So I need new Injectors. What, why and when?

[Bouma]

My 2006 has 104,000 miles on it. I purchased the truck new. From day one I would always buy my diesel fuel at either truck stops or stations that I knew (just by watching the number of diesel) went through lots of diesel. I would never get it at the small station that doesn't sell much of in in fear of getting bad fuel. With that said I would use Stanadyne additive in the truck also. I also change my fuel filter every 5,000 and 10,000 miles with a Fleetguard Stratapore filter.



So with that said, I thought I had done everything I could to save my injectors? At 104,000 it makes a guy wonder if I ****** a bunch of money away on additives and fuel filter?



The truck had a slight stumble at an idle and would smoke. I have the truck at a shop that only does diesel injection work, they are the Bosch distributor also. They have a injector test cell and were able to see that 3 of my injectors were as they called it "dribblers". I am having them replace all of them with new OEM injectors.



So going forward, should I continue doing what I was doing? What can I do to extend the life of them? Is age as big of factor as mileage? Obviously I don't put a ton of miles on the truck, I have a 2009 as a company truck. I appreciate any feedback.



P. S. The truck is stock other than exhaust.

 

[EMAC2]

I would ask the guys at the Bosch shop to give you an idea why they became "dribblers". Maybe they could shed some light on this. They are seven years old and not run often - no telling though. Could be emulsified fuel that rusted the tips, gummed up from sitting up, no way to tell at this point... ... .

 

[BLNRAY]

maybe i am just lucky but my 03 has 391566 miles on original injectors,i did change the tips about 20000 mi ago. my truck has had a fass 150 filter/pump on it almost since new,oem filter eleminated. the only additive i run is lucas,and power service biocide,truck doesent get many miles anymore and i have a 74 gal transfer flow tank. i buy a lot of fuel at walmart,dont think i have ever found maybe a teaspoonful of water at filter changes

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I suggest using a 2 or 3 micron final filter; the stock filter is 7-10 microns. I don't use additives. Also Bosch has made improvements and the newest injectors would be the ones to get.

 

[JJPage]

"dribblers" ??? Exactly how was that determined?

 

[cerberusiam]

Probably the best thing you can do is add a 2-3 um filter between the OE filter and the CP-3 and ad a quality water separator between the OE filter and the tank. Solid filtration is a biggy and 3 um or less is the desired level need to keep wear to a minimum in the HPCR system. Water separation is just as big a deal and based on experience the single pass filter is not adequate at times, especially where you are. You can buy fuel at the highest volume place you want but if the truck does not get run much you still run the risk of water causing early failure.

Take a look at the tests on the fuel quality then talk to the guys that pick fuel up and deliver it from the pipe lines. If that doesn't convince you that additives are not only a good idea but a definite need, then do not use them. Cummins guys swear by Power Service and every shop I have dealt with recommends it as standard practice. If you think Stanadyne is good then stay with it. I use PS and another light oil for lube and has worked for me so far. I have friends thta swear by Stanadyne also.

 

[Bouma]

So are you thinking like the Glacier Diesel kit? This adds a 2 micron fleetguard filter.

 

[Bouma]

"dribblers" ??? Exactly how was that determined?

They have a test cell that they connect the injector to. They can run the injector through many cycles and pressures. They can map the spray patterns and amount of fuel being delivered. I don't know enough about this to really speak to exactly what makes them a dribbler. From what I understand I am getting too much fuel from these injectors at any given rpm. However most noticeable at idle. They said they have seen this many times over.

 

[Bouma]

Probably the best thing you can do is add a 2-3 um filter between the OE filter and the CP-3 and ad a quality water separator between the OE filter and the tank. Solid filtration is a biggy and 3 um or less is the desired level need to keep wear to a minimum in the HPCR system. Water separation is just as big a deal and based on experience the single pass filter is not adequate at times, especially where you are. You can buy fuel at the highest volume place you want but if the truck does not get run much you still run the risk of water causing early failure.

Take a look at the tests on the fuel quality then talk to the guys that pick fuel up and deliver it from the pipe lines. If that doesn't convince you that additives are not only a good idea but a definite need, then do not use them. Cummins guys swear by Power Service and every shop I have dealt with recommends it as standard practice. If you think Stanadyne is good then stay with it. I use PS and another light oil for lube and has worked for me so far. I have friends thta swear by Stanadyne also.

What kind of light oil? I thought that was a no no in a HPCR? I know guys that would run a quart of transmission fluid in the older trucks and 7. 3 powerstokes.

 

[HBarlow]

I don't trust independent diesel injector shops any more than used car salesmen or tire salesmen. They are in the business of selling injectors. When they inspect/test injectors they are always going to find bad ones.

 

[jjdiesel]

So are you thinking like the Glacier Diesel kit? This adds a 2 micron fleetguard filter.

That's what I've been using on mine... . works great, very reasonably priced.

