South Bend Clutch Kudos

[GTOWag]

Kudos to South Bend Cutch. I can’t think of another business that strives for such great customer satisfaction and has such an outstanding customer support reputation. Peter Pyfer and Manseil are two outstanding individuals who helped me out immensely with some clutch problems I had recently. They both went the extra mile to make sure I was a happy camper, and it was very much appreciated. If you happen to be in the South Bend area, (actually Mishawaka,) stop by and visit their third generation clutch business and get a grand tour of their facility. You will be impressed!!



Thank You South Bend Clutch

 

[JBonpua]

SBC not only make one of the best performing clutch in the business, Peter and the crew will take off the shirt of their back to satisfy their customers.

 

[SierraRam]

I agree totally, I will always use them due to there great knowledge and support.

 

[AEdelheit]

I actually did go to there shop and meet them personally when Valet parking in Chicago destroyed my stock clutch and I limped it to Mishawaka and had a 3250 put in, I was sooooo happy with there customer service that I got Peter and Manseil $20 Hooter gift cards, Grat people!

 

[Sean Flanagan]

I had an OFe in a '98 and it worked great. Easy to use with good holding power.

Now I have an OFe in my 07. It holds great but it is really grabby. Very difficult to reverse, especially uphill. SBC says my G56 input shaft is bad. It was checked OK when the clutch went in. It worked perfect before the clutch change.



I am not too happy. Now my truck drives like an old tractor and I'm stuck with it unless I pay somebody even more money.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Sean,

My '01 and my '04. 5 both have NV5600 transmission with South Bend OFE clutches. They are both difficult to back when towing trailers, but it is not because of the South Bend. The '01 has 3. 55 rear end and the '04. 5 4. 10, which would make you think that the '04. 5 would back easier; not so. Part of the issue is the reverse ratio in the transmission, they are way too fast. I do not need to go fast in reverse and if I did I would simply rev the engine. As is I do not need anything above idle, unless backing up a grade. The second issue is that the engine is computer controlled and when it senses the idle speed dropping it responds by giving more fuel which compounds the problem. It is actually best to give just a little throttle when engaging the clutch in forward or reverse, that takes the computer trying to maintain idle out of the equation.

By the way, I bought both of these trucks used and they both had aftermarket clutches in them that were not South Bend and they were still hard to back up.

Steved,

Please explain what a "dragging" OFE is? Me no understand.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[NIsaacs]

I am going to guess that maybe the dragging is in reference to the clutch disc not releasing completely, with hard shifting from a stopped and out of gear scenario. Sometimes this can be a slight mismatch of the clutch disc splined hub with the wear of the splined input shaft. If the new clutch disc has a slightly longer hub, either front or rear then the original, the disc will not slide freely and cause it to drag on the flywheel side with the clutch disengaged. This issue is very critical on a twin disc setup. Usually the only fix is a new input shaft.



Nick

 

[GTOWag]

Blacksheepdiesel:



If you have four wheel drive, shifting into 4 low eliminates any backing problems even up hill. If you don't have 4WD the only solution is to slip the clutch or back up faster. The South Bend Street Double Disk clutch does not have this problem to the same degree. It is still there but not near as bad as the OFE.



I also agree that using Pennzoil Synchromesh is probably the best lube to use. It has the Mopar spec right on the bottle and price wise is around $7. 00 / qt and is available at most auto parts stores.

 

[SierraRam]

The clutch was fine one day, and not the next. It won't completely release... I'm forced to either ride the clutch at a stop light or find a gear by starting in 5th. The install was done correctly, I was there... this happened after the fact. Trying to grab a gear from a stop, you can actually feel the synchronizers spinning.



I am completely fine with the grabby clutch, knew that going in... I actually like the engagement.

Definately not a normal issue with thses clutched. Did you upgrade the hydraulics when you did the clutch?

 

[GTOWag]

I would give Peter at South Bend a call. If there is anything at all that he can do for you, he will do it. Why it would change suddenly is strange unless something went bad with the pressure plate. I replaced my hydraulic system with South Bends also, which gives you adjustment capability for how far off the floor the clutch will start to engage. I doubt if that would help you in this case, but may be worth a try. I had a pressure plate crack on me years ago and caused similar problems... . give Peter a call.

