Spyntec free wheel hub owners

[KenHwy61]

I am considering installing Spyntec hubs on my 2012. I would like to know if those who have them think they were worth the cost and if an average DIY mechanic could install.
Thanks

 

[Wayne M.]

There are a couple of posts like this with 4 gen owners looking at a free spin conversion. Since the basic axle configuration of our Rams haven't changed since 1994, and the conversion proves popular with all these models, I would think that the popularity of the conversion should continue.
The only negative is that some new trucks have wheels with a small center cap, you may have to modify some wheels.
I have a Spyntec kit on my '04, and I highly reccomend it as a durability upgrade as well as a replacement for when the OE unit bearings act up and need replacement. It's an expensive proposition, but I feel that the peace of mind and knowing that you're not turning half the powertrain, and are able to inspect and rebuild these parts that you presently can not was convincing to me.

I did perform the installation myself, but I am a heavy truck mechanic by trade. If you're comfortable dealing with the weight of the truck (do you have a safe place to work, concrete surface, and own the proper jacks?) and can do jobs like changing universal joints, then you might be able to handle this job.

 

[mpaulson]

Had them on my 07.5. Loved them. The steering felt lighter and the general feel was all around better. Less vibration etc. felt in the steering wheel. I'm not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined and I did it myself. The hardest two parts of the job are as mentioned, the u-joints, I had to use a press, and pressing the OEM hub out of the mount. It can be rusted in. I small piece of pipe cut to the perfect length that will just fit over the hex head but still contact the hex head flange can be used to press out the hub by loosening off the bolts on the hub, then putting the piece of pipe on the head on one side then using the power steering to steer the truck to apply force against the bolt thus pressing the hub out. the pipe has to be the right length to put the other end against a part of the truck(been too long, can't remember what it was) but then crank the steering. The link below in the last 10 seconds of it shows the method that I'm talking about. Except have the truck on PROPER JACK STANDS!!!! And don't have a kid in range!??? a socket and the right length of an extension will work. I had a piece of pipe that I cut to the perfect length.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ufnffqjoz4

 

[RBertalotto]

Yes,I installed this system and wrote a whole article about it on my web site. Absolutely worth it. Less vibration, 1-2 mpg better and I can use 2 WD Low now pulling up a boat ramp.

http://rvbprecision.com/rv-projects/ems-off-road-free-wheeling-kit-install.html

 

[Wayne M.]

RBertalatto, that's a nice blog you have, but I do have some issues with your work.
I don't like jacking up one side to do a large job like this. Mainly because you'll need to move the steering back and forth, and doing so with one tire on the ground causes a lateral push/pull and could unsettle the Jack/ stand supporting the truck. I also am not happy with your point of support under the suspension arm bracket, with what looks like a weak sheet metal stand and 2 ton (?) Jack.
Invest in good 3 or 5 ton tall stands, and a good Jack. Not crazy about Chinese stuff, but harbor freight will do.
My choice support points for the front end are either on the tube near the arms or the crux just behind the lower arm bracket on the chassis. Raise one side at a time, and don't worry about losing some oil. Make sure to set the parking brake and/ or chock the wheels.
Lifting any vehicle is serious business.

Packing bearings is is going the way of tuning a carburetor. Scarce to see someone doing it properly. Here's a you tube https://youtu.be/EejeCYVBpH0
of the proper way without a tool. Be sure to use the correct weight wheel bearing grease in a tub- not chassis lube.

The truck is heavy. Work safe!

The Spyntec also uses stock Dana 60 bearings, locks, etc. they're so long because they use a stock D60 outer shaft. Newer kits are low profile and the shaft, spindle, and hub are all shortened proportionately.

 

[EDankievitch]

By far the best improvement you can do to your truck. Saves fuel and your transfercase.

 

[Kirwin]

Well keep in mind that the 2013 and later 3500s and the 2014 and later 2500s utilize a center axle disconnect system, so the front axle is disengaged unless your in 4WD. Now that being said, the half shafts still rotate unlike in the Spyntec set up where they are disconnected at the wheel.

 

[jhenderson]

I agree that the truck handles better with locking hubs. Mileage, not so much. I installed them on my 04 to get 2 wheel low. Never saw a measurable gain in mileage and I have over 385, 000 miles of fuel records to back that up. That's on a truck that didn't have the CAD system so the results should have been more pronounced than 13.5 and up.

 

[Regcabguy]

No fuel economy increase here but shutting down all that rotational mass has got to be beneficial. I don't expect to be buying u-joints anytime soon. The stockers were replaced during the install process.