacker junk as we speak



1992 1 ton 4x4 dually going up 6" front, 4. 5" in da rear



figured i would do the rear first. i removed the stock springs. the skyjacker springs had rubber bushings in ea end and a nice sleeve (knurled ends and all, just like stock) but they were for 1/2" bolts? sent them back to skyjacker, told them e x a c t l y what truck this kit was for (3/4" rear bolts, 5/8" front bolts) and waited for 2 weeks.



the springs they sent me must have the same ends on them as the ones you have



i am not comfortable running them w/o a sleeve



what a joke



the 3/4" bolt wobbles around like crazy in the bushing for the rear (w/o a sleeve)



did you drive yours like that for a year?



how did it handle?



i am so frustrated rivght now it aint funny



tank

 

[MMiller]

Hey Don,

On my front springs they have been in there for quite a few years now, and I run them with no sleeves *HOWEVER* the bolt for the front springs slid snuggly into the poly bushings. The only reason I can see needing the spacer tube is to prevent the spring hanger from totally smashing the poly bushing. I use lock nuts and just tighten them up so the bolt is tight, but not tight enough to start drawing the hanger closed.



I've never installed springs on the back of a diesel truck, so I can't tell you what to do there. If the bolts slop around in the bushings, then something needs to be done there. Is there already a sleeve in there? Or can you get one for it? I'd call Skyjacker and talk with them, hopefully they will help you. Do you have a local spring shop, that works on suspensions? They usually can get anything you need, and will sell just the bushings, so maybe they can help you. I know its probably not what you want to do, but remember you're working on an old Dodge truck. Help from the aftermarket usually is bad, and "some assembly required, batteries not included". I know the Softrides I put in the front of my 93 greatly improved the ride of the truck, and have lasted very well.



Michael

 

[Makaio]

great...



i am currently installing the sky jacker junk as we speak



1992 1 ton 4x4 dually going up 6" front, 4. 5" in da rear



figured i would do the rear first. i removed the stock springs. the skyjacker springs had rubber bushings in ea end and a nice sleeve (knurled ends and all, just like stock) but they were for 1/2" bolts? sent them back to skyjacker, told them e x a c t l y what truck this kit was for (3/4" rear bolts, 5/8" front bolts) and waited for 2 weeks.



the springs they sent me must have the same ends on them as the ones you have



i am not comfortable running them w/o a sleeve



what a joke



the 3/4" bolt wobbles around like crazy in the bushing for the rear (w/o a sleeve)



did you drive yours like that for a year?



how did it handle?



i am so frustrated rivght now it aint funny



tank

Don,



Personally, I have never been comfortable with the thought that I was running without a steel sleeve in the front spring eye bushing. I rolled my eyes when the Skyjacker tech on the phone told me, "Oh, just leave out the sleeve, yeah, that'll work, as long as it's snug". I don't know if my bad kingping bushings/springs escalated the wear on the Skyjacker eye bushings; I don't think I would have checked it after only a year if I wasn't in the process of changing kingpin bushings and springs. If you do decide to re-roll the spring eyes as I did, just be sure that the center pin gets relocated to compensate for the shortening of your overall eye to eye spring length. It will keep your front axle in the correct position for caster and geometry. Unfortunately, we have only 2 spring shops here on the island but, both of them recommended against a sleeveless bushing and that bothered me more. Toyotas have a sleeveless poly bushing but they don't have an 1100lb. Cummins to support. Do it right the first time. I think you'll feel much better about it. I regret not re-rolling the eye the first time but I had no clue a spring COULD be re-rolled after it was manufactured. Good luck.



Aloha,

Matt

 

[Steve Graham]

Reasons for useing a spacer,

The bolts holding the springs on are fasteners. If you add bushings without spacers the bolts also become bearings. The bolts will then rotate when the spring flexs and elongate the holes in mounts. I've had to weld up the front spring mount holes on my Dodge many years ago because of this problem with Skyjacker springs. What they told me was they only make one size of spring eyes for the front springs, its for the gas motors. IF you order a 2" lift for your CTD they pull a 4" lift spring for a gas motor and you get stuck with the smaller spring eye on the front.

Because I didn't know about being able to resize the spring eye, I welded two small blocks on the spring hanger against the flats of the bolt head to prevent them from rotating.



Steve