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SPYNTEC CONVERSION TOOLS REQUIRED?

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Dysfunctional Vet

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BLUF: What specialty tools are required to install Geno's Spyntec front hub conversion kit?

Just purchased the Spyntec front hub conversion kit from Geno's for my '06 2500. Was wondering what type of non-standard (anything larger than 1 &1/4 inch or 22mm or pronged, etc) sockets are required to install the hubs. I'd like to have the sockets purchased and ready to go by the time the kit gets here. Any help is appreciated.
 
If your creative you can use a combination of sockets and short extensions to press the hubs off the steering knuckle. The only special Spanner socket that you need is the one for the nuts that hold the new hubs Together. Aside from pressing the old hubs off the knuckles the job is fairly easy.
 
Good to see that they updated the instructions to show that you need to cut down the axle bolts. When I did mine in 2015 or so, I was totally blindsided.
The “turn the steering to press out the hub using a deep socket” really worked for me. Wasn’t budging otherwise.
Good choice. Excellent kit.
 
So I finished the job. Love the hubs, hate the front axle seal oil leak that showed up after the test drive. (This is the part where I'm banging my head on a brick wall to make the emotional pain go away).
After the install I drove the truck to the wash rack and cleaned 'er up (10 miles roundtrip)...no leak. Next day drove to work (30 miles one-way)...no leak. Went to lunch (3 miles roundtrip), parked the truck in the work parking lot and looked down to see a drip. Drove back home after work (30 miles) drip kept dripping.
Before the job I had a slight oil leak from the LF axle seal. I replaced both seals while I had the third member and axles out. Now the LF leaks and I have to tear it all down again. If I didn't love the truck I would drive it off a cliff, then set it on fire, then put the residual pieces into a shredder. Really not looking forward to tearing that whole front axle down again. Not sure what I did wrong: (1) lubed both axles shafts during install, (2) checked for nicks or worn axle shafts at point of axle/seal contact, (3) counted turns on side gear adjusters, returned them to exact same spot, (4) did not overfill diff, (5) checked diff vent for clogging. If anybody has had the same issue I'd appreciate any wisdom sent my way. I would hate to do this a third time!
 
I’m surprised that with the axle shafts not spinning anymore there would be no leak. Seal must be ripped up pretty bad.
Sorry ‘bout that v
 
Did you put a small amount of RTV on the outside of the seal? That part that goes into the housing?

I do this all the time since I had a leak at the same spot as you, many years back on a jeep axle.
 
First of all I'm an idiot. Second, you and Wayne are both right.
Here's what happened: as I took the old seal out I gouged the housing right where the seal sits once mounted. The metal pipe I was using to pop the seal out was not forgiving. Not sure how I missed the gouge first time around. I also did not put any sealant around the seal before install.
I sanded the housing down in an attempt to mitigate the gouged damage. I've also put sealant around the seal and installed it.
Its not completely together yet but I should have it done by the end of the weekend. Will give you guys an update later.
Still can't believe I did that.
 
Sorry, didn't post sooner, the USAF sent me TDY for a short while, (yes, even civilians go TDY). So I went back and redid everything. I'll cut to the punch line first...everything worked, truck is no longer leaking. Love the hubs and the peace of mind they give me. But in between getting it right and putting the seal in a second time (w/ sealant) I over-filled the diff and thought the seal was bad, again. What happened was I have a Mag Hytec diff cover. I was going by the mark at the top of the dipstick. Once I realized I was over-filling the diff, I drained the excess fluid and all was well. I'll give a true test drive in mid November when I tow my 16K lbs 5thie to Escondido Draw for some camping/riding. That will help me decide whether I should also do the conversion on my son's '05 and my other '12. Thanks again guys for weighing in.
 
I wouldn't do it again if not for the 2WD Low ability.*
The unibearings are excellent if you re-grease them at the same milage you service the freespins.

*that I absolutely wanted
 
I wouldn't do it again if not for the 2WD Low ability.*
The unibearings are excellent if you re-grease them at the same mileage you service the freespins.

*that I absolutely wanted
I just didn't want the front axle assembly spinning all the time. And I tow the 5thie at least 8 times a year and a smaller utility trailer at least 10 times a year. I've seen the RAMman version of the front lock-out hubs on Youtube, they look like unibearings. Last time I priced 'em they were cheaper. You think that would be a better option?
 
I just didn't want the front axle assembly spinning all the time. And I tow the 5thie at least 8 times a year and a smaller utility trailer at least 10 times a year. I've seen the RAMman version of the front lock-out hubs on Youtube, they look like unibearings. Last time I priced 'em they were cheaper. You think that would be a better option?

Yeah, have seen them too.
And I say they'll work with the Gen4 rims, their center cap doesn't fit over the Dynas from what I've learned.
 
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