Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Start Up Oil Pressure, In 6-8 Seconds?

[RHestand]

My 98 12V stays outside, 24/7.

This morning (at -16*) I fired it up, with white smoke, eng. shaking, and generally not liking the cold weather.

I immediately brought it to 900-1000 RPMs, and it took about 6-8 seconds ( guessing) for the oil pres. needle to kick up. Is this too long?

I was getting worried, and was going to shut it down, then it got pressure, smoothed out and ran fine.

I've got about 1000 mi. on Rotella syn. 5W40, and I had plugged it in for about two hrs. before starting.

I didn't here any rods or main sounds, but I'm used to 2 or 3 seconds, then good oil pressure.

Is this just more cold weather symptoms?

What do guys think? TIA,RAY

 

[DCreed]

I would think that is normal under -16* circumstances. If you are in that temp often, I would go to a tractor dealer and get a dipstick or magnetic oil pan heater. Block heater is heating the coolant/head but not the oil pan. Oddly the thinner oils flow better when cold but dont draw as easily (pump cavitation)upon cold start-up.

 

[hsmith]

Don't think you have a problem there. Also the engine smoothing out when oil pressure came up is just a coincidence.

 

[FourBarR]

Would not worry about that,we allow 30 sec,on piston engines in airplanes.

 

[fest3er]

Back when my oil pressure sender first quit, the dealer told me I would have heard very quickly if oil pressure had been lost.

If you have good oil in the pan and you don't hear/feel mechanical noise, you should remain wary, but you shouldn't panic if the indicator doesn't come up for a little while.

 

[Hammer]

My 12v sits outside at work all day and into the night without any aid of the block heater. I run Schaeffer X200 synthetic in mine and when the temps drop like they have this week it may take a bit for the sender to show pressure. I am in agreement with Neal on this one as long as you do not hear any mechanical noises then you will be OK. With it so cold out here and the timing I run mine when started rips and snorts like a old Mack. At times it seems like your fogging for misquitos with all the smoke and as it warms it goes to purring like its supposed to.



As for your block heater... .

IMO 2 hours is not enough time to warm the motor up for a clean start. While at home when its this cold I leave mine plugged all night long. When I am ready to leave for work I slip the key in and the WTS light goes out quickly and it fires off like it does on a warm day. Try keeping it plugged longer and see if that helps you some... ... . Andy

 

[fest3er]

Oh, yeah. If you have an auto, rev the engine up to 1200 RPM or so and slip it into gear as soon as you think the engine won't stall and keep the RPM at 1200-1500. With your foot on the brake! A couple minutes of running in gear at 1200-1500 RPM will warm up the cylinders right quick, especially if the intake heaters are on. At 1200-1500 RPM, the intake heaters won't cycle. And five minutes of this will have the engine and trans nicely warm (not hot), even at 0F. Or colder. And if you do have an auto, you probably don't need to plug it in. Cycle the heaters 2-3 times and it'll fire right up. Then do the above.

Remember, a diesel won't heat up unless you work it. Dad's Town Car has heat one mile down the road (even here in not-so-cold VA); My truck won't have heat for another 5 miles. Or more. With an auto, you can work it while stopped. Manual trans? Get an ebrake; that'll be the most work you can get from the engine until you start driving. Or stuff a potato up the tail pipe.

BTW, right now it's +4F here in the Roanoke area. That's downright nippy for this area. 10's about the coldest its gotten in recent years; 20F's a more typical nightly low. Yeah, yeah I know. There are places much colder. Places I sometimes miss. Where I used to wear my wool socks and sandals when it was -20F because they were warmer than 'civilized' footwear. But I rejoice when a day is cold enough here to wear my woolies and sandals! If it stays cold tomorrow, I may have to go shopping tomorrow just to show how we Yankees stay warm.

 

[RHestand]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

DCreed:That mag. htr. Do you just stick it on, and leave it all winter?

FourBarR: Wow, 30 seconds? I would definately be sitting there with my hand on the mag. switch, listening for metal to metal Knocking sounds.

fest3er: Yes, I've been trying that. (I read it on a prev. post. It might hae been yours. ) It works great!

TIA,Ray

 

[DCreed]

If you want to leave it on I would do a dipstick heater.

 

[EKlem]

They also make pan heaters that you actually glue to the bottom of your oil pan. They seem to work pretty well and you just leave them there.

 

[robbiesworld]

I had the same problem with my truck and I found a really easy fix for it.



