Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) slave cylinder

[JustinParks]

recently installed new clutch on my truck. before i did it the transmission shifted smoothly. after new clutch the transmission was realy notchy feelen an acted like the clutch wasnt disengagen all the way. i replaced slave cylinder with a new factory unit. bleed it multiple times but pedal never came back. i returned it an got a diferent 1 thinken i got faulty 1. new 1 did the same. also i drained all fluid an put new in so im thinken i might have air trapped some were but dont no what to do with it. bleeden it hasnt changed anything. thax 4 the help.

 

[JMetzger]

I think that you have to replace both master & slave on these trucks as they come as a unit. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

[JustinParks]

flywheel was new along with clutch.



i found that u can by the hole unit (master an slave) also but its almost the same price as the hd from sbc. so i thought i would try the cheaper route first. if cant figure it out il just have to go the more xpensive way

 

[icman95]

Go to south bend clutch page here:

South Bend Clutch Dodge Clutch Kits Catalog



All the way at the bottom of the page on the right side is the hyd kit you need. I had exactly the same problems you're having and it was because the factory hyds can't provide enough travel for the aftermarket clutches. The SBC hydr kit is adjustable and will give you what you need. There is very little else to do. This will take care of your problems.

 

[hilda]

flywheel was new along with clutch.



i found that u can by the hole unit (master an slave) also but its almost the same price as the hd from sbc. so i thought i would try the cheaper route first. if cant figure it out il just have to go the more xpensive way

Don't go the cheaper route, for a few extra $ get the upgrade. I did and it is great. I can now drive with boots on, before not so much. You can buy the slave alone, and it is a PIA to bleed the system. If your going to keep the truck the upgrade is well worth it.



Jim

 

[GCroyle]

Justin,



Don't give up, fix the hydraulics.



The S/C can be tested for trapped air by blocking the piston from extending, use a steering wheel puller or similar. It bolts to the S/C mounting flange, use the screw to block the piston. Push on the pedal with your hand, it should be hard as a rock with about 1/8" - 3/16" MASTER CYLINDER PUSHROD TRAVEL. If it moves a couple of inches at the pedal, bleed it.



Remove the S/C from the bell housing, let it hang down. Remove the M/C cap and follower. If you have an assistant, get them to watch the fluid while you push the push rod in several times, slowly, watch for bubbles breaking the surface of the fluid. You may need to repeat this process several times.



If you have a hand operated vacuum pump, there is a way to use it to apply vacuum to the TOP of the M/C reservoir and actually pull bubbles up through the fluid, it works.

 

[Hackamore]

Make sure your stock hydralics are still good. I took my "supposedly faulty ones" apart and found rust and crud inside the body of both master and slave. I cleaned them off and refilled with fluid via gravity. I filled the master and pulled the plunger out of the slave then lowered the slave below the level of the master, it filled the slave and I replaced the plunger when fluid was at the top. The two assemblies I fixed were "bad" but in reality they were just dirty. Still working today. Hope this helps. Fabian