SPS62 Turbo Install Problems

[lcaad1249]

Back in last August, I installed a SPS 62. After installed I had an exhaust leak from what seems to me not having the studs on the motor side of the turbo with enough thread to properly tighten. (The smooth area in the middle of the stud was too tall). I ended up installing a triple layer cat gasket and it was thick enough to have made the difference.



Well about a week ago, I noticed an exhaust leak that went from nothing to bad really quick. I looked under the hood and one bolt on the passenger side of the turbo was missing and the other one was missing its nut so the side was completely unsupported. I put new bolts in and still noticed a leak. Last night I decided to loosen all 4 and tighten evenly. Once I lowered the turbo down, I noticed the gasket had completely severed itself on the front motor side around that stud (Which was the only one still in tight).



I went to get some lock-tite but noticed that even the high temp application only went to 450 degrees.



Any advise to prevent this from happening again?

 

[staarma]

Back in last August, I installed a SPS 62. After installed I had an exhaust leak from what seems to me not having the studs on the motor side of the turbo with enough thread to properly tighten. (The smooth area in the middle of the stud was too tall). I ended up installing a triple layer cat gasket and it was thick enough to have made the difference.



Well about a week ago, I noticed an exhaust leak that went from nothing to bad really quick. I looked under the hood and one bolt on the passenger side of the turbo was missing and the other one was missing its nut so the side was completely unsupported. I put new bolts in and still noticed a leak. Last night I decided to loosen all 4 and tighten evenly. Once I lowered the turbo down, I noticed the gasket had completely severed itself on the front motor side around that stud (Which was the only one still in tight).



I went to get some lock-tite but noticed that even the high temp application only went to 450 degrees.



Any advise to prevent this from happening again?

I would suggest taking the manifold off of your truck and then getting the right hardware to do the install on your bench. Then install the manifold and turbo together on your truck.

 

[mberry]

I would suggest taking the manifold off of your truck and then getting the right hardware to do the install on your bench. Then install the manifold and turbo together on your truck.

I agree 100% with this statement. I think it's really the only way to get a good look at what's going on.

 

[lcaad1249]

Is there a gasket between the block and the manifold that would need to be purchased to do this? Or any other pieces I would need?

 

[KevinO]

There are several gaskets in between the motor and manifold they can be reused. when i went from a 12 cm to 14 cm housing on my turbo i took the manifold off and it made it easier to see that the stud you are talking about was not threaded long enough. I found some bolts to use. it hasn't loosened up because i think it gets enough heat pretty quick to gall up the threads.

 

[JJPage]

The six individual "crush" gaskets between the manifold and the head are about $4. 00 for the set @Cummins.



Taking the manifold off and installing the turbo on a bench is much simpler, I have done it both ways and the manifold removal method is the way to go!

 

[TCDiesel]

We had this happen to almost every customer that installed SPS/PS with exhaust Brake, We had to drill new Holes and install Automotive Bolts and Nuts,Works Great and you can remove the turbo in less than 5 mins, I will try and post a Picture.



On Edit,Make sure you cover the intake,this picture was taken just prior to the elbow being installed.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

The six individual "crush" gaskets between the manifold and the head are about $4. 00 for the set @Cummins.

They also have the new multi layer gaskets, much better.



Jim

 

[ohnoitsyu]

One of my biggest gripes about the Industrial Injection turbos is that installation info is non-existent. Through many e-mails with II, I was not able to get any useful information other than, "Just replace the turbo with the new one and contact us if you have any questions. " Thanks guys.

It was also difficult to get useful information here on TDR.



Anyhow... back to the problem.

When you installed the turbo, did you remove the original studs near the motor and replace them with the shorter ones included with the turbo? The shouldered area on those is a lot shorter, and should be threaded into the manifold near the motor. The studs you removed from the manifold are reused on the side away from the motor. I don't believe there is any need for thicker gaskets.

 

[JJPage]

They also have the new multi layer gaskets, much better.



Jim

I was not aware of that, Thank You, I will keep that in mind next time! Jess

 

[supersonic]

I wish i could get them here, they wont get me any till they deplete the stock of crush gaskets.

 

[BradyWilliams]

We are working very hard to update our website and we will include instructions on how to install and care for ALL of our products. Sorry about the lack of info. We see the install as very easy but are now trying to correct this on our website. Thanks

 

[lcaad1249]

When you installed the turbo, did you remove the original studs near the motor and replace them with the shorter ones included with the turbo? The shouldered area on those is a lot shorter, and should be threaded into the manifold near the motor. The studs you removed from the manifold are reused on the side away from the motor. I don't believe there is any need for thicker gaskets.

No I didn't. I bought this turbo slightly used and knew nothing about a shorter stud. I did go to a Cummins shop in town and bought these shorter studs. I only changed the front stud though. That was just to make manuevering the turbo into place easier. It definitely helped.



Now on to my new problem. Got everything installed correctly now so there's no exhaust leak but oil is leaking like nobody's business out of the return line next to the block. Anybody know a good way to get this back into the block?

 

[JMiltier]

whats the part number on the shorter threads and twest did you completely drill out the manifold and turbo where the studs go and use just regular bolts and nuts (can't see the pic very well) thanks

 

[lcaad1249]

I just went in to my local cummins shop and it was the only studs they had for any application for the turbo. It's a 15 MM nut and 8 (I think) MM stud.

 

[Snoxracer]

No I didn't. I bought this turbo slightly used and knew nothing about a shorter stud. I did go to a Cummins shop in town and bought these shorter studs. I only changed the front stud though. That was just to make manuevering the turbo into place easier. It definitely helped.



Now on to my new problem. Got everything installed correctly now so there's no exhaust leak but oil is leaking like nobody's business out of the return line next to the block. Anybody know a good way to get this back into the block?

I would take the drain tube back off and try to stretch it out just a bit (also check for any cracks) and then stick it in the block first, making sure it is in all the way. Then attach it to the turbo making sure that you have not pulled it out of the block any.

 

[lcaad1249]

When I did the reinstall, I only put the shorter stud on the front driver's side hole. The rear one is still long. I also added a lock washer to get some more distance for the nut to hold on. Will this be ok?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

should be fine I have flat and lock washers on mine

 

[lcaad1249]

Is thre any advantage in double nutting the bolts in order to prevent them from backing off again?

 

[jwilliams3]

Here is what I do (and it works):

Go to Ace hardware with one of the stainless nuts from the turbo flange.

Find metric bolts that match the thread pitch and size of the nut. Make sure they have enough length and threads to support a nut on each end of the manifold and turbo. This might take some measuring and might require you buy some bolt that are too long and have a head on them that is useless to you. Basically what you are doing is buying a bolt that is going to be cut to length and used as a stud.

Next go to your Dodge dealer and buy 2-4 extra turbo stainless nuts. They dont have the right size of nut at ACE... the wrench end will be too big for the bolt size.



After all this you should be ready to install your new studs and nuts with your turbo and manifold.



*if you using a stock manifold you may be required to removed the studs from the OEM manifold. I usually use a set of channel locks to do this. Thread in the new studs/bolts they dont have to be tight just snugged up.

*use anti seize on everything.



Here is a picture of what it will look like at the manifold (notice the nuts on the top and bottom of the flange):

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