Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
With the help of fellow TDR members I finished up on the SPA Dual Gauge install and thought I would post so others thinking about this gauge will find it in their searches.
I did two trucks- a 6 speed EGT/Boost gauge and an Auto trans. Temp/Temp gauge for EGT/Trans temp monitoring.
Inside I replaced the A Pillar with an SRT-10 A Pillar from Dodge. Since I did 2 trucks I found that one was an interference fit that needed no rear gauge bracket while the other was too loose and needed the bracket. Same Pillar just one had a bigger gauge hole.
For interference fit I suggest leaving enough wire/cable hanging out of the pod hole and then just push the gauge in. This way allows for easy access to the back of the gauge with out removing the Pillar for fuse replacement or taking advantage of the external gauge outputs.
For Pillars with a larger hole it’s a good idea to relocate the gauges inline fuse to under the dash for ease of replacement if needed. If the hole is not too big a wrap of electrical tape might do vs the rear bracket.
Running the wires was straight forward with ground, keyed power and the sensor cables.
Access through the firewall on the automatic truck was made by drilling the clutch plate block off
here
On the 6 speed truck access was made through the auto trans. shift cable boot block off here
I grounded to the metal frame behind the knee bolster. Keyed power was picked up on the red wire going to the cig lighter, one screw to remove on the trash bag hook and the radio dash pops back far enough to splice into that wire.
For the thermocouple I chose to install pre turbo in the hottest spot. I removed the air filter housing top half down to the turbo and put some duct tape over the inlet, this gave some more room to work.
Using 3 different size drill bits I worked my way up to a 7/16” hole. For concern of debris in the turbo I used grease on the drill bit and a shop vac hose was necked down in a transmission fill funnel. The suction was so strong through that tip the hose and funnel stayed together on their own.
This is where I drilled
Taping the hole I used a ¼” NPT tap and again with grease on the tip, I cleaned shavings and re-greased 3 times each time going farther in. I taped far enough so the SPA fitting would be flush inside the manifold.
The probe is adjustable so using a small piece of wire I was able to determine a ½ way point in the manifold port and tightened the probe there.
I unsnapped the trucks wire harness case at the fire wall and slipped the thermocouple wire in there.
For the 6 speeds Boost sensor I used a Boost Bolt from Gino’s Garage and for the SPA pressure transducer there is only one spot that will work due to the size of it. It is the next to the last bolt back here
I ran the transducer pigtail also through the trucks wire harness case.
For the Auto trans temp sensor I chose the pan for the reason that my research found industry wide 165-195 deg is the best temps to shoot for in terms of longevity and that 225 deg is the “hot point” at which you need to take action. These numbers are all based on “in pan” readings and I didn’t want to try and convert those to torque converter outlet temps on the way to the cooler. The front line is the out line to the cooler and that’s the hottest if you want to go there.
In looking at the pan and transmission I came to the conclusion that there is only one place for the sensor IMO.
The rear of the pan would not due as the sensor would get bathed in incoming cool fluid from the cooler. The right side I didn’t like as the sensor wire would be close to the exhaust. The left side I didn’t like as it would be by the front drive line.
I ended up placing it here in the front as far away from incoming fluid as possible.
I drilled a 7/16” hole and taped ¼” NPT for the fitting. Screwed it in and then brazed both sides. I have done some welding and this doesn’t look that nice but it was my first attempt at brazing and doesn’t leak.
Anyway I hope this info is found useful.
I did two trucks- a 6 speed EGT/Boost gauge and an Auto trans. Temp/Temp gauge for EGT/Trans temp monitoring.
Inside I replaced the A Pillar with an SRT-10 A Pillar from Dodge. Since I did 2 trucks I found that one was an interference fit that needed no rear gauge bracket while the other was too loose and needed the bracket. Same Pillar just one had a bigger gauge hole.
For interference fit I suggest leaving enough wire/cable hanging out of the pod hole and then just push the gauge in. This way allows for easy access to the back of the gauge with out removing the Pillar for fuse replacement or taking advantage of the external gauge outputs.
For Pillars with a larger hole it’s a good idea to relocate the gauges inline fuse to under the dash for ease of replacement if needed. If the hole is not too big a wrap of electrical tape might do vs the rear bracket.
Running the wires was straight forward with ground, keyed power and the sensor cables.
Access through the firewall on the automatic truck was made by drilling the clutch plate block off
here
On the 6 speed truck access was made through the auto trans. shift cable boot block off here
I grounded to the metal frame behind the knee bolster. Keyed power was picked up on the red wire going to the cig lighter, one screw to remove on the trash bag hook and the radio dash pops back far enough to splice into that wire.
For the thermocouple I chose to install pre turbo in the hottest spot. I removed the air filter housing top half down to the turbo and put some duct tape over the inlet, this gave some more room to work.
Using 3 different size drill bits I worked my way up to a 7/16” hole. For concern of debris in the turbo I used grease on the drill bit and a shop vac hose was necked down in a transmission fill funnel. The suction was so strong through that tip the hose and funnel stayed together on their own.
This is where I drilled
Taping the hole I used a ¼” NPT tap and again with grease on the tip, I cleaned shavings and re-greased 3 times each time going farther in. I taped far enough so the SPA fitting would be flush inside the manifold.
The probe is adjustable so using a small piece of wire I was able to determine a ½ way point in the manifold port and tightened the probe there.
I unsnapped the trucks wire harness case at the fire wall and slipped the thermocouple wire in there.
For the 6 speeds Boost sensor I used a Boost Bolt from Gino’s Garage and for the SPA pressure transducer there is only one spot that will work due to the size of it. It is the next to the last bolt back here
I ran the transducer pigtail also through the trucks wire harness case.
For the Auto trans temp sensor I chose the pan for the reason that my research found industry wide 165-195 deg is the best temps to shoot for in terms of longevity and that 225 deg is the “hot point” at which you need to take action. These numbers are all based on “in pan” readings and I didn’t want to try and convert those to torque converter outlet temps on the way to the cooler. The front line is the out line to the cooler and that’s the hottest if you want to go there.
In looking at the pan and transmission I came to the conclusion that there is only one place for the sensor IMO.
The rear of the pan would not due as the sensor would get bathed in incoming cool fluid from the cooler. The right side I didn’t like as the sensor wire would be close to the exhaust. The left side I didn’t like as it would be by the front drive line.
I ended up placing it here in the front as far away from incoming fluid as possible.
I drilled a 7/16” hole and taped ¼” NPT for the fitting. Screwed it in and then brazed both sides. I have done some welding and this doesn’t look that nice but it was my first attempt at brazing and doesn’t leak.
Anyway I hope this info is found useful.
