Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Sliding stock plate

[PWeber]

I see many profiles that say "plate slid full forward". Though I see posts about sliding the plate that say only 1/16". What is up with that?

 

[TFlower]

Had this done to my stock truck last year. What a difference in performance. Not near as good as a new fuel plate, but for the money, not bad. The only bad thing about was my exhaust temp's went up. Sometimes under heavy load, they would get high enough for me to back off till it dropped.

Mine was slid all the way forward, then about 1/16" back. Not exactly sure why myself, but the mechanice that did it said he has had the best luck doing it this way. At least on the 95's.

 

[PWeber]

mine is a 96 auto

 

[Bigramguy]

Sliding the plate full forward makes a pretty big improvement,but like stated above,it can get hot. Moving it back just a hair will help with temps.



Blocking off the wastegate,or using a boost elbow will help controls temps too. You will need more air to go along with the extra fuel.



You may have to turn up your trans line pressures some,as the extra power may start slipping the trans or convertor clutch.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

....remember the 'remove your plate' threads?

Why not take the stock plate right out? :-laf



Matt

 

[Forrest]

here we go

 

[C. Harlan]

They should call it a one way sliding plate....

Because once you move it forward, you do not want to move it back. Something to ponder...



-Chris-

 

[shendren]

i had my plate slid forward and boost orifice put in. then i opted for a tst #8 plate. no difference in performance. i don't monitor egt's since i only haul a** most of the time... ...

 

[Hummin Cummins]

I had mine all the way, then slid it back halfway in between full and stock. I've been in there more times than I care to think about. It seems my truck runs best halfway between. Just feels like its alot snappier on the low end than it was with the plate all the way. I also had a #8 I bought on e-bay It is in the junk pile now.

 

[98rammer]

OORRRR... . you can grind your stock plate flat so it equals a #0 plate and put it in stock location and do the piers lever arm adjustment.



Tom

 

[kchristopher]

I've slid the plate full forward and haven't had any temp problems, even pulling about 5000# and having a wind blocking shelf about a foot higher than the cab. I do have a BHAF and the cat has been modified for higher flow. Stock muffler remains.

 

[Jff24Gordn]

Well, My plate has been slide as far as it will go for 2. 5 years. Temps aint bad, the water hasnt been over 200*F, but I need a bigger egt gauge. Isspro reads to 1500*, stops at 1600*. it will bury with no load, much less 20k behind me. Hits up to 48psi.

 

[wsmalley]

I have talked to some folks who say when you slide it far enough forward, you might as well take it out because the arm isn't touching anymore anyway. People just leave it in because it makes they think they are keeping the rack from breaking. I know numerous people who run plateless and I have yet to see a rack failure.



Will

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I'm not one of them plateless guys..... :-laf



Matt

 

[b.ferrara]

#10 plate

I was talking to Mark at PDR and was told not to slide plate forward, that the best thing to do is buy plate and make a small adjustment to the starwheel. What do you guys think of this!

thanks in advance. Also wondering if the egg washer from TST is a good way to fix kdp? did the jig on my 1st gen, but want to put new gasket on front plate on my 2nd gen(sorta kill 2 birds at once). thanks again Bill

 

[98rammer]

ahem, piers' arm adjustment...

 

[PWeber]

OK, I cracked her open tonight and slid the plate. I scribed it before hand. I did notice however that the actual cover I removed that had that "finger" thing in it had oblong holes in it that would allow it to slide unde the 4 hold down bolts. Now, I did not mark it and assume sliding it in the opposite direction has the same affect? Also, what is the rotating deal on the front of that cover that is held in place by a 10mm bolt?

 

[Smokin Dodge]

afc

That thing that covers the plate is the afc housing and that finger looking thing is the low boost fuel controller, and the oblong holes are for adjusting the afc move it towards the front of the motor for more fuel backwards for less, and that 10mm bolt holds the finger on.

 

[PWeber]

Under that 10 MM bolt is an oblong washer that appears it rotates left and right if you loosen the bolt. Is that correct? If so, of what affect does this have?

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Moving that oblong washer makes the AFC rack stop harder or easier to slide... . it's more of an alignment thing than anything else. Variances in manufacturing probably required this.....



Matt