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Slotted/Drilled front rotors for SUV

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My stepdaughter has a 2007 Toyota Highlander. It is needing front brake rotors. We did a brake job on this vehicle in 2010. There is only about 10000 miles on OEM turned rotors and Carquest Blue line pads.

I have used drilled Rotors on a Subaru and had great success with them However Aftermarket Toyota applications are beyond my experience.

Are there any opinions about EBC Dimpled/slotted rotors? Any other makers, applications, materials to stay away from; ie; steel vs cast iron?

Personal experiences, professional advice? I appreciate all input. Thanks in advance, for your time and thoughts! GregH
 
Sorry, I don't know the details, but several jeep (cherokee) owners that I have known claimed that the slotted/drilled front rotors were the only solution to their constant warped/cracked OEM rotors.
 
Yes! I'm just trying to eliminate a trial and error method of picking good aftermarket parts. We are going to do the cheap repair by turning the rotors and installing new pads. It is only a short term solution. The long term is to do the Slotted/dimpled rotors, matching pads and any caliper work. She needs to save up the money. If the rotors will actually be able to be resurfaced, one more time? 'Course, the mass will be reduced and the rotors will warp far more easily. With the soft Toyota pads they may last until next Summer. The present operation is not conducive to safe driving on winter roads and is hard on the brake calipers. Thanks for your input! GregH
 
Yes! I'm just trying to eliminate a trial and error method of picking good aftermarket parts. We are going to do the cheap repair by turning the rotors and installing new pads. It is only a short term solution. The long term is to do the Slotted/dimpled rotors, matching pads and any caliper work. She needs to save up the money. If the rotors will actually be able to be resurfaced, one more time? 'Course, the mass will be reduced and the rotors will warp far more easily. With the soft Toyota pads they may last until next Summer. The present operation is not conducive to safe driving on winter roads and is hard on the brake calipers. Thanks for your input! GregH



I had been fighting warped rotors for almost 10 yrs on our '02 Durango. They would literally warp on the way home from the brake shop after being turned and/or replaced with stock.



I did some research and bought some Powerstop slotted and drilled rotors and Powerstop Z16 Evolution pads and absolutely love them. Super simple install. Brand new parts. Shorter braking distances, firmer pedal, no more warped rotors and no more brake dust !! I purchased the whole set for the front (rotors and pads) for $128 delivered to my door.



These even have a nice finish on them still and they look nice behind my wheels. Slotted rotors | Drilled Rotors – Power Stop



If you are having warped rotor issues with the stock set up, I don't see how you can go wrong trying something aftermarket.



I will never turn rotors again... When it come time to replace the pads in 100k or whatever, I will just purchase new rotors again...
 
Wow!!!

Thanks for your post and pictures! I'll show them to my Stepdaughter! We will look into the "powerstop" rotors, also! Thanks again! GregH
 
out of curiosity have you checked to make sure there isint a caliper sticking? 10,000 mi seems way to fast for brakes to warp under normal conditions, or maybe shes a 2 footed driver? I know a few people with highlanders and they havent had problems, I dont think its common for the vehicle
 
Warped Rotors

I find it hard to believe that a brake rotor would warp under most any but some wildly extreme conditions. I thought I knew about all I needed to know about brake systems until I read a very informative article about them right here, well in the magazine 5 or 6 issues back. There may have been some good info on brake fluid in it or maybe that was another article which is a worthwhile read while you are on this topic. I have seen rotors on many dirt track race cars turn glowing dull red when the brake bias valve would goof up not let one release all the way for a lap or so and cool off and be fine. We are running a couple that have been hot now and we raise the car and check every wheel every time the car comes off the track for the slightest amount of drag and correct it if any. I HIGHLY recommend you find and read the brake systems article, before you put new rotors and or pads on because there is a procedure for breaking them in. They never told me that at the parts store and I don't remember instructions in the box with the brake pads either!
 
I had terribly cracked rotors on my wife's Durango. Auto transmission and her digital driving is 'extreme conditions' in my opinion. Looked at all the fancy slotted/drilled rotors and ended up going with RAYBESTOS Brake Rotors and Bosch pads. No problems since. Fingers XXXX'ed.
 
Thanks!!!!

1972JohnBoy, I have no idea why these rotors are warping. In light of your experience in racing applications, it is a puzzle!

Thanks all for your replies. Hopefully the issue will be dealt with soon.

I will check for stuck calipers as well as any other possible causes. GregH
 
Warped Rotors

1972JohnBoy, I have no idea why these rotors are warping. In light of your experience in racing applications, it is a puzzle!

Thanks all for your replies. Hopefully the issue will be dealt with soon.

I will check for stuck calipers as well as any other possible causes. GregH



You would be enlightened if you would read the article on brake systems. What you are most likely feeling if it is in the brake pedal is far more likely high spots on the rotor rather than it being warped. If you get on the brakes hard from a high speed up to a stop, that generates a lot of heat in the rotor, then sit for a minute at the light with your foot on the brake, pads mashed against that very hot rotor, it will bond a little bit of the pad to the rotor in those spots when they release and you drive away. There is supposed to be some of the pad material bonded to the rotor all the way around it, that is how the system is designed to work, that is why new rotors and or pads should be bedded in or broken in properly to transfer some of the pad to the rotor friction surface uniformly. When I stop at a stoplight, especially if I was going fast and had to get on the brakes hard, I always leave some room between me the guy I'm behind and inch up a bit 8-10 or so times until I can pull away rather than sit there with the brake pads in the same spot. Some people are hard on brakes, always braking late and hard at every light and likely driving too fast too. I like to drive fast and sideways some of the time but not on the highways. Good luck to ya
 
I use the powerstops on almost every thing i have except my race car (i have to use factory replacement rotors per rules) and I love them. after driving on them for a while and then trying a set of the best wagner had to offer i went right back.
 
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