SPS 62 Installation Questions

[ohnoitsyu]

Getting ready to install an SPS 62 that's been taunting me in my living room (where else?), and I have a few questions.



1. I have an auto transmission, and so I need to replace the down pipe. Since it has a clamp, similar to the muffler holding the down pipe to the rest of the system, is it as much of a challenge to remove the down pipe, or will I have to cut (much like a muffler replacement)? What are the tips and tricks for this?



2. I've read a lot of info on connecting the compressor to the intercooler pipe and the clearance issues involve with aftermarket air intakes. How is the clearance with the stock airbox?



3. I've read about having to prime the turbo, but they've all referenced disconnecting the TST and cranking the motor for a bit. I don't have a TST, but I have an Edge J/A. Can I disconnect the power to that and crank the truck? BTW, how long should I crank?



4. Do you use red Loctite on the turbo mounting hardware?



Anything else? Apparently, the turbos don't come with any installation info, and I've never installed a turbo before.

 

[Diesel Nut]

This may help. This is teh instructions for the BD Super B which is also an S300, so install should be very similar. At least you'll have tq values.



BD Install Guide



As for priming the turbo, I have a bottle with a small tip and dump some Amsoil in t eh bearings and spin the turbo a bit, the when starting the truck I just pull the injector connectors off. It will crank but not fire. Downside is without a downloader you can't clear the codes, but they will clear eventually.

 

[ohnoitsyu]

Good link. Thank you!



However, I think it created more questions than answers!

If I remember correctly from when I installed the pyro sensor, I have studs and nuts on the outside mounting the turbo, and thru bolts on the inside accessed from the bottom (I didn't remove it, but I looked). This is very different than what BD describes.



The SPS came with two studs and two nuts. I presume I use these on the outside, and reuse the bolts on the inside. The BD turbo comes with completely different hardware.



It mentions an outlet elbow that I don't have... should I?



It says to squirt oil into the turbo while spinning the compressor wheel. Should this oil be squirted into the oil fill line hole? Their instructions aren't very clear, and I don't want to assume.



I haven't read much mention of people actually having to clock their II SPS turbos on the 3rd gens... will that be necessary?



I couldn't find the torque specs you mentioned, and it didn't address removing the stock downpipe, though.

 

[DKoerber]

There are two things that you need to know before you start.



1. If your exhaust system is still stock and you haven't removed your cat then even with the HX40 down pipe you are going to come up about 8" short on the exhaust side from the down pipe to your CAT. I had to fab a piece of exhaust to make up this gap.

2. I can't remember what side the studs go on but when you remove the old one you'll see the difference in the flange thickness of the turbos. I'm pretty sure that I had to remove the studs closest to the block and replace them with the ones supplied by II.

3. Make sure you get a couple of replacement nuts. The original ones are a pain in the butt to get off.

 

[DKoerber]

oops!! make that three things

 

[ohnoitsyu]

Thank you!



My exhaust is still stock. I'm surprised that I haven't read that anywhere about the 8" gap. If I install an MBRP muffler at the same time, would that resolve the shortage issue?



Are the nuts and off-the-shelf item from a hardware store? Metric or SAE? Or do I have to get them from the dealer?



More and more, this doesn't seem like a simple bolt-on kit!

 

[CHolman]

For pete sake, put your oil return line on while you have it out... TRUST ME!!!!

 

[jjdiesel]

If you're turbo is brand new you don't need to pre-lube anything... . it's already been done by II. I installed mine by myself so I did'nt have anyone to watch for when the oil started coming out of the feed line while cranking. I put a little dixie cup under the braided line and cranked. If it should happen to start, just turn it off instantly... no harm done. Keep bumping the starter. Once the oil gets there she really flows. Then just hook the line up and tighten her down and you're ready to roll.

 

[DKoerber]

I have the MBRP cat back. So my stock cat has never been touched and you'll be 8" short if you have the stock cat setup. I don't know if you get the turbo back system from MBRP if that will fix the gap.



The nuts were pretty hard to find. I ended up at a fastener company which only sells nuts and bolts.

 

[ohnoitsyu]

Do you know the size of the nuts? I'd prefer to get them before I take everything apart.



That's suprising on the 8" gap! I can't recall ever reading that before this thread. What are most people doing to fill the gap? Will I have to drive this thing with an open exhaust to the muffler shop? (It wouldn't be the first time. )



I'm still not entirely clear on the priming. The turbo is new. Do I just hook up the line and crank it for a while or... ?



On the oil return line... Does the line come completely out of the vehicle, or do you mean just connect the end of the line to the turbo before mounting the turbo? I haven't looked at what the other end of the line goes to.

 

[DKoerber]

Sorry I don't remember the size of the nuts. I just took the studs supplied by II down to the fastener store and matched them up.



I spoke to II when I was installing the turbo and they said that they had never heard of the gap before. I emailed them pictures of the gap and told them to let others in California know when they are buying their turbo that they will need a piece of exhaust pipe. I never heard back from them but it sounds like they haven't warned anyone. This was about 7 months ago. This is not meant to bash II for the lack of warning to others. I love their product and would buy another one in a heart beat.



The oil return line stays on the engine. When my mechanic and I installed the turbo we primed it before putting it on.

 

[jwilliams3]

Get the nuts from a Cummins or Dodge dealer.

The same size nuts from a hardware store will have to big of a head for the wrench end of things.

 

[ohnoitsyu]

I spoke to II when I was installing the turbo and they said that they had never heard of the gap before. I emailed them pictures of the gap and told them to let others in California know when they are buying their turbo that they will need a piece of exhaust pipe. I never heard back from them but it sounds like they haven't warned anyone. This was about 7 months ago. This is not meant to bash II for the lack of warning to others. I love their product and would buy another one in a heart beat.

And I think they may have gone backwards in their service. While reading through many threads, I've seent that II used to include installation instructions with their turbos. I didn't get any. At least they got my shirt size correct without even asking (XL is usually a safe bet for most CTD owners).