Steering box plate

[Flexiheep]

Just wondering where you guys are getting the steering box mount for the 4x4s? The local Dealer (Crown Dodge, Ventura Ca) said sorry they are 70 bucks, and discontinued so they can't even get them.

Funny thing is the guy remembers selling a few of them too.



Thanks for any advice, mine is getting loose enough to worry about (along with the bad pot joint, and draglink), and I have a couple desert trips planned this summer.

 

[JVanvuren]

I bought mine from the local dealer a few weeks ago, paid $13 and change, and they had it in stock!



I would try a different dealer if I were you. Good luck



John

 

[Flexiheep]

Thanks for the information, I did more calling and felt like I was running around in circles (5 dealers), I finally found a place that could desribe the part to me and had it is stock. It should be here this week. Going to build a brace that goes from the top of the plate to the front Xmember to help stabalize and help the mount live a little longer.

 

[MMiller]

Ive been considering going to crossover steering and then a guy would eliminate the steering plate. I got to get the crossover on my 75 tuned in first though.



I got mine several years ago at a local dodge dealer for 12-13 bucks. I upgraded the hardware to grade 8 fine thread Caterpillar bolts and have had no problems with the plate since then.



Michael

 

[SAronson]

Originally posted by MMiller

Ive been considering going to crossover steering and then a guy would eliminate the steering plate. I got to get the crossover on my 75 tuned in first though.



Crossover is THE way to go on a lifted rig. I was running this setup on my '78 Crewcab w/ 6" lift. Then when I found my '91 CTD, I just swapped it all over. I got all my parts from "PARTSMIKE". What you will need to do is remount the PS box in the 2wd location, and use a different steering shaft. I cobbled one from an old IHC truck, but I believe Borgeson makes one. Then, PARTSMIKE can supply you with the correct dropped Pitman arm, steering arm for the passenger side knuckle, and a custom length Draglink w/ TRE's. Do this and you will have no slop, and no steering plate!



Steve

 

[MMiller]

I got steering arms from Spyder Customs, and was going to do the high steer setup too. I unfortunatly only am running 4" of lift on my 75. With a 2. 5" drop pitman I had to cut a section out of the crossmember to get enough clearance for the drag link. With a 4" drop the arm would hit the leaf spring on articulation off road. I think I will move this setup to my 90(its taller then my 75) when the time comes and then do the high steer setup(which moves the tierod above the leaf springs). I agree it is the way to go, I still need to do some adjusting to get mine perfect on my 75. I used a stock shaft and carefully removed the end at the rag joint with a grinder. Then shortened the shaft to the close to correct length. Got everything were I wanted it mounted in the truck and welded the shaft to the plate that holds the rag joint. Trimmed off the extra shaft and installed it. I like it much better then stock.



Michael

 

[desertrat1]

I agree, cross-over steering is the only way to go on a lifted ride. Tighter turning radius and no plate to break apart. Get rid of the stock rag joint and put on a u-joint style steering shaft (2wd length) to eliminate all steering wheel slop. I makes it alot easier to drive.

I love the setup on mine.

The only problem I had was the axle moving from side to side while turning (You could hear the spring shackels hit the frame). I cured this with a track bar I built. No problems since.