Speed dependent tick-tick sound U- joints?

[JStieger]

I've been having an annoying tick-tick sound that is speed dependent, clutch in or out, coming from somewhere underneath the front half of my truck. It's been doing this for about 2 weeks now and lately has been accompanied by a high speed humming or howl with perhaps a tinge of vibration.



Could this be my U-joints going out?



If so how do I check without pulling everything apart?



I pulled my front wheels off while doing an oil change this morning and a loose bolt (from one of my past projects!) came out of the recesses of one of the rims, but unfortunately this didn't cure the noise as much as I would have liked it to :-laf .



Also, what is turning in the front end with the transfer case in 2wd only? Are one or both of the axle shafts still turning? - I was thinking about pulling the front driveshaft to isolate some of the noise...



If it's the axle shaft U-joints, how do I change those? Do I have to pull the unit hub and brakes off first? (Yes I haven't looked in my shop manual yet... )



Anyhow that Dynatrac locking hub kit looks even more attractive if the price comes down...

 

[GShail]

Take a look at the joints. If there is rust on them, then it is a rusted out piece of ____ & needs to be replaced. The axle joints are really tough to get to because

the hub does have to come off. I got mine off (the hub) by using the right sized socket and wedging it in the right place, and then using the strength of my power steering to get it off, otherwise you need a special puller.

 

[Slow Six]

I just changed both my axle u joints. I didn't think it was to bad of a job. I did a search on here and found a couple of tips that made the job quite easy. I installed the Precision 464 joints which are greasable. I had checked them a short time ago and they seemed okay. The first hints I got is a kind of jerking on the steering wheel when turning and tire skip that felt like it was in 4 wheel drive. All 4 joints on one side were dry and rusted and one joint on the other side was gone with the other 3 close to being done. It appears the axle u joints are the same crap as driveshaft joints.

 

[rbattelle]

I just changed both my axle u joints. I didn't think it was to bad of a job. I did a search on here and found a couple of tips that made the job quite easy. I installed the Precision 464 joints which are greasable. I had checked them a short time ago and they seemed okay. The first hints I got is a kind of jerking on the steering wheel when turning and tire skip that felt like it was in 4 wheel drive. All 4 joints on one side were dry and rusted and one joint on the other side was gone with the other 3 close to being done. It appears the axle u joints are the same crap as driveshaft joints.

464s fit with no grinding or anything?



-Ryan

 

[jwilliams3]

Yes.

I have 464's on my truck.



Exact match.

 

[Alan Reagan]

When my U joints went bad, I was able to jack mine up and apply "hand torque" to the drive shaft and then could hear the 'ping' in the shaft.



The dealer replaced my entire drive shaft.

 

[TCluff]

I've been having an annoying tick-tick sound that is speed dependent, clutch in or out, coming from somewhere underneath the front half of my truck. It's been doing this for about 2 weeks now and lately has been accompanied by a high speed humming or howl with perhaps a tinge of vibration.



Could this be my U-joints going out?



If so how do I check without pulling everything apart?



I pulled my front wheels off while doing an oil change this morning and a loose bolt (from one of my past projects!) came out of the recesses of one of the rims, but unfortunately this didn't cure the noise as much as I would have liked it to :-laf .



Also, what is turning in the front end with the transfer case in 2wd only? Are one or both of the axle shafts still turning? - I was thinking about pulling the front driveshaft to isolate some of the noise...



If it's the axle shaft U-joints, how do I change those? Do I have to pull the unit hub and brakes off first? (Yes I haven't looked in my shop manual yet... )



Anyhow that Dynatrac locking hub kit looks even more attractive if the price comes down...

rotate your front driveline back and forth with the tires on the ground, watch for play in the axle joints and the driveline joints, this will show which joints are bad, i too tried the greasable front u-joints, but i easily destroyed them pulling out a half ton ford in the mud, i went back with stock and they hold up, but they wear out faster , if you need help, let me know, i have had these front ends torn down all the way a few times, even had the diff out to change an axle seal that was bad after a broken front u-joint let the axle bang around, i have service manuals, tools, and a shop, all is fairly easy to do, i never seize all my bolts, so now it is really easy to take apart... . , the u-joints for the axles are 80 dollars a piece, if it is the front driveline, take it to sly, he will rebuild it for about 50 bucks... .

 

[JStieger]

rotate your front driveline back and forth with the tires on the ground, watch for play in the axle joints and the driveline joints, this will show which joints are bad, i too tried the greasable front u-joints, but i easily destroyed them pulling out a half ton ford in the mud, i went back with stock and they hold up, but they wear out faster , if you need help, let me know, i have had these front ends torn down all the way a few times, even had the diff out to change an axle seal that was bad after a broken front u-joint let the axle bang around, i have service manuals, tools, and a shop, all is fairly easy to do, i never seize all my bolts, so now it is really easy to take apart... . , the u-joints for the axles are 80 dollars a piece, if it is the front driveline, take it to sly, he will rebuild it for about 50 bucks... .

Cool! I might have to take you up on your offer... I've done U-joints on my other rigs without problems, but reading posts about having to grind down caps to make U-joints fit has me a bit apprehensive about finding out all this stuff after having everything apart.



I ordered a full set of U-Joints from Rockauto.com last night just in case. I figure with 59,000 miles it's about time anyway since my last truck, an '95 Fart gasser had its U-joints go out at 60,000 miles. I might even take the U-joints and shafts into Sly too.



When I get on days off again I'll still pull my front drive-shaft just to see if I can isolate the noise. However, from reading other's comments about feeling like the truck is in 4wd when it is actually not... :{

 

[SRadke]

First place I'd look is the CV joint on the T-case end of the front driveline. I've seen the center pivot ball out in the center of sooo many of those.



-Scott

 

[TCluff]

First place I'd look is the CV joint on the T-case end of the front driveline. I've seen the center pivot ball out in the center of sooo many of those.



-Scott

thats where i broke one of my 3 front drivelines, they are very weak there as mine broke just off of an idle, love that cummins low end torque, but you have to respect it... , i have also snapped the left front yoke off of the axle, only 200 dollars from latham motors...

 

[Jumbo Jet]

Speed dependent tick-tick-tick - May be a rock in tire tread.

 

[JStieger]

Speed dependent tick-tick-tick - May be a rock in tire tread.

In a sadistic kind of way I kind of wish it was this, but I checked that too - and no nails or screws either!

 

[JStieger]

First place I'd look is the CV joint on the T-case end of the front driveline. I've seen the center pivot ball out in the center of sooo many of those.

thats where i broke one of my 3 front drivelines, they are very weak there as mine broke just off of an idle, love that cummins low end torque, but you have to respect it... , i have also snapped the left front yoke off of the axle, only 200 dollars from latham motors...

Ding... ding... ding... you guys are correct! While my front driveshaft was mounted I couldn't detect any play, but noticed some of the seals blown on the CV. I pulled the driveshaft this morning and one of the CV u-joint crosses had so much play that it slid and almost hit the yoke! No wonder my truck sounded like a helicopter and shook so bad at +55 mph.



I have new Precision greasable joints to install that arrived this morning, but I am not too impressed with how they look kind of wimpy. I brought the driveshaft into Sly Drivelines and I might just end up going to the non-greasable joints for reasons TCluff mentioned. BTW, TCluff, the manager said he's seen a few 3rd gen front drivelines come in... I wonder who those belong to?... :-laf



Also, something to be said for 2WD trucks like I am driving now until Monday - no vibration or clunking whatsoever!