2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering Box Seal Replacement????

[CEdwards]

I've been searching old threads but can't find anyone who has replaced the input shaft seal on their steering box. Everyone just buys new boxes. Anyone know of a thread or maybe where I can find the part number or drawing or directions or anything to the seal replacement? I've never worked on a steering box so any help would be appreciated.

 

[CEdwards]

found a place on the internet called rockauto.com wher you can look up any parts and see the different brands and prices, they have an input shaft seal for 5 and 6 dollars for gates and edelman. I hope they are the right part numbers. Anybody have anything to add?

 

[rotohead]

found a place on the internet called rockauto.com wher you can look up any parts and see the different brands and prices, they have an input shaft seal for 5 and 6 dollars for gates and edelman. I hope they are the right part numbers. Anybody have anything to add?

I know NAPA sells a rebuild kit for our steering boxes for about $40. Includes every seal and c-clip, etc. I was going to do my box but decided to upgrade to a 3 turn box from PSC. Don't have the part # but it seemed like a part NAPA stocked regularly.

Chuck

 

[LOtero]

i replaced the seal on the input shaft, it was pretty easy, cost me about 40 bucks from my local dodge dealership. the hardest part was taking the pitman arm off, use a puller and a big hammer. all you do is pull the pitman arm, the first seal and then the c clip, use a screw to screw into the inner seal so you can pull it out or start the truck so it just pukes out and replace the seals as they came out... its pretty straightforward.

 

[CEdwards]

thanks for the help, i ordered a $12 seal at napa, hopefully it won't be too hard to get the steering shaft slid off.

 

[rotohead]

... the hardest part was taking the pitman arm off, use a puller and a big hammer...

the best trick I learned working on my uncles dairy farm with stuff like pitman arm removal is to heat it... then get a very wet towel and put it on the joint. The sudden cooling of the hole will always break the joint. All heat does is make the joint tighter but it does break the joint with the sudden cooling. Works every time with a puller in place but no need for big hammering.