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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Star wheel

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) HOT transmission

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Hey Guys,

I'm a new member and have recently purchased a 94 2500 2wd reg. cab and I have been reading everything on this site,it is great. I don't have money to start the bombing yet so I have been reading everything I can find about the p7100 pump. My truck appears to be completely stock with 218K on it. I plan on doing the BHAF and strait pipe before doing anything else. My ques. is what pump would I have a 160,180,or 215 and leaving everything else alone would turning the star wheel be worth it with just the strait pipe and BHAF. My truck has no smoke even a full throttle and while I don't want huge black clouds I would like a little smoke at heavy throttle. How many turns would be safe for my truck and give a little more low boost power and some smoke. I figure you guys will say get a fuel plate or slide the AFC forward but I want to save that for when I can get some guages. Thanks in advance for your input.
 
Personally, I wouldn't do anything unless I have guages. Yes, you can turn the star up or down a little bit without any ill effects, but without any guages how can you be sure? You have an eleven year old truck, how can you be sure that no one else has messed with the star in the past? If you mess with the star now, how do you know you won't be adjusting it into a position that is going to cause a problem especially without any guages? A westach combo guage from Genos is around 250, a TST plate is also 250, your exhaust should be around 500 give or take, the intake is around 250 - 400 depending on which AFE you buy, cheaper if you get a generic BHAF.

Since you're on a budget (like most of us) plan out what you want to do and take it step by step. I would do a guage first, then exhaust, intake, new plate or adjustments, in that order.
 
The star wheel only affects pre-boost fueling. After boost reaches a certain level, the star wheel is out of play. You can get away with that without worrying about high EGT. Anything else you do to increase fueling you WILL need gauges. If your truck has an automatic transmission you have the 160 pump. If it's manual you have a 175. If you do anything at all to the truck you will need the service manual. Don't waste your money on an after market cheapo manual. Get the real thing from Dodge. It will pay for itself quickly. It's a good idea to establish a performance goal before doing any mods. Saves money in the long run.
 
I agree with George G.

Get Dodge manuals. Get boost and Egt gauges. Obtain, and record boost and temperature under loaded conditions so you have a base to work with.

I like to take data before any mod. I have a nice hill nearby which can provide data on boost at several rpm points (wot). The hill also provide acceleration data, both before and after changes. You might be supprised with the results you get from some of these changes, but good data is much better than a "seat of the pants" evaluation.

Rog
 
I agree that gauges are good, but a 160 or 175 pump w/ stock injectors and no load out back isn't going to get too hot... you could remove the AFC spring and the plate all together and as long as you didn't stay in it for more than 45 seconds or so, you'd never have a concern IMHO.



Forrest
 
Thanks guys, it is a stick so I its the 175 pump. I know both previous owners so I am sure the truck is all stock. I only asked this ques because star wheel adjustment really seemed to wake up my old first gen but had no effect on the highway and I just wondered if it was the same with this pump
 
yes... stock 175 pump and injectors and stock plate full foward will be fine IMHO.



obviously gauges are golden, but untill you get them in, just don't hold WOT for more than 45 seconds or so.



I know some will gasp at this suggestion, but at one point my truck had 215 pump, #6 plate full forward, 370 injectors, and it was mis-timed at 12. 5*... all with a stock turbo... I know all about heat, and your truck ain't gonna make enough to hurt anything!
 
Hey surfbeetle,

Did you come all the way to Texas for your conversion?The website really only shows them from the outside,If you have any interior pics I would like to see them and how much does it cost?
 
Yes, I drove 18 hours non stop from San Diego to Muleshoe Texas to get the conversion done, took an extended weekend. I have had it since May and am very pleased with it. Had to get a slider hitch for the fifth wheel, the bed ends up being about 5 1/2 feet long. Also, I got the smaller size, 29 inches, They also do a larger size, I think was 32 inches. The rear seat slides forward, the back lays down and makes a small bed. There was a write up about three issues in the TDR, that's how I found out about it. When I got out to McKinley's they had a white 3rd gen dually quad cab that they own. It had a sleeper added, it had three rows of seats and was very nice. I took these photos just now with my cell phone, sorry they are not the best quality, but you will get a better view of the interior than what's on their page. As for cost, the conversion starts around $3,800. Mine was more as I added a power sliding rear window, three back seat headrests, cb antenna bracket and inserts for rear speakers. It totaled to be around $4,300. IMHO, it was well worth it. I have had the truck since new and it's paid for, I did not want to buy a new one just yet. I am holding out for a mega with an 8 foot bed if that ever happens.
 
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thanks for the pics,This looks like it would be ideal on a quad cab,maybe someday,It is nice to know their is someone out their that does this kind of work.
 
Well I turned it a few turns ,haven't driven it yet. The gasket or washer that goes on the plug was missing,no leaks but where can I get another one. Also it was kinda of hard to turn with a srew driver is that normal and how many revolutions is a good place to start. thanks.
 
my truck never had a washer on it, and the wheel does require a fair amount of tension to turn, so no worries on either end there...



I would crank it all the way forward and slide the AFC housing forward when you slide the plate forward ;)
 
Any good articles with pics on doing this. I have looked at the dodgedieseldatabase article but I can't quite visualize where the fuel plate is and is it the afc housing you slide forward,because the three bolts and the security screw holes don't appear to be slotted. Thanks for your patience and knowledge for the new guy.
 
I turned mine toward the engine 4 clicks, then 8 clicks, and feel like it has a little more acceleration in the 1450-1600 rpm range on a hill, unloaded(well, tools and camper shell). It doesn't seem like enough clicks to make much of a difference but it seems to have... This truck has always seemed a little sluggish on the low end compared to other 180 pump automatics I've driven(all stock). Definitely more sluggish than the 5 speed trucks I've driven! ;)
 
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