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Smarty Jr.

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Thermostat change?

Truck will not start without depressing accelerator pedal?

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Disclaimer: This is my first diesel.

I started at 2-default-default and ran for a spell. HOT! Holy crap, I would actually pop the hood to let the heat out while idling for a few minutes. Hopefully no irreparable damage occurred. I ran for a week like this.

I just returned from a jaunt up the interstate and back on 3-1-4, SO much cooler running. I don't have a pyro yet, that's next on the list.
Highly recommended first before the programmer to any new guys/gals to learn from that mistake

I am going to assume that the timing on 4 is the reason? If so, why would that mitigate the heat? Why would running defaults cause such temps?

Thanks for your input.

FYI- only mod is a S&B intake. Turbo back, pyro, and a dual filter kit are in the works. Then it's transmi$$ion time.
 
Did you drive the same route on both settings? Same Time of day? Same conditions? Drive the same way and same speed?'


SW3 is a lot more fuel than SW2. TM1 and default I *think* are the same but it I sonly really pertinent under 1800 rpms. Timing may be your difference there, I think 1 may be the most and 4 the least timing. More timing equals less EGT's but more heat in the engine which means better efficiency. As long as the coolant temp doesn't exceed normal there is no issue. The amount of radiant heat under hood has so many factors it is hard telling what you are describing, SOP meter is great for a feel of things but not very accurate for what matters.

On a hot summer day and running it hard it will be HOT under the hood, no matter the tuning. I have seen upwards of 140 degrees ambient under the hood with the engine off on a hot day after a hard pull, feels like a blast furnace just walking by.
 
Disclaimer: This is my first diesel.

I started at 2-default-default and ran for a spell. HOT! Holy crap, I would actually pop the hood to let the heat out while idling for a few minutes. Hopefully no irreparable damage occurred. I ran for a week like this.

I just returned from a jaunt up the interstate and back on 3-1-4, SO much cooler running. I don't have a pyro yet, that's next on the list.
Highly recommended first before the programmer to any new guys/gals to learn from that mistake

I am going to assume that the timing on 4 is the reason? If so, why would that mitigate the heat? Why would running defaults cause such temps?

Thanks for your input.

FYI- only mod is a S&B intake. Turbo back, pyro, and a dual filter kit are in the works. Then it's transmi$$ion time.

I ran a Smarty JR (SW-1 most of the time, SW-2 when towing - all defaults) for a couple of years (now using an S06 with UDC) and never paid attention to the underhood temps - only EGTs, Trans, and Coolant temps - all of which were fine. If you are concerned with underhood temps, you might consider a turbo sock or manifold blanket (which can reduce underhood temps and increase spool up). Just a thought.

George
 
Did you drive the same route on both settings? Same Time of day? Same conditions? Drive the same way and same speed?

Not the same. This is kind of why I'm curious, coming home from work goes like this - 10 minutes through the city, 20 minutes of 50 mph on a cty hwy., another 15 of stop and go through town to get home. When I get home I pop the hood and idle for 5-10 minutes. I usually run in tow mode. Easy driving.

After I changed the settings I took her out to the interstate and rode her pretty hard, on the fuel 70-80mph. Maybe 10° lower in temp. Cool as a cucumber.
 
on the fuel 70-80mph. Maybe 10° lower in temp. Cool as a cucumber.

That's a lot different driving scenario, at those speeds you're getting a ton of airlow through the radiator and underhood. With that, I'd wager the temp difference had nothing at all to do with the change in settings.
 
After I changed the settings I took her out to the interstate and rode her pretty hard, on the fuel 70-80mph. Maybe 10° lower in temp. Cool as a cucumber.

The temp difference is HUGE, 85 to 95 will make a large difference in heat soak. 15 minutes of stop and go in warm temps will heat everything to cooking point where running hard on the interstate will keep heat soak to a minimum. Just the way you are driving it and the conditions make that much difference.
 
Excellent, thank you for setting me straight! Apologies for not being more "scientific". I'm just (overly?) concerned about my first diesel truck (the nicest truck I've had). Thinking to myself I kinda jumped in w/o testing the water first.

I'm perusing older posts to learn what I can. I'm pretty sure I'll have more questions in the near future.

Thanks a ton!

Carry on.
 
You REALLY need to install a pyrometer (EGT gauge) before adding any programmers. I suggest that you install the pyrometer thermocouple BEFORE the turbocharger. That being said, the Smarty jr has been a good, at least to me, programmer. Another thing to be aware of is using any horsepower enhancement device with a stock automatic transmission. While the 48RE is a good transmission, it is really only rated for stock fueling unless built up with heavier components to handle the extra HP.
 
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