 

[Bouma]

I don't trust independent diesel injector shops any more than used car salesmen or tire salesmen. They are in the business of selling injectors. When they inspect/test injectors they are always going to find bad ones.

Harvey,

I totally agree with this statement. However the guy doing the work is actually family. I am getting this all done at cost parts and labor. He has worked there for 15 years and is helping me out.

 

[Bouma]

I don't trust independent diesel injector shops any more than used car salesmen or tire salesmen. They are in the business of selling injectors. When they inspect/test injectors they are always going to find bad ones.

Harvey,

I have read multiple posts of your that state your great luck with the life of injectors. Please share how you did this?

 

[cerberusiam]

I don't trust independent diesel injector shops any more than used car salesmen or tire salesmen.

Bouma, try to ignore the psycho babble nonsense some people spout for no discernible reason. This particular source as stated that he doesn't believe Cummins uses Bosch HPCR fuel injection systems on their engines and any information pertaining to the system is invalid. This is just another attempt to objuscate the truth and civer up the lack or real knowledge. Treat it like any other unsolicited advertisement that starts with "You may have already won... ... ".





All shops that deal with HPCR injection componeents are independent. Bosch doesn't maintain any factory test and repair facilities that deal directly with the public. They are a mass reman or manufacturer of parts and systems. They will grant a certification to a business if they spend enough money but they retain no liability or control over the quality of the results from these shops. We have NO choice but to rely on independent shops for these types of tests and guidance. All you can do is hope they aren't looking to gouge you, are adequately trained with the machinery and what the results are telling them. Sounds like you have done your homework and they are telling you that their tests jive with what you see for symptoms. Best you can do without spending a chunk of change.



The Glacier Diesel kit for the 3 um filter is a good piece. You could probably source all the pieces cheaper yourself if desired. Depends on what functionla utility you can derive from the cost of the kit. I *think* they have the other setup also that would add more water seperation, or something that would work. You may have to call and see.



If you are running any additives you are essentially running light petroleum distillate oils. You can supplement it with OptiLube, Stanadyne Lubricity, or even TC-W3 2 stroke oil and when it comes to burning it at +1000 degrees it would be so hard to quantify the differences no one has even bothered to try. OptiLube performed better that 2 stroke oil in wear and lubricity tests. Take a look at the MSDS, compare it to TC-W3 2 stroke, PS, etc, and you decide what is good or bad.



Bottom line is filtration won't do it all in every case. The quality of fuel varies so widely across the country you cannot even begin to judge what works for someone in the southwest when you live in north central.



You have to take what everybody claims to have done and used or not used, how far they claim they have run, you even have to factor in the BS claims that are so far in the weeds to be area 51 stuff, do your own research to determine what makes sense, shake it all up and be happy with your choices. If it works you call it good, if not back to the drawing board. I have personally compared notes with 5 or 6 people that have run anywhere from 300k to 600k on these HPCR engines. Unanimous decision was the additives and filtration are a great benefit. All ran slightly different types of additives, all ran different ranges of miles in chunks, all used their trucks differently. No one could tell which additve or mixture was a clear winner. All were happy that the worst failures they had seen were injector solenoids dying in the 300-400k range.



YMMV.

 

[cerberusiam]

Harvey,



I have read multiple posts of your that state your great luck with the life of injectors. Please share how you did this?

Maybe his real name is Joe Isuzu??

 

[mjones0304]

Please dont go with DDP injectors if you go with new ones. I bought 50hp new injectors from them in 2012 as prevenative maintenance at 155,000 miles truck was running good ( yea that was stupid I know ). After injector only no other mods truck ran like crap pouring black smoke out the pipe and fogging at idle and surging like a bronking bull..consulted many mechanics and they said 50hp should not smoke much if any and definatly not fog at idle. Called DDP got the runaround for about a month replaced every sensor and electronic on engine$$$$$ retorqed cross tubes twice with no help. I requested stock injectors from DDP just hoping to get my truck back I was so sick and wished I had never changed them.DDP dont make stock injectors but they sent me what they considered stock...well smoking did tame down but will still pour black smoke on full acceleration and the surging did calm down but still present. Now it has a bad injector knock that concerns me and bad vibration from 1100 to 1800 rpms. I hope it dont blow up because of bad injectors I sure cant afford a rebuild or new injectors. DDP customer service sucks also by the way. I dont feel like fighting with DDP customer service again so I guess I will drive it till it breaks...im getting mad again just remembering all ive gone through thousands spent on crank sensor, cam sensor, cascade flow valve, rail pressure sensor, pressure relief valve, fuel pump, tps sensor, and much more that I have forgot about.

 

[Prairie Dog]

That's what I've been using on mine... . works great, very reasonably priced.

Me too. It's a very high quality kit and fits perfectly.

 

[rscurtis]

And it's complete- you don't have to chase down any missing parts or fittings. I have one on my signature truck after the factory filter. It also offers the added security that when you change the factory filter, there is no chance of any contamination escaping into the fuel system- the GDP filter will catch it.