Here I am

Smarty, the new CaTCHER tool.

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bark stops here!

lighted rams head

The turbo bark I have is when the auto transmission shifts from 3rd to 4th pulling a heavy (13k) 5er and boost is over about 15#.



This I understand and this makes sense why one would want to have a ramp down. I was not thinking about this mode, but this would the the correct instance.



I would think that the smarty to compensate would have to know when the transmission would be shifting or be able to anticipate it if it could. :(
 
I would think that the smarty to compensate would have to know when the transmission would be shifting or be able to anticipate it if it could.



Exactly! The transmission is controlled by the PCM. No way for the ECM to know when it shifts. On the other side, one major complaint about the systems that do that defuelling before the transmission shifts is right that, defuelling... Ask the D-Max crowd.



The "ramp down feature". If my memory still serves me , I've worked on something like that several years ago. (You know when the first trucks got hydro locked letting off the throttle fast after the 1/4 mile... Back in early Y2K (?). )



I've never been able to ramp down slow enough to avoid turbo bark but at the same time FAST enough for emergency situations.



My reasoning was , what's more important, the turbo or my life?



I truly believe to have already explored almost everything one could think of with the ECM. Today you have what's reasonable, feasable, save, proven & tested in Smarty.



Marco
 
:{ :{ :{ :{

Well I just got a bunch of codes and had to tow the truck the last 2 blocks home this morning. P1688, P1693, P0252, P0253, Does this mean I need to plan a VP44 funeral? :(
 
I'm not SURE of the codes, but, Looks more like a CPS...





Merrick



EDIT: I stand somewhat corrected... I googled "P1688, P1693, P0252, P0253" (Just cut&Paste), and it came up with some previews all dealing with IP solenoid failures... .
 
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Mr. C said:
:{ :{ :{ :{

Well I just got a bunch of codes and had to tow the truck the last 2 blocks home this morning. P1688, P1693, P0252, P0253, Does this mean I need to plan a VP44 funeral? :(





no doubt about it, are you going to replace it yourself?
 
Bob Wagner said:
no doubt about it, are you going to replace it yourself?



Absolutely gonna do it myself, looking for a source now. As a side note anyone got up close and personal with a hot rod vp44?Would that play nice with my Smarty?



Also I thought a while back I read someone had found and changed an electronic module in the vp44, is it possible to repair the offending "internal IP controller" that rudely interupted my ride home?
 
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Turbo bark and the Smarty

While towing my 5er I have for a long time avoided turbo bark by: Accelerating in Drive (no overdrive) until RPM is above 2000 or even 2500. Then shift into overdrive. The transmission shifts smoothly with no turbo bark. It's like manually staying in drive and shifting up after you have gained good speed and higher rpm. It works for me. ---Leroy D. :p :p
 
leroy D,



I generally leave it out of O/D completely (3. 54) when towing.



I had not considered an emergency condition when the d3 to d4 shift has to happen without defueling regardless of blowing the turbo in case of safety (I actually do not think I have ever been in that situation). Therefore, I accept that possibility and will abide by doing the defueling myself in my own driving style. Consider it layed to rest on my part.



Thanks for the replies and discussion though :D



Bob Weis
 
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Any of you auto trans guys experiencing higher trans temps since installing the smarty??

Mine have been extremely high since putting the smarty on. In stop and go traffic I would normally see 160-180°, now I am seeing 180 - 200+°... . got me a little worried.

The posts on the turbo bark make sense, guess I'll just go to stock when I tow my fiver!
 
Dave, smarty will have nothing to do with the transmission temperature. A tight torque convertor will.



I have been running a DTT 91% for going on 6 years now.



I was always advised to kick the transmission into neutral when sitting in stop and go traffic and at stop lights.



T/c's can create lots of heat and amsoil will run cooler. Even consider a double deep pan.
 
The only possible way I could think of any box adding temperature to aa transmission is if it raises idle speed. This will obviously heat fluid faster.



I have found that with added power, the trans get warmer due to more power flowing through an unlocked convertor. When you stop, this heat has not been expelled.



This is what happens to me around town. Hiway temps are the same due to that lockup clutch!



Dave
 
You have 20* higher temps because the power comes on hard and fast and heats the trans fluid up before lockup...



If the power came on slower, the trans temp wouldn't come up as high, as evident with the OE software...





Merrick
 
P0216 code

Is it possible to have a P0216 code and not have a bad injection pump? Here is my story! On a trip last week with Smarty on #5 and pulling my 5r up the hill from the Dalles toward Dufur, I had a dead pedal for about 3 seconds. The engine kept running and when I got to Dufur, I checked the codes and had a P0216. I cleared the code, put it back to stock and took the truck back to the Dodge dealer in the Dalles. He checked it out and said the codes were cleared 4 starts ago, but it seemed to be running OK. I told him I cleared the code. I left the ECM stock and drove another 3800 miles, over many passes in Utah, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon & Washington, without another failure. I didnt have the guts to turn up the Smarty again, being so far from home, but I loved the way it performed. Is it possible to push the pump too far and get a momentary failure?
 
P0216 Says "Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure" and in the Description it further says "High fuel supply restriction, low fuel pressure or possible wrong or incorrectly installed pump keyway".



High fuel supply restriction, is probably your culprit. This is one of the reasons that when I tow, I use my low setting of 1x1 or 2x1 with the Edge-Comp. It is also why I have my fuel inlet at the V. P. drilled out to 3/8 I. D. minimum. This allows for greater volumn potential with no restriction.



With the Smarty I suspect you were requesting too much fuel with not enough capabality for volumn flow.



I have not towed yet with my Smarty, but I know that when I do, I will be on the lower setting. ;)
 
Mundgyver, you are probably right. I have the vulcan big line kit with the 1/2 line with the Lift Pump down on the frame. Maybe the pump is starting to go. I dont have a Comp, but am going to try the Smarty on #3 or #5 again and see if I can get a failure, only this time closer to home. Thanks for the info!
 
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Davidson said:
Is it possible to have a P0216 code and not have a bad injection pump? Here is my story! On a trip last week with Smarty on #5 and pulling my 5r up the hill from the Dalles toward Dufur, I had a dead pedal for about 3 seconds. The engine kept running and when I got to Dufur, I checked the codes and had a P0216. I cleared the code, put it back to stock and took the truck back to the Dodge dealer in the Dalles. He checked it out and said the codes were cleared 4 starts ago, but it seemed to be running OK. I told him I cleared the code. I left the ECM stock and drove another 3800 miles, over many passes in Utah, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon & Washington, without another failure. I didnt have the guts to turn up the Smarty again, being so far from home, but I loved the way it performed. Is it possible to push the pump too far and get a momentary failure?





That was how mine started too... ... Be prepared in the future to replace the pump.
 
Mine did the same thing. It lasted 8 months giving me a dead pedal at least once every two weeks until it finally started loosing power. I changed the pump and WOW, I never would have guessed how much power I had lost.
 
480RUGER said:
Mine did the same thing. It lasted 8 months giving me a dead pedal at least once every two weeks until it finally started loosing power. I changed the pump and WOW, I never would have guessed how much power I had lost.



It doesn't seem to have the power it once had. The mechanic said it was still under warranty even though I moved the LP to the frame and installed the Vulcan big line kit. Did you get the P0216 code and did you change it yourself? I dont think the Smarty had anything to do with the dead pedal.
 
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