 

[JDubien]

Steved,



It sounds as though you may have the same problem I do. I'm on my 2nd OFE kit though and now find myself in the same situation again with the clutch dragging. The first kit lasted about 40k before I just couldn't fight it anymore but the second kit only has 15k and I know its just a matter of time now.



After talking with SBC today, it sounds like I have a warped disk again. I run my smarty on level 9 normally and level 3 when towing. I don't do burn outs or race or sled pull. I daily drive with heavy acceleration and I tow a toy hauler weighing around 16000 lbs. I was told today this clutch (OFE) is not being recommended for this type of use any further because of this issue. It was recommended that I purchase the street dual disk which would be more than sufficient for my uses. I'm really not into changing my clutch out every year or two, I've spent some bucks on this issue and the thought of throwing more at it doesn't excite me.



I welcome any feedback from the TDR family and would greatly appreciate it. Hijacking the original poster's thread was not intended but given the topic, it seemed appropriate.



Thanks,

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Blacksheepdiesel:



I also agree that using Pennzoil Synchromesh is probably the best lube to use. It has the Mopar spec right on the bottle and price wise is around $7. 00 / qt and is available at most auto parts stores.

"Throw me under the bus" if you wish but IMHO this is much better. Even has the Chrysler P/N w/ their specs.







AMSOIL - Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (MTF)

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I have an old SBC Con-O that was rated for 400HP/900 Ft lbs. I dyno'd 446HP/959 Ft lbs and it does not slip

 

[South Bend Clutch]

Talked with SBC today, mainly to diagnose the issue. There are several possibilities (some related to age/mileage of the truck): bad pilot bearing, bad input bearing, worn pivot points on the fork, and a warped clutch disc. They want it disassembled to find the issue. I had it to the install place last spring, and they saw the issue I was describing. The warped disc can be caused from slipping the clutch. Of all those possible issues (short of something new developing) everything was replaced and. there was no indications of impending issues... I guess it came on so quick that I don't think it could be a "wear" issue, such as bearings.



And for the record, (the best I can remember) the issue started sometime after a 3rd gear start to merge into rush hour traffic (the NV5600 and 4. 10s is a slow combo). At least that's the only time I could point to that was out of the "ordinary daily drive" that week. I don't remember slipping the clutch, but slipping seems to be the main cause of an OFe warping. But I guess the main question is how much slipping is harmful? I always thought some slippage was expected, and perceived "slipping the clutch" as riding it such as in drag racing or just letting it slip uncontrolled (overcoming the friction). I mean, you got to slip a clutch some to do any maneuvering, such as for a trailer as an example. So how much is considered normal?



So who knows what they will find... I may be buying a clutch, among other things. If it comes to that, I may just sell the truck and try something else (as in another brand). I do feel bad as I told them it happened in stock configuration, but later remembered the entire reason I needed a clutch was because of my SmartyJR slipping my faulty OE clutch (which had over 180k on it at that point, so its not like i am hard on a clutch).



They did indicate the OFe has been redesigned, and the Fe side is now multiple pieces instead of a solid disc to address potential warping.

Just saw this and this post looked familiar to a conversation I had on Tuesday. Pretty sure it was you Steve. Gosh, after a 20 or so minute phone call discussing all the possibilities with your truck and the fact of having over 200,000 miles, it is almost impossible to pin point the problem over the phone. You originally purchased the clutch kit only a year and a half ago. I decided to send out a whole new clutch kit as well as a new flywheel and new clutch fork so we could cover all the bases on our end at no charge to you. I called your installer Lloyd at Mid Atlantic to make sure he calls me when the transmission was removed so we could together go over everything to make sure all was good for you. And as I told you and him that we were going to have Lloyd install all the new components even if the problem was not with the clutch at no cost to you for the parts. Then you state above that you may have to buy a clutch (maybe another brand) or trade the truck off. Sometimes I wonder why I bother.





