Spicer or Dana (and a warning)?

[bandit]

Had my rear end apart #ad
for some brake work at my local college. The instructor of the auto mechanic program showed me damage that was caused by the incorrect end-play on the axle when it was put back together. My dealer had replaced a rear axel seal about two years ago, and put my rear end back together using the old (Nylock?) nuts, and probably even the fluid (looked terrible today) #ad
#ad
! Yes, I'm a little steamed, so there's my warning: do it yourself, or WATCH the mechanic! When I gave the parts guy my VIN to get the correct fluids for the refill and the new nuts (I bought both), he said I have a Spicer 70. Could he be correct, or is he smoking a tuna fish? #ad
I've always thought and heard these were Dana 70's.

Thanks,
Ken

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'93 W350 CC 4x4 5spd, Banks Stinger (turbo-tailpipe) kit.

 

[PJensen]

Bandit,

You are both correct goto www.dana.com and you will see what I mean. Its Dana Corp and the Spicer light truck line of axles.

As for the poor craftmanship by the dealer, I'd be #ad
too.

Later


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Paul
1983 1 ton Crew Cab 4WD that needs a Cummins soon
South Burbs Chicago, Illinois

 

[Cooker]

Maybe I'mmissing something here.

I do not understand why using the old nylon lock nuts would be a problem, especially since there is a "lock wedge" that pushes in a groove on the spindle and into the nylon on the lock nut.

The problem I could see is that they didn't tighten the spindle (nylon) nuts enough allowing too much play.

If I am incorrect somebody please let me know. I reused my nylon spindle nuts, and didn't forsee any problems doing so.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[R.E. Miller]

I hope that this isn't a problem either, I just re-used the original nuts after the latest brake job I just did. I wasn't all that satisfied with the way that the wedges fit, but they went back in the way they were. Anyway, I thought that these rear axles were dana 60's. How do you tell them apart, mine has 12"X3" brakes.
Russell

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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually (All quiet for now)
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5" exhaust(don't ask)

 

[bandit]

Boys,
Good questions about reusing the nuts and lock wedges: DON'T DO IT! If your rear-end was taken apart for any reason, replace both pieces on either side. The reasoning behind this is that if the little prongs on the lock wedges happen to line up with the holes in the nylon of the nut, then there's a possibility they could come out and cause some serious damage. Remember how axle nuts used to be kept in place: toothed nut and a fresh cotter pin? This is the way they should still me mfgd IMO, but they're trying to save money in the original build processes by putting on pieces you and I have to replace every time we have maintenance done. The nuts are about $35-40 each, the wedges with the prongs (sorry, I'm not too technical) are about $2 each.
If I were in charge of the scene, I'd take the used equipment off and replace it with new, and re-check tolerances too.

Best luck,
Ken

PS: Paul, thanks for the link and the info. I'm now satisfied my parts guy is probably not smoking a tuna.

Thanks again,
Ken
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'93 W350 CC 4x4 5spd, Banks Stinger (turbo-tailpipe) kit.

[This message has been edited by bandit (edited 01-19-2001). ]

 

[CBratten]

[I did find the nuts for about $18. 00 each, after I had reassembled my rear axle. The nuts were advertised in one of the truck magazines. I found that installing the nuts to the proper torque and staking the nut at the point of the grove in the axle housing and leaving the clip out, works just fine. these are Dana 70's . I replaced mine with a Dana 90

 

[Cooker]

FYI The wedges were $4. 85 at my Dodge dealer. Not sure about the nuts.

I would like to add more to this. I did replace the wedges as they were damaged, but I did not replace the nuts.

I don't think they will be a problem now. The wedges did not line up in the original position of the cuts in the nylon, therefore I have no reason to believe they would not serve their intended purpose.

What is the torque spec for the nuts. I tightened them and then backed 'em off 1/8 a turn. As far as hubs and bearing go this seemed about perfect.

Ryan

 

[CBratten]

I replaced the rear axle with an axle from a 1997 D3500. It came from a truck that had burn. I diassemblied it,replaced all seals and bearings. On installing the hub assemblies,when to the book. It stated replace the nuts with new ones and torque to
125lbs. and that was it no backing off. This was new to me, asked another mechanic,he said that was the first time he had heard of that procedure. It has been ok for 12,000 miles

 

[Cooker]

125lbs!

I'm not saying you misread or misstated the info but that seems a bit much IMO. I would think that would put too much pressure on the bearing causing them to get hot, greatly reducing their longevity.

Any others with experience tightening the spindle nuts?

 

[ETOBICOKE]

The correct way to set the bearing clearance is to torque the lock nut to between 120 and 140 ft. lbs. , the wheel should be rotated when torquing. Then the nut is backed off 1/3 of a turn (120 degrees), this will give a bearing 0. 001 to 0. 008 end play.
Normaly a nylon lock nut can be used twice only, then should be replaced.

Neil #ad


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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): bombedcummins@sympatico. ca