Stages and costs

[NDearyan]

OK as I gather it, there are stages on how much power (&$) you can spend on one of these.



It looks like stage one: Pyro gauge, Boost gauge, and Tach.

How much is a reasonable cost for these? I've been to a bunch of web sites, and they ain't posted.



Stage 2: Aftermarket intake air filter. Cost? looks like $300.



Stage 3: Turn up the injector pump (I don't know how)



Stage 4: Oversized exhaust.



Stage 5: Aftermarket injectors.



Anyway, Please give me some GENERAL idea on costs to do these things.

I already put VALVOLINE fuel injector cleaner (says it is endorsed by Cummins) in it, and got 10-15% more power, and a much better running engine. I guess mine needed it.

I don't really want to do anything that could or would harm my engine. So, it looks like the gauges are first.



Thanks.



Nate

 

[ARedetzke]

Stage 1: My tach was about $100, once I finally put it in, rest of the gauges were already there, but I would probably budget for about $200 for the boost and pyro. That should be in the ball park

Stage 2 Just put on a BHAF and rig up a way to hang it where the stock box is. Stock box will have to be removed. Cost $50

Stage 3 Learn how, it's easy and fun, and most importantly FREE. Just find the diagrams of where everything is and you'll be fine. I think Pastor Bob has some posted in his galleries. DO NOT be afraid of your pump, I know it's daunting, but IT"S JUST A PUMP, they're easy once you get the hang of it.

Stage 4 I just went to the 3 in straight pipe, which should be fine for you to start with. Just take a sawzall and cut out the muffler and CAT (if you have one), go down to the local muffler house and tell them you want a piece of 3 inch pipe of what ever length, and have them flare the ends to fit over 3 inch pipe, then buy 2 clamps. You really should weld the back joint because the overlap will be backwards, unless you take the tip down and have it flared instead of one end of the pipe. Then all you have to do it bolt it up and weld in some hangers. Having a welder makes this a lot easier, but surely you know someone that has one. Cost $25-$50 depending on how much pipe you need

Stage 5 PODs from PDR are listed at $440, and again, not a bad install, the biggest pain is bleeding the fuel system once you're done.

Hope this helps, if I'm outta line on anything someone chime in

AJ

 

[Greenleaf]

I was thinking I had read the Pastor Bob Mod Stages. Stage 5 is like netting you 400 to 500 HP and involves removing the head/marine pistons/girdling the block etc.



Everything you listed is all stage one I think, save for the POD injectors. That's #2 I think.



-S

 

[JLEONARD]

I think Nate is more referring to his own plan not necessarily the "stages" per PB.

I also did my mods in increments... those were generally to PB's stages, but I couldn't tell you what stage I'm really on right now... . probably somewher between 1 and 3 perhaps, but my increments were many... and are still continuing I might add





Nate... . perhaps you should think about changing turbo exhaust housing size / new or modified turbo to the list somewhere... ... sounds like you'll be at that door soon ennough.

Bomb on... ... ... ... ... ...

Jay

 

[bgilbert]

STAGE 1:

#1 Boost gauge: $30-50. Get at least a 40psi.

#2 Pyro: $100-200. This will be the most work of the three, drill and tap the manifold, possibly remove the turbo, clean up/out metal shavings.

#3 Tach: el cheapo to $$ I paid $85 for Isspro alternator tach.

-> As far a gauge prices, I know Geno's advertises prices, but most of the time, you just can call the vendor and tell them what you want, to get the price.

STAGE 2: A BHAF can be had for $40-50. Or a free mod can be removing or drilling holes in the factory airbox to increase airflow. Stay away from the $60-70 K&N air filter. Free mod, would be remove the airbox and just let the factory intake with airfilter attached to it sit on the fenderwell. You now have opened the intake up a bit. Stay away from the $60-70 K&N air filter. Fuy a BHAF from a place that sells fleetguard filters or any parts store, run a search for BHAF, everybody carrys one. Fleetguard pn AH19037, Napa 2790.

STAGE 3: injection pump mods, most of them are all free, read through this forum, stickies, search and you will find all the free mods.

STAGE 4: larger exhaust, you will find that staying with the 3" factory will support you horses just fine up to alot of ponies, as JD would tell you 3" will be fine up to I think 350hp. Get rid of the muffler and install a section of 3" straight pipe, cheap install.

STAGE 5: injectors: PDR advertises prices, looks as though our choices are Bosch 190's, PODS, then EDM's which are new and expensive.



It all depends on what you want to do with the truck. If you tow with it, you probly won't want to put big PODS in it and have insane pump mods done to cause you EGT's will run out of control. If its just a daily driver and you wanna hotrod it everynow and then, then go for the PODS. Lets see what you will have in it, $40 for boost, $120 for pyro, $85 for tach, $40 for BHAF, $30 for straight pipe, got my PODS from ebay for $320 but don't tell anyone, lets see with this and the free mods that can be done, we've spent $635. And after Scheid diesel extravagansa when I get on the rollers, I will tell you what hp increase one will get for that much, I imagine someone else can fill you in on that one. Then one could spend that much again on a hx-35 turbo upgrade.

 

[dpuckett]

Bill, I'd bet you've never owned a 93. If not, you dont know they changed the filter assembly slightly, and deleted the bolt through the center of the filter; thus he has to go to a BHAF, or keep the airbox for sealing purposes. Unless he gets a K&N, in which case there IS no difference and it wont matter... ... .



Anyway, gauges first. I got pyro, boost, and an a-pillar mount for $200 delivered to my door from DIS in TX. www.dieselpage.com



You can get quite a bit out of the pump, and you probably wont use the extra power more than 10% of the time, so the extra stress wont be that big an issue. Going 65mph is 65mph- takes the same power to move down the road, whether you have 160 or 400 horses AVAILABLE. Figure on an extra $100-120 for a tach and mount. OR go for 3 gauge mount and forget the second pod.



Smaller exhaust housing would be the first real MOD, IMO. You will gain spoolup & peak boost, and lower EGTs. With your 3. 54s, you might get away with a 12cm housing, but I'd recommend a 14 or 16. Heck, I'm still running the 18 on mine; had to repace the turbo, and the PDR unit was used at the right time and price. tried a 12, and it didnt agree with my 4. 10 gears and heavy-ish foot. Spooled QUICK, though.



INjectors vary from the prices listed on PDR's site to about $800 for flow-more-than-PODs EDM injectors. Power inecreases range from 30hp to 90hp.



I'd highly recommend a 4" exhaust. True, you may not gain any POWER, but you will free up the turbo to breathe easier, and spool faster. With my 18cm housing, I gained 3-4psi peak boost over stock 3. " Lowered EGTs by 50-75deg at cruise, 100* peak.



If your engine suffers from Shrunken Manifold Syndrome, get an ATS 3 piece manifold. It is stronger, (shrink resistant) and the 3 pieces leave only two cylinders for each piece to handle, instead of 6 for the stock 1-piece.



HAve fun spending money on the old thing. AS the miles rack up, you have valid excuses to BOMB.



Daniel