Starting Issue

[DRanger]

My 92 has been starting slow lately , and yeterday it just wouldn't start . Battery pus out 12. 2 volts and the starter recieves 12. 2 volts when I turn the key nothing happens. No click from the solenoid or spin from the starter . Any idea what it could be ?

 

[ZedMikey]

12. 2V is a little low. How old is the battery? Do you have the new battery cables on, yet?

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

First of all I have fought this problem as you are now doing. The first thing I would suggest you do is run a 14ga wire - use alligator clips on both ends. Clip one end to the starter solonoid, set the parking brake, put the transmission in neutral and flash the other end of that wire to the hot side of the battery. I would leave the key off and see how the starter spins. that will tell you how strong the starter is. If the starter does not spin strong enough I would boost the battery and see if that helps.



There is also a starter relay on the drivers side inside fenderwell which could also be part of the problem.



I could go on and on but that is a starting point. Let us know how everything works out.



What I have replaced:

I now use a dual battery setup.

Rebuilt alternator.

Rebuilt starter - lasted 6 months

Re-manufactured Cummins starter - thanks to Canada.

After market volt meter so I have a better feel for alternator output.



I now have a system that I swear I could drive the truck home on the starter.



BTW where in WA are you?



Bob

 

[DRanger]

My truck has a brand new alternator , new battery , new battery cables and a 2 year old starter . I will try what you stated above tommorow .

 

[DVolk]

I think a set of new starter contacts and relay may be in order and also check that fusible link as well

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

What guage battery cables did you use? Mine, which are original, are 2/0 welding cable. Remember you are turning over an engine with a 17. 1 to 1compression ratio. I will look in my FSM to pinpoint which one of the fender mounted relays is for the starter. it's possible that's your problem.



As DVolk stated you may need to rebuild the solonoid. My OEM starter did not have heavy duty contacts. I did replace them but only got about 6 months. When mine was rebuilt I was told that they used HD contacts. In addition I was told that the solonoid needs a minium of 9 volts.



Bob

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

There are 3 relays on the drivers side inner fender just in front of the hood hinge. The relay closest to the fire wall is the "A/C compressor clutch relay - the middle relay is the "engine starter relay" and the next one is "automatic shut down relay". All of these relays should have the same part number. You can switch one of the end two relays with the center relay and see what happens. If the starter relay is bad this should help.



I would also check the charging volts when it is running - it should be at about 13. 5 volts.



Bob

 

[DVolk]

Id also check the fusible link as well !!!!

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

As DVolk said with a "Dead" starting system you cannot ignore the fuseable links as a possible source of your problem.



Bob

 

[HHhuntitall]

Also, use a pair of jumper cables to go directly to the starter feed, bypassing the solenoid. If the brushes are bad in the starter, it won't turn over with 40volts and 2,000 amps. If it will turn over by directly bypassing the solenoid, then try directly actuating the solenoid on the starter, as Bob suggested above. If it will activate, then the problem is in the wire loom on the truck, most likely. Otherwise, it's the contacts in the solenoid on top of the starter.....



Recently, I installed a starter on a Jeep CJ. I was pretty hacked at Orielly's when I finally figured out the 2hr old starter wasn't any good. They treat me good, or I might have returned it through the front window.....

 

[DVolk]

I forgot one thing to try a good small on the starter with a hammer , Ive seen them just stick before and the jar makes them work

 

[AEdelheit]

I would suggest putting a volt meter on the starter lug while having someone turn the key to the start position, if the battery's are going bad they can read full voltage until you put a load on it then drop to 0 volts, if so also check it at the battries, if it's normal voltage in the start position then your looking at a cable or bad connection

Since you stated its been starting slow lately I don't suspect a relay or fusible link since that should cause an instant problem, though I have not dealt with 1st gens much so I'm Just going offs electrical knowledge

 

[DRanger]

I checked everything over then I tapped the starter with a hammer and it turned over weakly , Bought a new HD starter and problem solved . Thanks for all the input guys.

 

[DVolk]

Were you get your starter , my guess it has the small contacts in it ????

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I've had the '93 OEM starter apart and they did have the smaller contacts. These OEM starters were built by Denso I believe. I've also seen a Cummins remanufactured Denso with the HD - larger - contacts.



I also found that there were at least 2 different 1st Gen starters. My neighbors '91. 5 has a starter that is about 25% larger also with HD contacts. This starter, a Cummins remanufactured unit is the one I installed on my '93 to solve the same problem as stated above. The specs on the smaller unit and the larger unit are identical. This unit actually fits better and gives a little better clearance between the engine and the starter for the breather tube. The Cummins P/N for both are identical but I feel that the larger unit performs much better. If anyone is interested the Cummins P/N it is 360463000RX, weighs 22lbs and was remanufactured in Canada. They are not cheap but I will always pay more for this type of performance.



Bob

 

[DVolk]

My 92 had the small ones , I bought the contacts from Larry B's my only complaint they should have included or asked if i wanted new plastics as i had to rod a set from anouther starter as well as the brushes were not all that great as well