Step one. Dont look at the oil pressure guage for at least 10 seconds after starting.

 

[RHestand]

robbiesworld,

Old habits are hard to break.

Ray

 

[ZBrown]

Oh, yeah. If you have an auto, rev the engine up to 1200 RPM or so and slip it into gear as soon as you think the engine won't stall and keep the RPM at 1200-1500. With your foot on the brake! A couple minutes of running in gear at 1200-1500 RPM will warm up the cylinders right quick, especially if the intake heaters are on. At 1200-1500 RPM, the intake heaters won't cycle. And five minutes of this will have the engine and trans nicely warm (not hot), even at 0F. Or colder. And if you do have an auto, you probably don't need to plug it in. Cycle the heaters 2-3 times and it'll fire right up. Then do the above.

Sorry to kind of hi jack the thread but i have a relevant Q for you or anyone else.



I live up north and it is cold the majority of the time, and when i let the truck idle I see 200* or less for EGT's. So what i have done for the past 2 years is set the E brake, and let the truck idle in gear... ... ... bumps my EGT's right to 350-375 and seems to work flawlessly



I don't have a transmission temp gauge so don't know what the transmission temps do... . but I have let it idle like this for extended periods with out any problems.



Do you think i am killing my transmission or causing any other unseen harm??

 

[Forrest Nearing]

put a mechanical gauge on it and see what the real scoop is

 

[JUeckert]

i have three 12v's in trucks, one in a gmc i did a conversion on, the other two in early model dodges. all three take a few seconds to move the oil pressure gauge. they seem to react much slower then my gm or ford diesels do. this being said, plugging them up over night, or cranking them in summer, cuts the time down a bit, but the needle response is still slow in my opinion. i have also noticed this same trait in my 5. 9 powered equipment/tractors. another trait i noticed with the dodges, when ideling real low, and loading the engine[put in gear,drive], the oil warn light will flicker/come on. i installed a mechanical gauge in another oil supply point, and took a reading. oil pressure was still in the 15lb ish range. it would also quickly respond according to the fuel pedal.

 

[fest3er]

Sorry to kind of hi jack the thread but i have a relevant Q for you or anyone else.



I live up north and it is cold the majority of the time, and when i let the truck idle I see 200* or less for EGT's. So what i have done for the past 2 years is set the E brake, and let the truck idle in gear... ... ... bumps my EGT's right to 350-375 and seems to work flawlessly



I don't have a transmission temp gauge so don't know what the transmission temps do... . but I have let it idle like this for extended periods with out any problems.



Do you think i am killing my transmission or causing any other unseen harm??

I think as long as it is quite cold (below 10F or so) and your idle is 750-850 RPM (that is, not excessive), you should be OK. But might be worth checking the trans case temp with an IR thermometer, though. If that stays 'cool-ish', then you're OK; if the trans gets too hot after a while, you might want to reconsider. However, considering the temps you see, I'll bet the trans never overheats when idling in gear like that.



One thing to remember. You want the engine temp to be over about 140F to avoid fuel condensing on the cylinder walls and washing the oil (lube) off. Putting the trans in gear makes the engine work just enough to keep its temp high enough. At -20F, you might need to boost the engine 100-200 RPM; over 0F, normal idle should be enough. Over 15F, you shouldn't need to idle in gear.



N

 

[JUeckert]

if you are worried about transmission temps, put your transmission into the neutral position, if it's safe to do so. [need a good park break] putting the transmission in neutral will allow the fluid to pump and circulate better . a friend of mine who builds trannys, swears this is one thing that will help make a auto last longer.

 

[Bob4x4]

The oil pressure is not the problem. the signal is slow due to how it operates not the oil pressure coming up slow. The 24 valve presure is very quick to come up the way the oiling is done so no worries.



Bob

 

[ZBrown]

I think as long as it is quite cold (below 10F or so) and your idle is 750-850 RPM (that is, not excessive), you should be OK. But might be worth checking the trans case temp with an IR thermometer, though. If that stays 'cool-ish', then you're OK; if the trans gets too hot after a while, you might want to reconsider. However, considering the temps you see, I'll bet the trans never overheats when idling in gear like that.



One thing to remember. You want the engine temp to be over about 140F to avoid fuel condensing on the cylinder walls and washing the oil (lube) off. Putting the trans in gear makes the engine work just enough to keep its temp high enough. At -20F, you might need to boost the engine 100-200 RPM; over 0F, normal idle should be enough. Over 15F, you shouldn't need to idle in gear.



N

thank you.