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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sport Headlight Wiring

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Power Help

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I converted my truck from a SLT to the Sport with the sport headlights. I called Dodge and they said that they didn't have just a headlight harness. Does anyone have a diagram or has anyone ever wired up the sport headlights? Any help would be appreciated. Oo.
 
If you do a search on "Sport Headlights" you'll get a lot of information. I just did mine 3 months ago, and I wired mine using 2 Bosch 30A Relays. This takes almost all the load off of the Headlight switch. I pulled current for each relay from a "Mad Electrical Terminal Block"--a $5 investment which is GREAT! Get if from Madelectrical.com They are a good source for some rewiring stuff although they cater mostly to hot-rod folks.



I mounted each Terminal Block on the sheet metal beside each battery, and got 12V+ for each T. Block by soldering 10G wire into each battery cable. Then use the factory High & Lo beam wires to trigger each respective relay.

It is takes some time, but the results are wonderful!
 
jkalchik said:
. . . By an inline splice?



jkalchik



No splices or cut wires are needed. Go to SUVlights and order a 7004 plug to fit the 7004 socket that is attached to either headlight. The trigger coils of your relays are wired into this new plug, allowing the in-dash headlight switch to control the relays. While you're at SUVlights you can order sockets and relays to complete your new harness. Be aware that D/C uses switched ground on the OEM headlights of model year 2000 and newer second generation Rams. I don't know about earlier years.
 
jkalchik said:
Robert, how did you do the wiring to trigger the relays? By an inline splice?

jkalchik



No jkalchik, I cut the original Hi or Lo wire at a place in the wiring harness below the driver's side battery, and then soldered each trigger wire into each respective (Hi or Lo beam) wire. I shrink-tubed each soldered joint, taped it to be sure, and re-wrapped the wiring harness in electrical tape.
 
Thomas said:
No splices or cut wires are needed. Go to SUVlights and order a 7004 plug to fit the 7004 socket that is attached to either headlight. The trigger coils of your relays are wired into this new plug, allowing the in-dash headlight switch to control the relays. While you're at SUVlights you can order sockets and relays to complete your new harness. Be aware that D/C uses switched ground on the OEM headlights of model year 2000 and newer second generation Rams. I don't know about earlier years.

Ha! That's the single cotton pickin' piece I've been missing!



I've already got a stash of 30A relays and bases. And 9004/9007 headlight sockets are pretty commonly available around here.



I'm going to do the Sport headlight conversion before too long on my 99 QC. I built a similar style harness for my Jeep Cherokee when I loaded it up with a set of Hella H4 110/55 lamps.



jkalchik
 
The beauty of having that plug is that your can make up your harness without any changes to the OEM wiring. Some have used the base of a broken 9004 bulb to make up their own "plug". The plugs (and sockets) from SUVlights are top quality.
 
On a side note, I picked up the quad headlight assemblies this afternoon, from an outfit called Certifit (http://www.certifit.com. ) $68. 45 per side, complete with bulbs and rubber welts.



Thomas is right, my goal here is zero changes to the factory wiring.



jkalchik
 
One last side note..... the headlight assemblies I noted above are the Depo parts, available through ImportVision, Headlight Warehouse and others.



I also point out that if you've got a CertiFit shop available (they only ship to body & repair shops) you can get the same assemblies significantly cheaper than the group buy.
 
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As a word of caution for you guys having the factory fog lights, pay special attention to the way the fog light relay is wired (at least on the newer trucks). This relay utilizes a small amount of current to flow through the OEM bulb to activate. Some of the new Sport wiring schemes will latch up (all lights on until you manually turn the fog lights off) due to this relay. You either have to design the wiring to accomidate for this or, as Thomas had suggested a while back, just remove the relay and insert a jumper wire. The jumper will keep the fog lights on regardless of whether high beams or low beams are used (OEM configuration turns fog lights off when high beams are switch on via this relay). Otherwise, night time driving becomes fun with this conversion. :)
 
Just like my above post said, the CertiFit assemblies come with bulbs. CertiFit carries the Depo assemblies, identical right down to the part numbers.



Besides, I suspect that the bulb prices are horribly inflated. Waytek Wire carries them for $2 or less.
 
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