SPA Thermocouple question

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On the SPA thermocouple, there is a yellow male connector with a matching yellow female connector provided. Also there is the adaptor box that has the same female connector fittings. Does the adaptor box just plug in and sit on top of the thermocouple? Or do you take the yellow connector off of the thermocouple and use the provided wire to connect to the thermocouple and put the yellow male connector on the other end of it?

Thanks in advance for any help!!!

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto 4. 10LS, Driftwood, CD player with Steering Wheel Controls, Power Driver's Seat, 275HP Injectors, PowerEdge, Bill K's Valve Body, ISSPRO Boost and EGT, K&N Air Filter, Brushguard, Spray-in Liner, 285/75R16 BFG AT KO's, Nerf Bars, Black Diamond Plate Deep Well Tool Box, Mopar flat antispray guards (front and back)
Soon to have: Bill K's TC when available
2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4
NRA Member

 

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TXRam,
You have the right idea. You have to use the yellow wire between the black box and the thermocouple. I mounted the black box to the wiring loom with zip ties. One thing I've noticed is the vibration causes the connectors to come loose, so I just used some wire tape to the connectors.

Steve

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Y2K 3500 SLT+,4x2,Black/Camel,leather,LSD,Auto,3. 55,towing,rhino-liner,eagle series 58 alum wheels,JRE 4" exhaust,VA CPC,SPA gauges,Mag-Hytec Trans Cover

98 20. 1'Viper Coral/200 Merc EFI

 

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What a coincidence. I also have a question about the SPA thermocouple.

I have a Pacbrake elbow that has an opening that fits the thermocouple. The problem is that there is also another tube runng close by that will put a terrible strain on the yellow part of the thermocouple when the engine moves under load.

Can the thermpcouple probe be bent(gently curved) and how much of the probe needs to be inside the exhaust to be effective?

I have the boost sensor installed. Took off the fuel filter system to install my new Pacbrake ECM controller so I did the boost sensor then. That 3/4" plug was in there real tight.

Thanks in advance for any info on the SPA thermocouple.

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1998. 5; 24v,3500,4x4,SLT,QC,5 spd,3. 54,all options available when ordered, 18k lb. Reese full tilt 5th whl. hitch, oem full length diamond plate running boards, eyebrows & hood dam, bed edges,bedhooks plus Rhinohide liner, Pacbrake, britebox,"deepdish"mats, matching topper shell, Sandstone(looks gray to me) & camel leather, stainless fender eyebrows, chrome(and road tar) exhaust turndown pipe.
brush guard, SPA digital boost/egt gauge and pillar mount.
Lowered rear end 4" to set truck level.
See My Truck

1980, W200, regular 4 door crewcab, 360 gas, auto, 68k original miles, 4 coats of Zeebart but losing ground to the saltwater anyway.

 

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Bryan,
Thanks for the quick reply. With that info I will have no problem installing the thermocouple.
One other question..... is it true that I should not cut the yellow wire excess as the resistance is fiquired into the calibration?

 

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The thermocouple can be bent as long as it is a smooth bend. The wire can be cut to any length. The thermocouple should be inserted far enough to insure the tip is in the exhaust stream.

 

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Check www.omega.com for a lot of answeres about thermocouples.

Ralph

 

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Thanks for the help! I got the EGT working, but the boost is giving me a fault. See SPA BOOST PORBLEM- PLEASE HELP post.