Archived Starter still engaged with key off

[vssman]

I started the truck today and heard a strange noise and decided to shut down the engine. It won't stop. So I pulled the shutdown relay connections and it is still cranking and now shaking and finally quits. I restarted several times and everything was fine. After searching several sites, I think I have sticking contacts or a bad relay. Anyway to tell for sure? Also, is there a way to quickly disengage the starter if it happens again before I can change the contacts?

 

[LandShark]

Sticking starter contacts is a common problem with our trucks. It will cause the problem you describe. Can be replaced for just a few bucks.

 

[Joe G.]

Get hold of LarryB for the extra heavy duty contacts. I'm not on my computer so I don't have the URL handy. Check out the banner advertisers. He is one of them.

 

[rhoads]

stuck starter

Having been in the heavy truck industery 1960-- we will call this starter run on--pay me if you call me out- OR-- jump out of the rig/veh grab your heavy hammer you carry in the tool kit,large rock will work,"with strong arm" with key off strike the starter with a hard blow to disengage the contacts---. Now if it has been running (starter) for 10 min's let it cool down . Ill bet my 96 It will will start with no problem And not reacure... However if you want me to replace the contacts depending where you live min 50 $ per hr plus parts.....

It has been my experance this will happen on a newer starter/sol and the mfg's suggest a lack of voltage(ie) loose cables-weak batt, darn cold, ect...

I had a driver come in to the yard on a sat morning, we were very busy,park his chrome plated rig and say Hi and go home and not say a word or write up a defect-- I know he stoped 10 miles west of town for breakfast,(found out later)--a couple hr's later i walked out in to the yard and heard this whine knew it was the starter running and ran for a hammer(faster than getting at the battery's cable's----hard blow and it disengaged and knew it would be a late day--10am--- starter hotter than the eng... Let it cool off. . 4:45 pm knowing this not going to be a fast job and should not start guess what--it did 12 times with out a hitch--that was with at 30k and when we passed it on at (next owner)with a min of 550 miles never failed again . with a fleet of 125 we saw it time and time again.

If you take the course they will say the cause is low voltage??? connections or some one just bumping the sw. But it WILL happen on a newer systemMine stuck at 60k and is still untouched except at the panic hammer approch to date min milage in bio.

 

[Deezul1]

So far I have fixed 4 starters that have done that and every time its the contacts in the starter relay, actually its 1 of the contacts that wears so badly, the other side usually just needs a polishing. When one side wears a lot and the other side doesnt that tends to cock the plunger in the solinoid bore and then it sticks and wont spring back when you let off the key, thats why a sharp blow with a hammer works so well. The other way to stop it is disconnect the batteries. I have put quick disconnects on the negative post on both batteries to keep from burning up an expensive starter if it happens again.

 

[LarryB]

Joe

I let my banner ad expire. I'll probably renew it in 2003. Anyway my address is www.fostertruck.com/dodge



Larry

 

[Missouri Mule]

and the starter solenoid contact that wears out is the battery cable contact.

You can wire brush the washer on the plunger also.



5/6-spds can try letting the clutch in and out with trans in high gear (5th or 6 th). This should knock starter gear backwords and reverse the starter sequence. Ignition can be left running or turned off (the whirring sound will stop and rpms will return to normal).

 

[rhoads]

sticking starter

D-1

is 50% correct to the point that disconnection of the Pos - or- ground (Neg)cable will stop the spinning starter... ...

How ever-- 1- time laps of getting the wrench and un hooking not just one cable but two (2 batterys) and in the rush remembering it has to be the same(+/-) as starter lif spins away.

(2) The other 90% of the 50%-when you re -hook the cables you will find the starter StiLL engaged!!!!!!!!!!!!

The contacts are still stuck--for those of you that have welded when the power is to low the electrode sticks to the metal. . you shut off power / or break contact by other means... If you just shut off power the rod/wire is-- What ??? Still stuck!!! Put on the + side you can now walk back for the hammer and grab a brew!!

Mfg's say this will happen more on newer units than old-- shops love it $$$ needless replacements-- and those in the know may use the hammer blow and charge for the replacement any(and the wise ripe off will be smart enough to hit the key a couple dozen thime to make sure it dosent reacure.

3--Mfg's claim the fault is low voltage. ----That ive have never ben able to prove or dis prove because no meters were hooked up when it happenedto record the draw at the time. .

 

[Deezul1]

The ones I have had apart havnt shown any sign of metal transfer from welded contacts and I wonder if a hammer blow would be enough to unweld them. My theory and its just a theory as there is no way to prove any of this, is the thickness difference between the heavily damaged contact and the other side which isnt hardly damaged at all is enough to cock the plunger in the barrel enough to cause the sticking and a hammer blow sets up enough vibration to let it walk back out again. If anyone ever figures it out for sure it would be nice to know but otherwise just change the contacts.

 

[illflem]

Deezul, I think you're right about the cocked plunger binding and sticking.

I've always just replaced the contacts on Cummins but have used the hammer method on other rigs with long term success like tdramrmbr. It's the only way to go if the starter sticks and has low miles or newly replaced contacts and shouldn't be worn. Think in these cases its a matter of the contacts not being totally worn into shape and sticking.