spongy brakes

[don b]

my brakes are a little spongy. we bled the rears before travelling last summer but the fronts were not done because the bleeder screws would not budge. i would prefer not to spring for new calipers so i am asking for advice on how to unseize them. i am thinking penetrating oil and heat. will torch heat dostroy the calipers. thanks. ps i live in the fraser valley of bc and there are lots of first gens here. today i counted 7 in a 10 minute trip. no one noticed me because i drive a riceburner for local trips.

 

[ARedetzke]

I probably wouldn't put a torch to your calipers, unless you're prepared to buy new ones. Never tried it, but I would think that the heat would melt the seals

AJ

 

[Paychk]

Get some PB Blaster and spray it on. Then using a deep well socket that fits the screws, place it over the screw and rap it smartly with a hammer. Dont smack it so hard you damage the socket. Some times you may need to put a breaker bar on the socket and put some loosening torque on it as you smack it. This usually gets the job done.



PS heat as a very last resort, don't want to damage any of the seals in the caliper.

 

[dpuckett]

I would bleed the RWAL valve again. ANd then once more for good measure. They can be a real PITA. If you still have a spongy pedal, take it out, disassemble it, clean everything off real well at the kitchen sink (this is better achieved if the wife is NOT home), dry it, and reassemble it. It worked on mine. I have to keep the rears adjusted pretty tight now- like a noticeable drag as you spin the wheel all the way around. Make that, an AUDIBLE drag of the shoes on the drums the entire round. Self adjusting means crawl under there yourself and adjust them.



Get those front calipers bled. Not sure what they cost up there, but here in the states, I have gotten calipers for either 4x4 or 2wd for under $50 for the pair. I can understand wanting to put the money elsewhere (like in the tank), but this just might be a bullet you'll have to bear down and bite. I'd venture to guess that if you take any heat to the calipers, you'll be buying new ones.



Daniel

 

[MFalkinham]

I would go ahead and just buy rebuilt calipers rather than fighting a seized bleeder. Chances are good if the bleeder screw is corroded, then so are the piston and cylinder. That $50 price Daniel quoted was about right when I replaced mine. Make sure you clean and lube the slides with some synthetic brake lube. When bleeders are frozen, I usually try the penetrating oil and gently apply pressure with a 6 pt. socket and small 1/4" breaker bar back and forth. You have a 50/50 shot at loosening it or shearing it off.



Lately whenever I bleed brakes I will completely remove the bleeder screw and lightly coat the threads with anti-seize. Since doing that, I've never had one seize or snap off on me.



- Mike

 

[JLEONARD]

I would go ahead and just buy rebuilt calipers rather than fighting a seized bleeder.

I agree. I put in a set of loaded calipers 2 1/2 years ago and they are still working fine. No regrets... wouldn't do it any other way next time.

But to each his own. I've fought brakes in the past but learned how to do things the right way over time.

Jay

 

[drives mopars]

wheres a good place to get rotors

is napa ok or

whats the best brand to get

 

[Philip]

I have been using NAPA brake componets for a few decades now. I have had very little issues with them over the years.

 

[tugboatphil]

Don,



I bled my system several times and still had a soft pedal. I finally checked the adjusters on the rears. They were backed so far it was taking two pumps to get any stopping out of them. I drew them in several turns and I had good brakes.

 

[LandShark]

Rather than use heat on the caliper why not use cold on the bleed screw. Ice may work, but your best bet is spray freon or something similar. Electronic stores sell a spray can to chill curcuit boards for testing.

 

[y-knot]

Spongy brakes are also a sign of old or worn out rubber hoses. Many times the older hoses expand on a hard quick stop, and never feel the same afterwords. The rubber is worn out and allows the hose to balloon, creating spongy brakes.

 

[Paychk]

Electronic stores sell a spray can to chill curcuit boards for testing.

An alternative is to buy the dust off spray, turn the can upside down and spray, the result is instant freeze. Available just about anywhere and cheaper than the electronic store kind.

 

[dan_gilson]

If the bleeders are stuck chances are that you have had enough water in the calipers that there is rust inside of them too. So you will probably start to have problems with them even after getting all the water out.



The calipers are designed to take a lot of heat. So a little spot heat around the bleeder is not going to hurt. Providing that you don't get the caliper too hot. Pentrating oil and socket will also help.



If it were me I would be considering changing out all the slaves and completly flushing the system. I have lost a slave a couple of times and it has never been a pleasant/fun experience.



Another thing, (starting a rant against dealer practices), dealers tend not to bleed/flush braking systems at the 30K interval service. Why? Because it increases their liability and the sooner the brakes have a problem the more money they make from you. So, it is not in their best interest no matter what the manual or manufacture says.



So, it is in your best interest to make sure that you flush you system at an interval depending on your use pattern. If you tow heavy or go through make more severe cycles then flush more frequently. 30K interval is typically a 2 year service. Which ever comes first.



When I say flush, I do not mean just a bleed. What I like to do is use 2 different colored fluids and move enough fluid through until I see the other color. That way you KNOW that you have new fluid all they way out to the slave. This typically involves 1. 5 to 3 quarts depending on the year of your truck. It takes 45 minutes to an hour for me just because I work round robin on the corners so that I do not close off the safety valve.



When you get through make SURE that you do a pressure test by standing on the pedal for a minute or so. This a after you have cleaned everything so that you can easily see of there is a leak. If it leaks, don't drive it!!!



OK, so I have done my safety thing for today. I hope this help you out.