Slide-in tie downs

[Dieselnerd]

If you are using the Happijac mounts there is a bar that bolts in the front of the bed between the ears. It made a big difference in mine. Dodge is one of the vehicles that Happijac says needs the bar because the bed flexes too much in front. There was an article about slide in campers in Trailer Life a couple of years ago. Said the same thing about Dodge, that's when I added mine. My bed never cracked, the mounts were just easily flexed.

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Camper/Tow package, 3500 brake cyls. , Automatic, TST 230/605, Cat Test Pipe, Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, Rancho 9000's, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Wheel. Also use 9. 5' Lance camper. NRA Life Member. KDP 61,000 NM-WT

[This message has been edited by Dieselnerd (edited 05-22-2001). ]

 

[LandShark]

Dieselnerd: I didn't know what brand of tie downs I had, so I went the the happijac.com site and sure enough, that's what I have but without the stabilizer bar installed. I've got an email in to them to get price on just the stabilizer bar... ..... THANKS !!

 

[Ramrod]

I just went thru this whole issue. I just purchased a S and S 11 DB camper. With having a 3500 and putting in a 3300lb load I was warned by another TDR member about the cracking bed. I had already decided on the Happi jax. At a recent dyno day a fellow showed me his welded repaired bed. He has 2 friends with the same situation. He went to a frame mount set up, and reccomended the same. He has a 2500 with a 9. 5 Alpenlite I believe. Anyway it was just in time for me. I drove to Montana last week and had my camper installed on at the manufacturer. I looked at the new hjax system. It has a extention that now goes down to the frame. I decided to just steer clear of the hj system. I had Tork Lift Frame mounts installed. I can drive with security. As a test I drove home from S N S Campers in Montana, all the way back to NJ. It took me around 37. 35 hours. Only 2 hours more than the way out running empty. I averaged 61 MPH. Got weighed in Missoula -11820 lbs. Averaged just over 12MPG home. Up thru the mtns and around the rolling hills and it just felt rock solid.

IMO tie downs are just like having a good set of speakers. You could have the best stereo, but if you have crap speakers its all worthless. Spend the money. It will give you peace of time. It may even make you some time on the road.

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RED 98 3500 12v 4x4 Quad Cab SLT Larimie, 4"BD exhaust and brake, triple mount AutoMeter Ultra Lights on the pillar, governor spring kit, delivery valves, 370 B injectors, 332-700 camplate, 16 cm2, new carter lift pump,B&M Hammer Shifter, Catz Foglights,New Factory towing mirrors,Mag-Hytec diff,South Bend Clutch, Hellwig AirBags,Horton Fan Clutch, NorthWest "Fear This" mudflaps,custom dynamic timed pump by AWD,Linex,Cup Smoothie,Tonneau cover w/ bike rack over the bed,Billet grill and bumpers inserts, Eclipse w/center seat sub enclosure and remote alarm,Super hitch.
2001 S & S 11DB Slide In Camper
80 Porsche 911 SC Turbo Look Porsche Club Racing Trackcar, Totally Bombed
Cannondale Killer V 900 SL

 

[Dieselnerd]

I agree if you have a heavy camper the happijac tie downs may be a little light. For me, with a 9. 5 ft. Lance it works great. I drive on forest roads and off road on my hunting land and I've never had any problems. I'm pretty maxed out with the 9. 5 Lance and if I wanted a bigger one I would have to go to a 3500 truck and probably frame tie downs.

 

[LandShark]

I'm using the standard camper tie down (ears bolted to bed (4 bolts each) and rear bumper attachments). I've had to do some repairs to the bed for cracked welds and can only see things getting worse if I don't find a better way to fasten down the camper.

Can anyone recommend a good tie down system that's not to pricey or lessen the ground clearance much? The rear attachments seem OK. It's the fronts that really need beefing up.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3600 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
111,000 miles and counting.

 

[dresslered]

The Happi-Jak tie-down system is a VERY poor design! The front of the camper gets tied to the bed while the rear is tied to the bumper (essentially frame mounted). All that the stabilizer bar will do is stiffen the front of the bed. It will not help with the design deficiencies.

I had originally installed the Happi-Jak system with the stabilizer bar so that I could pick up my new camper and I soon noticed the deficiencies for myself! I then immediately switched to the Tork-Lift frame mounted system with superb results. I use the "rigid" Tork-Lift tie-downs and have retained the Happi-Jak spring-loaded turnbuckles (do not use with the spring version of the Tork-Lifts). I wasted good money on the Happi-Jak's and now store the stabilizer bar in my garage. Another poor design is with the stabilizer bar itself. It does not allow you to lift the camper straight up. Doing so, will cause the camper "bumpers" to hit the stabilizer bar.

If you have a very large or stiff camper (aluminum frame or rigid siding), you MUST either tie the entire camper to the bed ONLY or tie the camper to the frame ONLY. As you probably realize, the bed can move independently from the frame (on the order of several inches). As a result, this flexing can damage the camper AND/OR bed. Tying the camper to the bed only still allows for bed movement, while tying the camper to the frame forces the bed to move with the frame. The Happi-Jak system ties the front of the camper to the bed and the rear of the camper to the frame (bumper) which forces twisting. I strongly recommend the Tork-Lift Camper tie-downs. My Big Foot owner's manual also strongly cautions against the above insufficient tie-down methods.

Some have said that the wood framed campers are able to flex accordingly using the Happi-Jak system. Do you really want your camper to do this?


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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins ETH/DEE, SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine + diff. temp. ), Autometer Ultra-Lite (electric fuel pressure, vacuum), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, SmittyBilt Outland Sport Bumper Gaurd, 2-LO kit, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper. "Do it in a Dually"


[This message has been edited by dresslered (edited 05-24-2001). ]

 

[RobG]

With as many problems as I've had with my new truck and stuff I've bought for it, I'm happy to give an OUTSTANDING recommendation for the Tork Lift camper tie-downs and their matching Super Hitch.

I had the HappiJacks on my '96, and they were adequate. But when I got the new truck, I wasn't about to drill holes in it. I also BENT the lame-*** Reese Titan V hitch and extension bar (without even trying or overloading it), so I got rid of all that crap and went with Tork Lift.

There was no dealer within 50 miles of me, so I dealt directly with the factory up in Washington state. My rep was Robin, and she's very helpful and a complete sweetheart.

The stuff wasn't cheap... I think I'm about $1000 or so into the whole setup (hitch, tie-downs, 48" extension bar, etc), but it's been worth it. I've never seen a beefier setup.

The Tork Lift camper tie-downs are frame mounts that bolt onto the front frame of the truck, and the rear ones bolt onto the sides of the hitch. You can either drill into your factory hitch, or if you use their Superhitch, the holes are already provided. The hitch is HUGE. All by itself, it weighs 100 lbs BEFORE you add the camper tie-down receivers to it. The factory hitch receiver, by comparison, is 40 lbs.

One word of warning... if you intend to install Velvet Ride Shackles, do so BEFORE you install the Superhitch, otherwise you'll get to remove the hitch to get the bolts out of the shackles. I discovered this after the fact, which is why my Velvet shackles are still on the shelf in the garage.

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, HX-40, Southbend Clutch, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc.

 

[dresslered]

Yeah, Robin set me up too!