Archived starting problem and clutch problem.

[edgeman]

My 95 manuel just will not start somtimes. ANd before something happens and it wont start i need to get it fixed along with my clutch. First the starting. If the truck sits the whole night and i go to start it it will usually start with the turn of the key, now if i try after it has been running for a while i turn the key and nothing happens, so i hold it and hold it and after a while it will start. I tried a new relay and that didny help so now im down to ignition switch or starter selinoid. Now with the clutch that really isnt an emergency but i just need to know what gear the shifters need to be in to drop the trany and what pound i should torque the bolts on the fly wheel. Your help is greatly appriciated.

 

[rkressg]

The gears really do not matter on the transmission. Just put it into a gear.

The torque on the flywheel is around 100ft/lbs (at least that is what I use). Remember to step up the torque. Also, do not try and tap out the holes in the crank.

Changing a clutch on the 5-speed is not all that difficult, just take your time.

 

[Missouri Mule]

1. Trans needs to be in neutral not important when taking it out but very important when putting it back in. The spline/shaft needs to be able to free wheel to get the trans back in all the way.



2. Starting problems, sounds like the starter take it off and bring to auto electric shop, have it tested. When starters are going bad they are hard to get going when hot.

 

[edgeman]

hey thanks very much for the help. Im going to bring the starter in and have it looked at anyway then put larry b's starter contacts in. again thanks for the help.

 

[Missouri Mule]

edgeman, my 96 service manual states to tighten 5/16 bolts to 17 ft. lbs. and 3/8 bolts to 30 ft. lbs. for clutch cover. Also has bolt loosening /tighting pattern.

Would be a good idea to pick-up(buy) Dodge service manual. ( You can get one from Geno's Garage or Dodge dealer. )

 

[edgeman]

hey i will look into the manuel. so, when i pull the trany it dosnt mater what gear i am in. I have done toyotas before and when you pull the shifters out of the cab the have to be in neutral. i just want to be sure i dont screw anything up majorly.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Many years ago I used pull a 4 spd 40 pound trans out of Opel Kadet station wagon (first and last project vehilce) I had to take the shifter off. I usually had the trans in neutral when I pulled it and when I was re-installing some how it would manage to get back in gear which kept it an 1 1/2 inches from going all the way in. After the first time I always doubled checked to see if it was in neutral.

 

[wcjp]

Why don't you check the starter contacts/plunger and replace with LarryB's first before paying someone to look at it. Don't forget the 12v soft fuel lines are subject to dryrot. They'll leak air in, but, not fuel out. LarryB also supplies new line. My 12v also required replacing the fuel preheater/lift soft line and servicing the fuel preheater filter assembly.



I had the clutch work done by Rip at SourceAutomotive. Great Job. Went with the Southbend Rally clutch.

 

[edgeman]

im in the process of fixing it. I got a clutch from drivetrain.com which is beefed up. As far as starter contacts when i took the starter off i was going to put larry'bs contacts in it. Thanks for the help and will order the contacts and hose kit.

 

[GCroyle]

It looks like one of the questions is what gear should the transmission be in to R&R for a clutch job. If I was doing it, it would be in neutral to remove the shifting mechanism, then for installation I would try to put it IN GEAR. Reason being when you are jostling the trans into place, sometimes even after you have made the appropiate burnt offerings and spun 3 times in place standing on your left leg, it takes a bit of luck to get the trans to go THUNK, that's when I will try to wiggle the output shaft to get the input shaft to wiggle and get the spline lined up with the disc, just my . 02$. Then to put the selector in, I'd try to find neutral again if that would help. Another big help is to make some guide bolts for the transmission, cut the heads off, slight chamfer on the end you cut the head off at and possibly a hacksaw cut to make a screwdriver slot, don't hang a lot of weight on them, just let them help you guide it in.



Use patience and skill, this is not the time for brute force and comealongs.

 

[edgeman]

Ok that sounds good. We are now in the process of taking the shifters out but we really dont know how to take them out the proper way any ideas?

 

[GCroyle]

I think the '95 uses the pin and cam lock system, later styles are a bit different. If I'm backward on this somebody will correct me.



You have to push the retainer socket down then rotate about 1/8 turn and it will release, pops up, collect the parts, take a digital picture if you can and proceed. Not sure about best way to clear 4X4, I think we disconnected a pinch bolt, but it shouldn't be too hard.



COVER THE TOP OF THE TRANS, DON'T LET ANY JUNK GET IN THERE.