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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Spinner II install

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Well I pulled the spinner apart last night thinking I was going to clean it and got a huge suprise. It was empty with no oil in it. Bottom line was that the check valve that is in the spinner stuck closed. I tore it down and when I tried to blow out the valve after removing the spring, it would not come out even with 125 psi of air. I had to drive it out with a drift. The cause is that when the thing was milled, it was not rounded but look like a piston with the top being in the shap of this _------_ . The little ridge around the end was designed to seat into a hole that it could seal. The edges were sharp and bound up.



So, I have run 16,000 on the same oil with only a regular filter change. I am not happy about this but I did find a weakness with the Spinner II that I am now warning you all about.



I have fixed the problem. I took the valve out and chucked it up in the drill press and rounded the end so it cannot stick. I also checked the opening pressure when installed. It was suppose to be 20 psi. But with the air set to 20 psi nothing. It would not open unitil I hit 40 psi on the gage. I shortened the spring. Took me 3 tries to get it where I wanted, but it now opens at 20 psi and does not bind.



I will pull a sample in the morning after I make a run. This will be interesting because the oil is about a dirty as it can get and now that I know the Spinner is working properly, we will see how fast it clean the oil of the soot.



I did not get any pictures last night as I was just focused on correcting the problem. I will work at getting some pictures of it disassembled to show the mods I made so the rest of you can benifit.



I believe in the technology of this unit. Just my luck that when they built this that they made the seating surfaces too tight and they stuck. But it is fixed.



More to come later. ;)
 
Today is my last day of work and I will be off Tommorow, which is Wed and Thurs, Friday and Sat. I will be doing bills in the morning and then I will work on the truck in the afternoon. I should have pictures posted by early afternoon on Wed along with my last oil analisys. ;) I have some where in the range of 3,000 miles now on this oil all under spinner monitoring.
 
mundgyver

In your install photos... it looks like there is a sender of some kind in the oil line closest to the valve cover. If that is what it is... . what is it for?



Thank you

Steve.
 
It is an oil temp sending unit. I have since moved it to my differential. Oil temp runs about 10 to 15* higher than the coolant temp
 
Here are some more. I only have about 2,000 miles of driving. The bottom picture shows my attempt as scraping it out with a thin blade knife. I think what I am going to do is normal oil filter changes at my 7,500 mark and just clean this once a year. You can see the tar like quality inthe glass.
 
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Here is my other by pass filter that I can add if I want to. It is a Puradyne PFT 12 system. I have given serious thought to using this one along with the spinner also. The two together would be an ultimate setup ;) :D
 
Mundgyver said:
Here are some more. I only have about 2,000 miles of driving. The bottom picture shows my attempt as scraping it out with a thin blade knife. I think what I am going to do is normal oil filter changes at my 7,500 mark and just clean this once a year. You can see the tar like quality inthe glass.



Wally, that's an impressive amount of carbon in just 2k miles. Other projects have keep me procrastinating of fabricating the bracket to mount my Spinner, but I'm inspired now.
 
The oil look good and feel good between the fingers based on what I have observed in the past. I will be sending in another sample in another 5,500 miles and the results will be posted. Overall I am happy.



When I scraped the side of the spinner with the knife, the feel was like scraping a candle wax drip or candy taffy drip of the top of a coffe table. Thats the only thing I can describe it to for the way it felt. I did this because today I am taking the residue into work and am going to look at it under a microscope, just my own edification as to what it looks like. ;)



I finished the cleaning of the spinner with Laquer Thinner which cuts all of the goo out of it and makes it look new. This was followed with a compress air clean and the reassembles.



Darkhorse - Remember to check the function of the valve in the spinner. It should open at 20 psi. Pull it out and look at and you will see why mine stuck closed. I rounded mine to prevent this from happening in the future and I tweak the spring so it open at exactly 20 psi. You will also want to shim your engine oil by-pass spring up to compensate for the small drop in pressure on the system when you install the spinner. If you have any questions give me a call at 503 201-6569 my cell.



-Wally- ;)
 
Are there any other options for places to mount the spinner other than on the alt. bracket. More outa site ?

Seems like the lines might be expensive to extend ?
 
I just received my oil analysis report back, and my Soot is 0. 20 % wt. The oil has 45,300 miles on it, truck has 54,000. I use the Amsoil BE-100 spin-on Bypass and Amsoil (AME) Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine 15W-40 oil. Viscosity is 14. 05 cSt@100 C

right in the middle of the requirements for a 40 grade oil. To be considered a SAE 40 grade oil, minumum is 12. 5 cSt@100 C Max is 16. 3 cSt@100 C.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
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Rivercat, If you look at the pictures I posted at the beginning of the thread, you might be able to build a bracket to mount it down by the return line port at the block. This would put out of site down on the side of the engin, but would make it harder to service and would remove it from being close to the oil supply.



One of the things that the install instruction stress is to be as close as possible to the oil supply so as not to lose any heat. They want the oil to as hot as possible, making it thinner which alows the soot to be removed easier with less resistance due to the viscosity.



I had originally toy'd with the idea of mounting directly on top of the valve cover itelf and drain straight in. If I had a muscle hood with the raised centeer section, I would have bought another valve cover and machined it to take the spinner directly on top or maybe a bracket and return port on the side.



The alternator seems to be the easiest work up for a mounting scheme. These were the thoughts that had crossed my mind when I went into this project.



-Wally-
 
wally how is this system doing? With 15/40 having increased a full $100 for a 55 drum I am super tempted to intall one of these. any other advise having had the system for several months?
 
I have been in recovery mode for back surgery so I have been de-focused. The spinner system is working very well. I have not opened it up and have a couple of thousands miles to go before I submit another oil sample. With the price of oil going up, by-pass filter makes more and more sense. My goal is to get to 100,000 between oil changes. I know I can do this. Just takes time and monitoring. ;)
 
WALLY,

I contacted the same place you got yours from by email they said that all you get is the bare centrifuge. Can you give us a specific list of lines and fittings we need to do this install useing the alt bracket like yours?

I guess I need to ask if you are up to building and shipping me one of your custom oil returns too.

I wish there was another place to stick it cause it might interfere will twins plumbing-one day-:D .

I keep having to change my oil every 2000 miles cause of soot in it. I can tell the oil itsself has ALOT left in it just can't keep running it with so much soot. It feels like new between the fingers but stains black the skin on the top of my hand worse then stockers do with 10,000 on their oil. Cant wait to get spinner-ed:D
 
I have a job that will take me about 1/2 a day that I need to do tomorrow, modifying a saw shroud for a local company.



One point of concern. You mentioned twins. If you look through the thread at the pictures I posted, the bracket runs with the block, parallel. My concern is that the bracket might interfer with the plumbing for the twins. What I will do is take some pictures and measurments tomorrow and post them on this thread. It would not do us any good to build a bracket, only to find out that it would be gouging the plumbing for the turbos. May be you can post a picture from above and the side of your engine with the twins with some clearance measurments. That will give me a clear view as to whether my style of bracket will work or not.



Call me if you want 503 201-6569



Wally-
 
Hey Wally, when you do your next oil analysis, consider having a particle count done as well - I plan on getting one done, be interesting to see what differences between your Spinner and a decent bypass filter.
 
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