Attention: TDR Forum Junkies For those of you who have replaced the original control arm bushings with OEM-style rubber bushings, did you do something to "stake" or otherwise crimp or expand the non-flanged side of the new bushing to prevent the control arm from walking sideways on the bushing sleeve over time? This probably sounds confusing.
It sounds like most people opt to use the poly bushings (like Energy Suspension) as replacements, but I wanted the greater flex and no squeeks provided by rubber bushings, so I used NAPA replacements that look like the originals. As a result, I completely removed the old bushings from the control arms since I didn't have to reuse the outer metal sleeve like you do when using the poly bushings. I noticed the factory bushings had four spots around the circumference of the non-flanged side of the outer metal sleeve that had been expanded outward to effectively "lock" the bushing in place on the control arm. I had to use a hammer and punch to smooth those areas back in line with the rest of the sleeve so I could drive the bushing out.
If any of you know what I'm talking about, did you duplicate the factory technique on the replacement bushings? What did you use to do it? They aren't exactly staked like you would do with a chisel, and I don't want to split the metal sleeve. I'm having a hard time getting a punch on the edge to drive it outward. Any advice/experiences would be appreciated . . .
CTD12V
It sounds like most people opt to use the poly bushings (like Energy Suspension) as replacements, but I wanted the greater flex and no squeeks provided by rubber bushings, so I used NAPA replacements that look like the originals. As a result, I completely removed the old bushings from the control arms since I didn't have to reuse the outer metal sleeve like you do when using the poly bushings. I noticed the factory bushings had four spots around the circumference of the non-flanged side of the outer metal sleeve that had been expanded outward to effectively "lock" the bushing in place on the control arm. I had to use a hammer and punch to smooth those areas back in line with the rest of the sleeve so I could drive the bushing out.
If any of you know what I'm talking about, did you duplicate the factory technique on the replacement bushings? What did you use to do it? They aren't exactly staked like you would do with a chisel, and I don't want to split the metal sleeve. I'm having a hard time getting a punch on the edge to drive it outward. Any advice/experiences would be appreciated . . .
CTD12V
