Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Sounds Sick or What??

[NScott]

I recently bought a 98' 12V 3500 C&C 2WD 5Spd that I did'nt know anything about beforehand. I discovered oil in the radiator and posted that on a forum and most people seemed to think that it was either a oil cooler leak or a head gasket?? Well, I am always one that wants to check everything over before I start turning wrenches so we ran a cooling system pressure check on the thing and pumped the pressure up to 18 psi and left it for 4 days!! It only lost 4 psi in the 4 days! That could have been from around my pump or its valve. I really don't think the cooling system leaked down. The head had been off before I bought it because it had been vated as there was no paint left on it. Also it doesn't bubble in the radiator or build up excessive pressure when it is running. Could it be that the oil was left in the cooling system from the previous repair?? Maybe it was never flushed out ?? Anyway, that brings me to the next question--- the engine "sounds sick". I have another 96 12V and it sounds totally different. This one sort of splutters when ideling and when you rev it it sort of stumbles but not completely. I have tried to think of everything-- valves adjusted to tight?--pump timing to far advanced? I haven't done anything to it yet, what are some of your ideas?????

 

[bighammer]

Could be slipped (retarded) timing on the older truck(I'm guessing-- That's my retarded answer )





Any way to clean out what oil you can from the cooling system (flush & refill) and see if it comes back? Is it using oil? How much how often.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

The sputtering could be fuel pressure or it's delivery/return.



My OEM stainless steel line was seeping... . and only reared its ugly head when I went to change out my pre-screen and main fuel filter... . the worn out LP couldn't get prime.



I bought a brandy-new LP and it couldn't get prime! So I replaced the SS line with some hand bent steel/diesel-rated rubber sections and it has been fine ever since.



Matt

 

[Deezul1]

I think a good cooling system flush is in order, check with a shop for the best way to get oil out of there and see if it comes back. Prolly left from when head was off before.

 

[gcorron]

There are a lot of ways to check the head gasket without removing the head. Compression, leak down test, etc. .



Snap-on and Mac both sell some pretty good kits with colored liquids which will tell you, and they are very easy to use, and not terribly expensive.



There is a way to do this, only the tiniest of leaks will evade this process, and costs you a bottle of pop. There was a guy who helped develop Cats training program turned me onto this long ago, it is no longer taught... ... ... . coz they don't sell 'spensive tools this way, but sure worth passing along.



A head leak will pass products of combustion into the radiator. Take a clear bottle (I like to use plastic Pepsi bottles - but take your pick) and fill it with water. put the overflow tube from your radiator (this gets semi creative with overflow bottles, but usually 1/4" fuel line will work well) into the bottle. Start your engine.



This works better under load, but not possible for vehicle. Watch the bottle, it will bubble for a few minutes and at some point 5-10 minutes normally, will stop... ..... now watch the bottle closely.



If the bubbles start again AFTER STOPPING, you have a head leak, usually gasket, but can be cracked head.



the tools Snap on and Mac sell use colored fluids to do this, and are a bit more meticulous about the products of combustion - IOW they will detect a smaller leak.



Anyway, this works fairly well, if you have now bubbles, you don't have a head problem. If you do, it still COULD be something else, but usually isn't.



I'd flush the radiator really well (maybe have a Jiffy Lube type place do it) and keep my eye on it. You can also try the old "Bottle test" for peace of mind.



George

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

A company called Wynns used to make(maybe they still do) a product designed to be used with their flush machines that was used to remove oil from the cooling system. Antifreeze doesn't usually dissolve petroleum products and standard flush kits are designed to remove rust and mineral deposits inside the engine. Regular flush probably won't do you much good for removing oil. Try asking at a couple of Auto Shops for the oil type flush.

Good Luck,

Joe