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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) soon to be a 12 Valver...???

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 95 crew cab conversion????????

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Help?

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Currently driving a 3rd gen. Wife wants a divorce and I can't afford to keep the truck.



WIthin a few months to a year I will be on the market for another cummins and for my $$ the 12V seems to be the best bet.



I'll be wanting a dually 5 spd club cab.



WHat all should I look for... good, bad, and ugly with these trucks? The 3rd gen is my first cummins and since I bought it new I did not have any problems to look for.



Any and all info is much appreciated... I want to do as much homework before buying.



THANKS!

Jason
 
Well, sorry to hear why you have to sell the truck ... women.



I'd say to look for a 1997 if possible. Look for or to see if:



- The "Killer Dowel Pin" have been fixed (Plenty of info on this in this forumn)

If not and you buy the truck, get it fixed (tabbed) ASAP.

- Look for massive oil leak on front and bottom of engine ... if there is a lot the KDP

might have struck that truck.

- Check the slop in the steering. See if the truck wonders all over the road (another

expense you will have to deal with).

- See if the person has modified the truck (i. e. a fuel plate installed). This can be

detected by seeing if the factory brakeoff screw is still in the top left side of the

AFC housing (driver's side back of the engine). If it has been modified, it may have

been beat to hell (the truck that is).

- Check the BRAKES! See if they fade real bad. could have problems with the

proportioning valve on the top of the rear axle (above the pumpkin).

- Oh yeah, if it has been modified by the owner, see if the catalytic converter is still

on the truck, you will need this possibly to pass inspection.

- Check the tires for uneven ware on front (bad ball joints). Check the front axle for

any leakage. (passenger side is not to bad to fix, the driver side is a nightmare

to fix the seal).

- Check A/C (as with any car), since your down there in that steam bath state.

- See if the owner ever changed the Overflow valve.

- Smell for raw diesel, if you smell it, the fuel return line will most likly need to be

replaced.

- Check out this site: http://www.dodgeram.org/ It will give you GREAT tips

and locations to where things are on the engine.
 
If you're going to keep a manual, great, because the pump in the 96 to 98's is the big one, the 215hp pump. Grande' fuel potential very easily & cheaply. Basicallly you can exceed the limits of the clutch with only a fuel plate ... what are they, $225 or less now?





Forrest
 
Thanks for the info. This will help me with my research. I wish I could get it now... since I;ve had a cummins for a year or so now I don;t want to be without one. BUT I guess that's the way it goes sometimes.



BUT I'll be 'rattlin' again before too long.
 
Thanks Vaughn. I wish I had the $$ now but I need to get rid of my truck first... bad thing is we've only had it a year so I still owe $35K and no one wants to take over payments when for the same or little more they could have a similar truck brand new. So unfortunately I will have to pay it off and then sell it... losing a few grand but still coming out ok. Though it may be a couple years before I can get another truck... it is on my to do list for certain.
 
FATCAT said:
Check the front axle for any leakage. (passenger side is not to bad to fix, the driver side is a nightmare to fix the seal). QUOTE]



I wouldn't say it's a nightmare. About 3 hrs of labor... . working on mine right now. Though it is a PITA for $15 worth of seals!
 
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