Special tool to loosen injectors?

[RCotte]

Hi! I 've been reading your posts for some time. I subscribed recently looking for help.



I am presently trying to start a '99 with apparent fuel problems. However, can anyone tell how to loosen the no. 6 injector and I guess no. 2 which is right behind the inlet air heater? I read that a lot of people talk about changing injectors like like eating cake.



How is this done?

 

[SLightfoot]

It is like eating cake... sorta....

For pulling the injectors, there really is not "special" tool.



Once you have removed the injector hold down clamp, which is really easy. . just a socket wrench, you then pull the injector. Just use one of your intake manifold bolts, and screw it into the top of the injector a few turns.



Then, I used a pair of long needle nosed pliers and used a small block of wood to pry against. Plooop! Out she comes.



I think the long needle nose pliars are the "special" tool you are needing.



Good luck





Shawn

 

[mikel]

You need a crows foot on a ratchet. 19mm.



You might can remove #2 without taking the intake horn off, but it looks really tight. Take the intake off and it's piece-o-cake.



Mike

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

What you're talking about is loosening the fuel line connection to the connector tube I believe - that's what you have to do to bleed those fuel lines. The injectors themselves are underneath the valve cover - you have to remove it to loosen those. To loosen the lines you are talking about you need a "crows foot" which is basically the very end of an open ended wrench with a square hole it in that you can put on a socket wrench (VERY short - 1 1/2 inches or so total length). When people are changing injectors out they remove the air intake horn completely - I've never tried to loosen the #2 fitting without having the air horn removed so I can't tell you what to do there. But the #6 line can be loosened with just a crows foot and a socket wrench - I highly recommend having a torque wrench to tighten it back down though. The torque on those fittings is critical - what's behind that line and fittings is a connector tube that runs parallel to the ground, it connects to an injectors that runs vertical to the ground - that connection is a metal to metal connection, no gasket of any kind. The torque on that fitting (which holds the connector tube to the injector) is therefore very critical.

 

[tobaccogrower]

rcotte:

taking off that #6 line end is a pain in the a$$!!it took me a six pac and alot of four letter words. i used a 19mm open end wrench to take it off and put it on. then once it leaked and i had to loosen it and re-tighten it. its not very hard, just time and patiance consuming. good luck and welcome to the TDR!... . james

 

[BillH]

What Steve said, he changed the #6 on mine.

 

[n7gxz]

Rcotte,



To get to number 6 you will probable need to remove the engine lift ring at the back of the engine. You'll need a looooong 1/2" breaker bar because the bolts are very tight. As for number 2 what Steve said is true, remove the intake horn and heater grids. If you are just trying to bleed the system if you bleed numbers 1,3,4, and 5 and then try and start it should startup. It may horse around for a minute or two but then smooth out.



Kevin

 

[DAWG-1]

Injectors are Easy...

It seems as tho the more frustrated people get working on a job the harder it is . Take you time and remove the intake horn and the lift bracket next to #6. After you do the first 5, #6 is easy. Loosen and/or all high pressure line clamps, then loosen all lines at at the head. I used a screwdriver with very light pressure to slide the fuel tube back a 1/2" out of the way. After you change them out and put it back together (tighten #2), then have someone bump the starter until you bleed the air out. This took me 6 to 7 times. When I jumped in to fire it off I cranked on the starter about 15 seconds and she fired up. Smoke billowed out like an old steam engine, then smoothed. Total time 2 hrs (first time 2hrs) Sam

 

[RCotte]

Thanks to all of you. I honestly feel a lot better having so many replies for my post. I think now that I have to go back to work on the truck since I only was able to loosen 3 injector fittings. Also, I did not let the tubes to spew fuel many times; only two times and gave up. It looks as it is not so easy. Also, I will devise a temporary reservoir for the lift pump suction as I believe it is draining back to the tank. Someone at Cummins local dist. told me that the only way they could fix a FedEx truck was installing an in-line check valve on the fuel line coming from the tank to the pump. Anyone knows where to get this?



I got a reply from OBD offering a scanner($140. 00) that will work with the Cummins/Chrysler system reading and CLEARING trouble codes. Has anyone tried it?