Peter

 

[steved]

After thinking about this, I retract my statements and apologize... it isn't worth the headache.

I will be returning your clutch kit upon receipt so that you aren't bothered. I did not call to get free parts, but only to diagnose the issue. I had fully intended to buy everything as I did not purchase the majority of those parts to begin with... again, I wasn't looking for handouts, only information.

I will make sure to include a check to cover your shipping.

Thanks for your time,
Steve

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

I know from personal experience that Peter is a stand up guy and goes way beyond the second mile for customer service issues. The above posts prove it once again.

Sorry you got burnt Peter.

And this whole thread started as kudos to SBC...

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[steved]

He did not get burnt... I made no attack on SBC or Peter, but obviously it was and will be misconstrued that way... and his post hit a nerve, I don't like being portrayed as a "user"... the reason I came unglued.



As for "buying a clutch", I am not one that expects "warranty" work on things I break; and had already planned to buy anything sent that wasn't needed, or buy all of it if it was determine to have been something *I* did that caused the issue... I am not looking for a handout. I did not install a new flywheel, I did not install a ball bearing, I did not install a new fork... so why should I expect them for free??



The simple fix is to return the parts he is sending me (there are two sides here... you are only seeing his). I was the one who asked to send the parts to Lloyd, he was going to send them to my house (talk about awkward)... at least Lloyd would have been a neutral entity with SBC's interest in hand... neither of us have spoke with Lloyd as of this afternoon (we both called Tuesday).



So take it how you will, he is not out $$ as I will cover his shipping costs and return the parts and pursue another solution on my nickel. And just to clarify, these parts are in transit to me; I don't have them yet. . my gut feeling was that "accepting" these parts was probably a bad idea, one I will not make again.

 

[SierraRam]

Wow Steve, you are getting a free clutch to make sure all the bases are covered when they have the transmission out, couldn't ask for much more than that. You really need to pull it apart to see what is going on.



Peter reworked my clutch for me when I had some issues with 25K on my DD, sent it back good as new. Some of the best service I have ever had.

 

[AClayton]

We aren't seeing both sides of this story, however it does appear the manufacturer is going well beyond their means to satisfy their customer. They sent you parts... ... have them installed! If Lloyd determines that the failure was 'your fault' ... ..... simply send SBC the money for the parts they sent to you as a 'goodwill' measure. That way you're not deemed a 'user'... ... your word!



With so many deadbeat vendors out there that won't warranty even though it was their product that failed, it is good to see SBC met this challenge head-on and sent parts.



Your method is to send all of his parts back at your cost and then need to purchase parts all over again on your dime also or go with another... ... . again, at your cost!! If it was your fault, then simply pay for your parts that SBC sent.





In a couple of posts above I think you mentioned 'going to another brand' Did you mean another clutch or another truck?... ... it sounded like another truck which SBC may have mis-construed as 'another clutch'. That could have raised an eyebrow on SBC's side especially after sending you the parts.



BTW... ... . I wish ATS would have done 'anything' to help my situation with my auto a couple yrs ago. Lloyd was involved on that one also and he suggested just going with Goerend and consider the ATS a loss or bad investment. It was costly to own a supposedly high performance transmission for only a couple of yrs before their 'supposedly' high performance TC '5-Star' failed and ruined everything else. What is funny is my truck was only a 100 or so hp over stock when I had the ATS and it's 5-star TC went south.



Alan

 

[South Bend Clutch]

Whoa Whoa Whoa hold on here.



Steve, I did read your post wrong and thought you were talking about another clutch (brand)... my bad. As for looking for a hand out or freebie? Not at all. You were sincere on the phone and when people treat me with respect I will always go the extra mile. Maybe that is why your post struck a nerve with me, it didn't sound like the same guy. As for the parts I sent out along with the extra parts are just how I work and would never ask someone to pay for them. My goal is to cover every base to make sure when things get put back together at least these parts can be ruled out.



Regardless, I miss read the post and got my feathers in a ruffle. Sorry



Steve, sign for the clutch dang it and lets get your truck fixed



Peter