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Hey gang;
I have a problem, I ordered my truck as a 2500 Shortbed. Now I need more tires out back! I don't need the tires for towing or hauling, just more traction. Through nescesity, I need a mud tire (BFG 285s), however, the low contact patch of these tires, coupled with some BOMBing and DTT transmission, I'm using up these tires! The LSD doesen't even help, now both tires will light up #ad
. I am thinking about those cheap Arrowcraft kinda boltons, but that just doesn't seem safe. Could I use these kinda of kits or should I try to find at a junk yard: a Dana 80 with 4. 10 and LSD, front hubs off of a 3500 Dana 60 and some fenders that I can attach to my short bed.
What do yall think?
Should I just deal with it? Or get a lift and slap some bigger meats on under there?
Help, Josiah

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YP of SETDR
Y2K 2500, 4X4, Auto, Quad Cab, SWB, 4. 10, Black. Hot Power Edge, DTT TC and VB, Line-X, PE Roll top bed cover, Stainless add-ons. Jardine 4".
 
Put about 1000 lbs of weight in the back and go easy on the accelerator. #ad


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Tom W in Austin Tx 98 24v 2500 Quadcab, auto, 3. 54, lsd, Rhino, white/driftwood, Banks Stinger Plus, 275 injectors, Manix grill, nerf bars , DTT's TC, valvebody, cooler, Mag-hytec trans & diff, Pac brake.
 
B/U,
Let me dispell a myth right here and now: The dual rear wheel axles are the same as the single wheel axles.

No, really. I researched this when looking for a cheap CTD 4x4 almost 4 years ago. Specificaly, I was looking at buying a chassis/cab and putting a pickup box on it. (Long story there. ) Looked in the dealers parts lists at the differences between complete replacement axles. They are the same.

At the front, there is an adapter that slips over the normal hubs and and is held on with nuts like a wheel. It has another set of studs that the wheel connects to. This extends the wheel mounting surface out a few inches to correct the wheel offset of the dually wheel.

At the rear, there is no difference except the wheels themselves and the fender extensions.

The fender extensions attatch to a standard box with an extra hole cut in it for the fuel fill line. The standard fuel hole, with mounting holes for the door, is there also.

As far as mounting the fenders-Good Luck. I think it could be done but the extensions are almost as long as the box side on a short box.

For big tires on a dually, you need the new (99 and up I think) wheels (and front adapters, they changed when the wheels changed). I have seen on other posts that people are running 255-85-16 without rub but that potential could limit the load carrying capacity.

My standard cab 4x4 looks like a short box with no topper on it.

I'd opt for the tires. How about 4 slicks?!? #ad


Eric
"Go forth and modify. "



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'94 3500 4x4, 209,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: X-Mount Mirrors, 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"
 
What you need is a pair of the new Michelin "super singles"- they are 455-50-22. 5's !!!

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.
 
thge rear brake shoes are wider on the duallys,and the chassis cab axle is to narrow for a pickup bed,the inside duals will be inside the wheel well.
 
Just had another thought:
Lund box flares (look like mini dually fenders) and a set of Mickey Thompsons. I don't recall the sizes but they make a set of MT looking tires that are the same dia but different widths. I think they were 17 wide (rear) and 12 or so (front).
2 drawbacks:
1) 15 inch (don't know if wheel will clear brake drums).
2) The rears were 345 bananas each.

Would look #ad
!
 
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