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Starter quit working

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JHylton

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My '91 has suddenly decided to quit starting. Starter makes the sound that sounds like the battery is dead/almost dead. Battery is fully charged and terminals/cables are nice and clean. Lights are bright, horn is loud, everything else electrically powered works great. This just happened suddenly. Do the starters/or solenoid relays on these rigs tend to quit suddenly? Past experience with other cars/trucks is that starters generally start acting up or giving signs they are about to quit working. This one didn't. I went out one day and it cranked slowly - like a low battery - but it did fire up. A couple weeks later I went to start it and nothing. The weather here has been too wet/cold to crawl under the truck and work on it.
 
Sounds like a case of fried contacts inside. Replacing the contacts and plunger is a simple and cheap (<$20) repair. I'm sure Geno's has them or eBay, amazon, etc.

Don't put it off too long, the next step is for the starter to work and not shut off. (until you pull battery connections)
 
My 91 had same symtoms years ago with about the same miles, it ended up being the brushes in the starter. I replaced brushes and contacts in the solenoid and have another 200,000 mile still running strong.
Hyperpack
 
We only had to replace our starter one time on our 1996. The starter plunger and oversized contacts did the truck for us and we sold it at 341,758 miles. I have them if you need them. Hugs, Di
 
OK all of you CTD experts...How in the world do you get to starter bolt #3.....the one between the starter and the engine block? I removed the outside two with no trouble, but the third one is trying my patience ! The difficulty stems from the heavy plastic crankcase breather tube that is wedged between the starter and the block. I disconnected it from the fitting on the upper side of the block and can wiggle it a bit in either direction, but that's about it. I am trying to figure a way to cut the thing off/out and when I replace it, I will reroute it outside of the starter. Also, did any of you have to remove the oil dipstick tube as well? What should be a very simple task is becoming a waaaay too difficult adventure !
 
Thanks DVolk.........that is who I bought my contacts and brush kit from....looks to be good quality parts !
 
W
OK all of you CTD experts...How in the world do you get to starter bolt #3.....the one between the starter and the engine block? I removed the outside two with no trouble, but the third one is trying my patience ! The difficulty stems from the heavy plastic crankcase breather tube that is wedged between the starter and the block. I disconnected it from the fitting on the upper side of the block and can wiggle it a bit in either direction, but that's about it. I am trying to figure a way to cut the thing off/out and when I replace it, I will reroute it outside of the starter. Also, did any of you have to remove the oil dipstick tube as well? What should be a very simple task is becoming a waaaay too difficult adventure !

This thread may give you some ideas....

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...val-wrenches-heads-up!?highlight=Starter+bolt

Mike.
 
you need a 10 point wrench or or socket its a pain just got to screw with it take the hard one first but crack them all loose first
 
On two of my 3 trucks the inner bolt you mention was stuck and came out hard all the way. I had long 1/2 drive extensions and long handle ratchet, that bolt it unbreakable, I do remember using a heat gun to soften the breather hose to get it out of the way. A good way to clean the pulled aluminum out of the bolt threads is a little warm water with Lye and soak the bolt, just a couple minutes and its clean as new.
Hyperpack
 
3/8 driver and enough extensions and a wably ex on the end for angle and #10 socket with the 12 point configuration in it. Removed the stud and re-installed it. BUT leave the others in with a few threads to hold the starter in place till your ready to remove it. Other wise your going to dent your face when the thing DROPS.
 
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