Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) slow starting 1997

[jkh]

Since the beginning of winter , my truck has been turning over real slow. Checked both batteries and they seem fine, I think if it was batteries they would have gone completely dead by now, wouldn't they?
Today I took off all the cables and cleaned everything and scraped the batt, terminals and the inside of the terminals, Also had a charger on each battery for about 4 hours. Hooked everything back up, still just barely turns over. It does start because these old 12 valves start so easy, but why is it turning over so slow. Would a bad starter do it. I did put Larry B big contacts in a few years ago. but didn't do anything else to it. Any suggestions? Just don't want it to leave me stranded.

 

[DavidC]

Did you load test the batteries ?. I just replaced both of mine yesterday ( 207.00 ouch). When I started it last weekend it was slow, put it back in the garage, went to use the truck yesterday and no start. Put a charger on it and it showed 65% and ten minutes went to 100%. Disconnected the batteries and hooked up the load tester. Both batteries failed and would not even come close to being any good. I would verify good batteries first as one or more dead cells can cause your problem.

Dave

 

[rrl989]

Why did you replace the starter contacts? Was it slow starting then? Still sounds like bad contacts.

 

[Cosmo]

How's your blow-by? Vacuum pump leaking? My truck started having starting issues and it was because the starter was full of oil and grime due to the puke tube and vacuum pump.

 

[jkh]

just put the batteries in 2 years ago. Did load test them with a battery tester and both showed good.
Put the big contacts in because they were starting to stick on.
I do have blow by, and my vacuum pump may be leaking as it takes for ever to go into 4 wheel drive and the defroster knob no longer works ( only blows out defroster) and the cruise control doesn't work. I already replaced the tube under the battery with a piece of copper tube for the cruise so I know that's not the vacuum problem. What would a leaking vacuum pump have to do with the starter? how would I check that?
Thanks.

 

[GAmes]

There is a theory out there that a vacuum leak can cause excessive blowby. That is kind of like saying you can over pressure a water hose with a water straw. Anyway, it isn't a tough job to remove the starter and check the contacts. Mine lasted well over 600k with one set of Larry B's but yours could be different.

 

[KBurgoyne]

Ive replaced my starter twice. The first time something broke loose on the inside and it was grounding itself. Same type of symptoms though, vey weak start and then other times it would just click and nothing happened. Second time a bearing went bad and it couldnt make enough giddy up and sounded like poo. Both times the starters and batteries passed all of the volt/amp tests, but when they were on the tester you could hear or see something was wrong. Got the new starter from autozone with an unlimited lifetime warranty. When the bearing went bad in the first one they just handed me a new one. One other thing that might have happened is the dust cover was damaged or pinched when the contacts were put in and the starter is full of road crap, did that one too.

 

[hsmith]

Corroded cables? Check down past the insulation.

 

[jkh]

so I guess I'm going to get a starter. going off track, though, how do I check the vacuum pump

 

[GAmes]

Do your dash vents and cruise control work. If so, vacuum pump is good. Before getting a starter check the one you have. Parts store starters are of marginal quality, so be sure, if you get one that it is a lifetime warranty.

 

[jkh]

vents or cruise do not work, thats why I think its the vacuum pump.
how can I check the starter?

 

[crabman]

There is a hard plastic line that runs from the V/P up to the firewall that goes into a 3 way connector. That connector directs the vacuum to the C/C and the vents. Carefully disconnect the V/P line and hook up a vacuum gauge & start engine. If you have vacuum then you have a cracked or broken line some where else. To access the C/C, I have found out that it is way easier to take the time to remove the d/s battery & tray to work or trouble shoot the C/C motor.
The V/P main line connects at the pump via rubber 90* fittings which may be cracked or damaged also. The V/P and main line fittings are much easier to see and work on IF you have the d/s battery, battery tray & air intake pipe removed.
I used a very small amount of liquid soap on hoses when reinstalling them.

 

[jkh]

thanks crabman. I'll check that out. I had the dash half torn apart last year looking for a cracked line. never thought of checking the pump and mainline first