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Slick tricks for one person to get the cat out for gutting?

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I started the process of spading the cat today but got hung up, then ran out of day light.

I cat is loose on both ends, but due to the crimps from the clamps it won't slide off the pipes. Can anyone lend me some pointers on how to get the thing off without bashing the crap out of the pipes, muffler, cat, etc. I'd like to get it back on without looking like it's been beat to death. I had all the hangars loose from the cat back but the crimps held me up. I'm on my own and on my back (no lift to hiest it up). I have a torch and tried heating it but this didn't seem to help.

Thanks in advance.
JK
 
About the only way I know to get it off with out cutting is to heat the outside of the slip joint red hot all the way around and 3" or so long and push the joint sideways until the sleeve get bigger around inside and the crimp gets kinda pushed back out till it slides apart. Also might try loosening all the rearward hangers, fasten a come-a-long to the system behind the heated joint and try pulling it apart while its red hot.
Good Luck

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA
 
I dropped the exhaust and disassembled it using a dead blow hammer (rubber mallet filled with lead shot) and a vise and some muscle. I didn't try the torch, that might work pretty good too.

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98 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, Governor "Modified", Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, SS Tube Steps, Fifth Whl Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer
 
I removed the muffler hangers from the frame, front and back and unbolted the rearmost hanger. I sat on the floor behind the truck and grabbed the tailpipe and with a little twisting and pulling the whole thing came apart. I did put a cardboard box under the muffler to keep it from hitting the ground.

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Camper/Tow package, Auto, BD Pressure Loc, Mystery Switch, TST 230/605, Cat under "Test", Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Wheel. Also use 9. 5' Lance camper. NRA Life Member.
 
I started soaking down the front and rear of the cat, about a month in advance. Hangers too.
I suppose it helped, but I still had to get the die grinder out to complete the job.
The cat it probibally useable, but I'll go the hot wrench route next time.
 
Just put the oxy-ace torch to it with a big tip. Once I got my crimped area red hot, a 3lb hammer on the ears of the cat persuaded it to separated. It ain't brain surgery, use muscle!
 
Sounds like heat is the way to go. As I said I attempted that, but frankly I didn't heat it as much as you've all indicated.

I had all the hangars loose and tried pulling from the tail pipe but it appeared that a little impact action would be needed.

Thanks again. I'll turn up the heat, though I'm thinking I may still need a friend - one of us pulling/hammering and another heating.

JK
 
Use a Dremel tool with cut off blades to cut two slots about 2" long in each pipe. This allows the ends to expand slightly and she'll slide right off. The Dremel makes very fine cuts that are barely noticeable. BTW: the Dremel is one of the most usefull tools I've every bought. Has saved me many hours on repairs.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
108,000 miles and counting.
 
LandShark,

Have one, and agree with you. Use mine all the time. I like your suggestion. While I've used my torch for years, somehow, lying on my back under the truck by myself with that flame-thrower going has me just a bit nervous. I'm a cautious kind-a guy.

Thanks for the suggestion.

JK
 
Another trick is to loosen the clamps,find a tight fitting cover for the tailpipe,then toss a cherry bomb in there,hope it comes apart where you wanted #ad
KGK,no problem with a torch under the rig,there is plenty of clearance and no wires or lines in the area where you need to work. I'd be more concerned where the sparks flying from a grinder are landing when under the truck by myself.
 
Use a small bottle jack on its side. Use the two 3 inch clamps at appropiate distances around the first joint on the ehaust pipe and the 2 foot section of pipe. Use the flange on the cat and the 4 inch clamp on the muffler (place the clamp up against the muffler to prevent bending the muffler. The muffler and tailpipe hangers deflct enough to break the joints. The short 3 inch pipe/cat joint can be broken, if desired for installation of the Dodge cat test pipe, after removal. Reassemble with coaxing by use of a cable come-a-long.

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'97 SLT 2500, 4x2 LB Club Cab, auto, 230/605 fuel plate and 215 injectors, pillar mount Isspro gauges, BD torque converter, BD valve body, BD Pressureloc, Mag-Hytec transmission pan and differential cover, 3. 54 LSD, white/driftwood, air dam, sliding rear window, towing/camper pkgs, Rhino liner, SS bed caps, stake pocket tie downs, chrome exhaust turn down, SS wheel well trim, Carr steps, Mopar mudflaps, Aerotank under seat toolbox, Cobra 75WXST CB/Firestik, J-MAC louvered aluminum headache rack and tail gate, Mopar flag/tow mirrors, Reese 15k fifth wheel hitch. Mopar Ram hood ornament, Sweet Tooth grill, and white dice. Kennewick, WA.
 
Thanks all.

Managed to get the job done last weekend. Used a combination of torch and come-a-long to pull them apart. Would have been easier with another body to help.

Putting it back together required a similar approach.

The cat was fairly clean surprisingly (50K miles). Spade the little devil anyway. I've only used about a quarter tank since but so far it doesn't look like it's done much for mileage.

JK
 
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