2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering box replaced, howling pump, ect.

[WAHarrison]

Just had the steering gear box replaced with a rebuilt one from the local heavy truck parts place (ARC in NY is on the box in came in). Slop in steering is gone, but now the pump howls and the steering is very jerky when making full turns to either side. Bloke that put it in said that they bled out the air, and hopes that it just still has air in it, and that it is not a bad rebuild. This guy is a honest as they get, so I know he did what he said.



Has any one else seen this after replacing the box? I would think that it would not take too long to get the air out of the system, but I have never had to replace a steering box on any previous auto. Must be a common problem, as the core charge is $200, same as the price of the rebuilt box.



Any sugguestions will be welcome.

 

[Joe Mc]

I've heard that sometimes air will be very difficult to get out and can take some time. What I've also heard is that if you use the synthetic (I think Valveolene) it helps. I've sucked out as much fluid from the pump as possible with a Turkey baster and replenished with the syn and repeated every weekend until fluid is really clean and no have more howling - even turns easier. A thought - it was common, in the days of old, to use transmission fluid - same as power steering fluid, right? - not so any more. The Tech could have used ATF instead of correct power str fluid. May I suggest - check to see what color the fluid in the pump is - if it's red call and ask what was used or, for piece of mind (and not to insult a really good Tech. ) set the front frame on stands, either drain fluid by disconnecting a line to the box or suck out with Turkey baster or other divice and replace the fluid (Turkey baster method is much easier, cleaner and less chance of damaging an expensive HP line). The reason to place on stands is once you have drained and refilled the pump resevoir you'll need to get the air out/new fluid circulated in the system - start engine and turn wheel lock to lock a billion times (+/- a few thousand) to transfer new fluid to system and then drain and repeat until you only get clean fluid in the pump. Some Techs don't/aren't allowed/don't know to - flush out systems when replacing components. Sometimes if you don't flush there are contaminants in the fluid which doesn't "just drain out when hoses are disconnected" this old fluid w/contaminants, over time, can cause damage to new - very expensive - parts. Just my $0. 02. Good luck.

 

[WOT]

Just put a PSC Steering box in today. First startup pump was howling like crazy - lots of foaming in the pump. Hmm, something not right - consulted the shop manual (should have done that first). Lifted front wheels off the ground and cranked full left to full right 20 times (when not running), capped off the fluid and cranked it up again - no howl. Steering is much better, now to get an alignment to get the steering wheel dead ahead.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

when I replaced my brake booster, the directions for bleeding the system said to turn the wheel lock to lock 10 times or so (preferably with the tires not sitting on the ground) and DO NOT hold the wheel against the "lock". look for bubbles in the fluid. if there are bubbles, kill the motor and let the truck sit for 15-20min. repeat untill there are no bubbles.



I HIGHLY recomend using a quality synthetic fluid. I'm using Royal Purple and it definately quited down the pump when I swapped over. I also put a big oil cooler on the system.



be kind to the pump, they're a PITA to swap out.



Forrest