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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Starter fails to disengage-burns up?

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Well it happened on my first startup Sun AM and engine started immediately but I immediately realized starter did not release and no movement of key helped. And it would not move out of "park" position. This is the first such episode. Did have to replace the relay for fuel solinoid few years back. So I need refreshed on what likely needs replaced.



Engine continued to idle with ignition off and was slowed down within some minutes and killed by starter seizing up, I guess. Several years back I put in the heavier starter contacts, etc just as a precaution. But that did not prevent this disaster. :( I could not remember quick enough what to do but removing battery ground did not help starter to disengage or I was to slow in removing it. Finally it started smoking from either the starter or pullup solinoid. Would pulling out relay have helped?



Is it likely that starter is unrebuildable? and any opinions on rebuild versus new and good sources to buy. Thanks. :(
 
I wouldnt attempt a rebuild after heating the starter coils that much. . you would need to replace:



Starter, fuel shutdown solenoid, fuel solenoid relay... Might want to inspect some of the wiring to the starter, solenoid, and surrounding area for any burn. Someone else may suggest replacing somethin else... (solenoid -might- not be bad, you can test both leads for ohms, if you have resistance on both, it should work)



ebay has some good prices on starters... here's one for 121$ shipped. -- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994...003QQitemZ130011750487QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW



and a shutdown solenoid for 139$ plus ship --- http://cgi.ebay.com/Dodge-Cummins-D...oryZ1267QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Might want to try one of these with your new rebuild -- http://www.fostertruck.com/sol-saverdiode.htm





good luck



-j
 
When the starter sticks like that, the only way to stop it is to disconnect both battery cables. Either both positive cables or both ground cables. You probably couldn't have done it fast enough.

I had the very same thing happen to me a couple of months ago. Not a pretty thing.



Your shutdown solenoid is most likely burned too.

I bought new parts from Piers. I was leery about getting them off eBay.

I didn't check the new starter before I installed it but the new contact sets have a silver alloy inlay in the contact that goes on the battery cable side of the starter.

I think that is the one that burns the most because of the direction of current flow.

And as tpOd noted, get a diode for the shutdown solenoid circuit and you won't lose it again due to a sticking starter.

Your shutdown solenoid relay is probably OK.



One option to disengage the starter when it sticks is to carry a big hammer. Crawl under the truck and smack the starter until the contacts break loose.

(I am not too crazy about that idea but I have heard that it works. )

Others have suggested a large knife switch in the starter cable. That would be my choice.
 
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Starter survived! -need further ideas

OK, took starter to local shop thinking it must be shot. After all, it was engaged to flywheel gear with an idling engine that slowly came to a stop. My theory was incorrect, the starter was not destroyed and locked up. It benched tested and spun freely although the gear did not at first retract but then it did thereafter engage and retract ok. And sounded fine on bench test. Probably (after 220k miles) should have it opened up and serviced while its out.



So, what caused the engine to gradually slow down after it idled for it seemed a good 5 minutes with the starter engaged. Ignition key did nothing once it started, in other words I could not kill the fueling nor would it shift out of park (although in the excitement could I have forgot to step on brake. The engine could be throttled up but I was only testing and not wanting to further race the engaged starter. Several small wires are burned in two. I suspect the fuel solenoid and/or that and wiring were source of the eventual smoke that showed only later and lasted probably 30 seconds to a minute then finally engine slowed very gradually to a stop and it was turning very very slowly at the last.



So was the fuel cutoff finally kicking in somehow to slowly stop engine? I did attempt to pop the solenoid rod down from a lockup position with a long screw driver but was never sure of my success as I was fearful of burning my hand and arm reaching down to verify its movement. Will be removing solenoid next, but it does seem to freely move up and down manually.



Is there any serious downside to converting to a manual fuel shutoff. Also need to dig up options Howard Durand, such as diod. Tomorrow I will report on the life or death of the solenoid.



Comments or references on forum greatly appreciated. :)
 
My question would be, was the engine running on fuel or was it turning because the starter was stuck? When my problem occurred, I had started the truck and drove it about a mile through town before the solenoid failed and the truck came to a halt alongside the road. At that time, it continued to turn over ever more slowly like it was trying to run but starving for fuel. Then it quit completely. I later realized that the fuel had been shut off by the failure of the solenoid and that the starter was turning the engine. I think it quit when the starter finally disengaged.

Even though the starter would still operate, I removed it and took it apart. It was smoked up pretty bad and the contacts were badly worn but I think it could be cleaned up and re-built. The coils appear to be OK, the starter solenoid is good and the armature is not damaged but I will replace the brushes. I don't know if it would be cost effective to have a shop rebuild it but if you can find a good auto-electric shop have them give you an estimate. I paid about $325 for mine from Piers. I would be a bit careful about buying one from eBay.
 
I think the first thing I would probably do if this happens to me would be to unplug the fuel solenoid to stop the engine running on fuel then go after the batteries to stop the cranking. I personally carry a 1/2" wrench on the floor in front of my seat for this if it ever happens. I too have the big contacts.
 
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