Some motor questions

[GIT-R-DONE]

I need some info:



Truck is a 91 Intercooled Cummins 4x4 with 306 K on it.



I decided to check the KDP and ordered the tab repair kit. When I pulled off the crank pulley, I marked it so I knew where exactly it went back on, but, I then decided to get it sand blasted and hence, cleaned off the mark I had put on it for re-installation.



Question # 1, since there is no sensor on it and it does not appear to be balanced, does it matter how it goes back on?



Question # 2 involves whether or not they make a power steering seal as this one leaks all the fluid out at the seal where the steering column goes into it. Do they make a repair for this or am I going to have to buy or find another one?



Question # 3 What other turbo's will bolt onto this truck? There is alot of play in the end shaft in all directions and am going to replace it, but dont know what to buy for it. The only other mods really to the motor are going to be some POD's and an aftermarket air cleaner, ie, AFE. What would best suit my needs?



Question # 4 Do they still make the spring for on the pump ( as shown where the screwdriver is ) as this one has alot of wear on it.

 

[Greenleaf]

Yep! WE got you covered!! In a Big way. You came to the RIGHT SPOT.



I can answer all. However, I will not. You'll recieve lots-o-replies



#1. Install the crank damper anyway you like.



GL

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

I also wanted to know what THIS is... located bolted to the drivers side fender behind the battery ?

 

[ARhine]

Thats the chassis computer. The engine is not computer controlled but the cruise, charging system, and a few other things are tied into it.



2: How many miles are on that steering box? any slack in it? Mine is shot so it is going to PSC for a complete rebuild with new bearings and seals.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/

 

[bgilbert]

#3: hx35, hx40, could also send your turbo to these people, www.htturbo.com for a hybrid or rebuild.

#4: VE Pump Breakover Spring Bosch part number 1-464-651-430. Once removed you'll see that the guide pin that the spring rides against is near worn through. You can purchase a new throttle lever ~$50, or weld up the pin to add material, then use a die grinder to smooth it down. This is what has been done to two of my pumps, thanks GL, KTA.



That PCM is very important. Be very careful and caring with it. Give it a big hug and kiss and reinstall safely.



As far as what will suit your needs, it depends on your intended use of this truck.

 

[Greenleaf]

You bet Bill!



That spring will wear INTO the pin and cause throttle slack... . = not good. The worn pin is built back up and turned down so that the spring will JUST fit down over the pin when the spring is installed on the lever.



You want zero throttle play/slop. You loose top end when you have . 005"+. 008"+. 003"+. 007 slop in all the pieces/parts that work tohether.

 

[Paychk]

I also wanted to know what THIS is... located bolted to the drivers side fender behind the battery ?

That is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), it controls the following; alternator, tach output, cruise control, intake heaters, fault code output, overdrive solenoid & lamp, wait to start, water in fuel, check engine lamps.



It is getting harder to buy them at auto stores, most now a days want to send yours off to be rebuilt and then returned.

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

#

#4: VE Pump Breakover Spring Bosch part number 1-464-651-430. Once removed you'll see that the guide pin that the spring rides against is near worn through. You can purchase a new throttle lever ~$50, or weld up the pin to add material, then use a die grinder to smooth it down. This is what has been done to two of my pumps



.

Does Bosch have a web site to order this from or where would I order this part from?



I took the pump apart tonite ( hope I can remember how it went back together :-laf ) and the pin was wore at least half way thru. The spring is in as bad of shape. I can weld the pin and regrind it, but I doubt I can do that too with the spring. Just not sure where to get the spring from. Thanks

 

[TKingsbury]

That is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), it controls the following; alternator, tach output, cruise control, intake heaters, fault code output, overdrive solenoid .

In his truck the overdrive solenoid is his right arm :-laf Your steering box looks like it's sweating Gatorade and was dusted with powdered sugar. Yikes.

Travis. .

 

[bgilbert]

Does Bosch have a web site to order this from or where would I order this part from?



I took the pump apart tonite ( hope I can remember how it went back together :-laf ) and the pin was wore at least half way thru. The spring is in as bad of shape. I can weld the pin and regrind it, but I doubt I can do that too with the spring. Just not sure where to get the spring from. Thanks

Call Scheid Diesel 800-669-1593 and give em that Bosch part number, they'll ship. Or any other Bosch authorized distributor etc. I don't know of any Bosch online order sites.

 

[Greenleaf]

Two places I order from are;



www.DIESELS-R-US.com (Northwest Fuel Injection)



-- email address removed -- (PurrFormance Diesel)

 

[1stgen4evr]

Repairing the spring on the throttle is less an issue than you might think. It is there to keep you from jambing the internals when you floorboard the throttle. Get an uninsulated wire connector the right size to slide on the end of the spring. Carefully pry the spring out so that you can slide the connector up on the spring. The over size body of the connector will not fall in the wear grove and it will also keep the spring from wearing the rest of the way in two. It is not necessary to crimp the connector, it will stay in place.



Old faithfull (500k miles) has that fix for the last 200k. Working fine. In fact, mine had worn off at the contact point but the connector solved the problem.



This is also an item that you can check when you are looking at a used truck to determine actual miles. The spring will wear through at about 300 to 350k miles. If other things on the truck don't match that, someone is trying to hide true miles or the pump has had service.



James



Edit:

Oops, I reread your last post and you already have it apart. Might as well put the new stuff on. The 'fix' I used is a two cent, ten second repair that perhaps someone else might use.

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

Well, today at work I got the pin welded and we tried to weld the spring as well , just to see what would happen, didn't work. As soon as we touched the spring with heat, it broke. Got one on order now, so not a problem.



Thanks to all for your help, I am sure I will be asking more questions as time goes on. I have 2 first gen's under restoration now in the garage, so , I'll be back.



Thanks to for the links and part numbers, really helps out.

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

How about the power steering seal? Can these be replaced as well. Question # 2 ( I believe ) in the original post.

 

[MMiller]

You can get a seal kit for the input end of the box. Has this truck ever been offroaded, or 4 wheeled? Or maybe a farmers work truck where he chored in pastures and fields a lot? The reason I ask, is whenever I wheeled my 93 hard and dropped it in a hole, the box would leak out the input shaft, and could not be resealed. I think the internals would get tweaked, and then a seal would not hold. *I* would not waste my time replacing the seal, get a remaned unit. Some people do have luck resealing them.



Michael

 

[Greenleaf]

I have resealed some and have held. There is a LONG post somewhere here on this site as well as the other one about how to with part number for the kit.



Basic... .



You pull the coupling off the stub.

Clean clean clean clean the area

You remove the snap ring. You get a new one.

You drill the seal and insert a couple small screws.

Yank it out.

Let the oil drain out.

install new seal

reverse order to assemble

clean again

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

I got this far with the steering box, what comes off next? The snap ring is off, and appears maybe a special tool to take off the rest of the front to get to the seal? Dont know, thats why I am asking the experts here... . :-laf

 

[Greenleaf]

Clean it. Then clean it again.



What you see is the seal. That is what you drill a few small holes into and insert a couple sheet metal screws into the steel housing of the seal. Work it out with side cutters by pulling out on the screw.



You will loose a good bit of oil. Let her drain out. Refill with Valvoline Synpower Synthetic PS fluid. It will mix just fine with what oil remains.



A clean cloth is used to wick out the oil that stops flowing. Wick out enough oil to clear the seal depth. I "think" I put some red lock-tite on the OD of the seal. Or something similar. Don't get anything inside the gear box. Dirt, sealant, metal shavings, pieces of old seal etc.