Steering clunk

[Bill Weber]

Have been having a "clunk" in my steering when making a slow turn out of my drive way or any other slow sharp turn. Some times it sounds like it is on the passenger side (mostly) other times the drivers side.

Have checked the trac arm bushings (new), Carli ball joints 16k miles. New steering up grade. Control arm bushings = OK. With motor off & wheels off, when turning the wheel to the right the "stop" on the steering knuckle will hit the "stop" on the axel. When going to the left have to use extra effort to have the "stops' make contact and then the wheel wants to come back to the right a little. Don't know what that means.

This clunk has whipped my butt! Any one have any ideas I would surely appreciate the help.

Bill

 

[Prairie Dog]

Sway bar strut links - if you haven't replaced them, they're bad.

 

[Bill Weber]

pd I replaced them many thousand miles ago with Max Links from Geno's.

They are junk compared to the originals. I'll replace the grommets and see if that helps. Thanks

Bill

 

[JFought]

sway bar bushings, or holes wallaryed out in the metal frame support

 

[Bill Weber]

sway bar bushings, or holes wallaryed out in the metal frame support

The bushings are OK. Are you referring to the place where the links are attached to axel? That's OK also.

Bill

 

[JFought]

Sorry i meant the sway bar bushings.
ou need a person to turn the wheel while watching each side for movement.

(The bolt that holds the sway bar on each side)
Its possible the bolt has enlarged the hole on the metal frame support that the bolt head, and nut slide thru, in addition the bushings could be bad.

mine did enlarge the hole, there is a weld repair kit i think from Source Automotive.

 

[SierraRam]

You didn't say how tight the steering is, any wander, pull, vibrations? Do you feel it in the steering or just hear it?

 

[Bill Weber]

You didn't say how tight the steering is, any wander, pull, vibrations? Do you feel it in the steering or just hear it?

The steering is tight. No wander. Tracs & handels fine. No vibs. Just that damn clunk when moving slow (5 - 10 mph) and turning the wheel fairly sharply. Sometimes the clunk is not very loud and other times quite loud. Tried laying under the front end - motor running so my wife could turn the wheel. Heard it a couple of times and could feel it while holding the steering linkage, but, could locate it. Sounds & feels the same everywhere.

 

[Bill Weber]

Sorry i meant the sway bar bushings.
ou need a person to turn the wheel while watching each side for movement.

(The bolt that holds the sway bar on each side)
Its possible the bolt has enlarged the hole on the metal frame support that the bolt head, and nut slide thru, in addition the bushings could be bad.

mine did enlarge the hole, there is a weld repair kit i think from Source Automotive.

Sway bar supports & bolts are in good shape & tight. The bushings are OK. Bill

 

[HHhuntitall]

I'd wager on the tracking bar bushings in the axle. My '03 and one of the ranch '06s, as well as two other customer's trucks will make a clunk when turning, or in some cases, with the bolt really tight, it pops, almost like a rimfire rifle going off!! My two were the bolt on the axle. The hole is a bit too large, so the bolt slams to the other side when turning against it. One customer had bad bushings out of the box from Autozone, and another had worn his bushings excessively, I guess, when a ball joint had gone bad..... Also make sure your stabilizer shock is not dented badly. A big dent will cause the internal ram to drag and bend internally, which can cause a clunk when turning, and the resistive turn you describe at end..... I don't see that issue much on a 3rd gen.

 

[Bill Weber]

I'd wager on the tracking bar bushings in the axle. My '03 and one of the ranch '06s, as well as two other customer's trucks will make a clunk when turning, or in some cases, with the bolt really tight, it pops, almost like a rimfire rifle going off!! My two were the bolt on the axle. The hole is a bit too large, so the bolt slams to the other side when turning against it. One customer had bad bushings out of the box from Autozone, and another had worn his bushings excessively, I guess, when a ball joint had gone bad..... Also make sure your stabilizer shock is not dented badly. A big dent will cause the internal ram to drag and bend internally, which can cause a clunk when turning, and the resistive turn you describe at end..... I don't see that issue much on a 3rd gen.

Fairly new BD trac bar. Pulled it the other day. Bolt holes just big enough to get the bolts in. Bushings like new and greaseable. Did the 08 steering up grade a couple of months ago - so new shock. Clunked before & after. Damn clunk!
Bill

 

[HHhuntitall]

Wow. Well, the only other thing I can think of would be the steering box is loose on the frame, pitman arm is loose, or the shock bushings are gone. Don't know how the shock bushings would affect it sitting still and turning... ... .

 

[SierraRam]

I am leaning on the steering box or pitman arm too.

 

[JFought]

you REAly got to tighten the track bar bolts.
with the 08 upgrade and the weld kit i still had the clunk.
i final took tire off and used a larger cheater bar and got it over 200 #'s of torque.
my clunk is finally gone.
(two different large impacts and a medium rachet while laying on the ground didn't get it tight enough. )
Cheater bar with a backup wrench was the only way.

 

[JFought]

mark the left and right side of both bolts.
Right when you hear the clunk you will see what bolt moves.
For me it was the driver side frame mount bolt for the track bar was the clunker.
(i am pretty damn sure thats your problem. i also have an aftermarket track bar like you. )

 

[WOT]

have u looked at your lower shock mounting bolts? I have seen slop there that makes a clunk.

 

[Bill Weber]

you REAly got to tighten the track bar bolts.

with the 08 upgrade and the weld kit i still had the clunk.

i final took tire off and used a larger cheater bar and got it over 200 #'s of torque.

my clunk is finally gone.

(two different large impacts and a medium rachet while laying on the ground didn't get it tight enough. )

Cheater bar with a backup wrench was the only way.

I un-bolted the trac bar. The bolt holes in the frame were . 58" - both sides and uniform top to bottom & side to side. Of course I couldn't measure the rear of the passenger side. The bolt thickness was . 545". The outside of the mounting flanges was 2. 0" The bolt is 2. 65" long. The shoulder (un threaded) length of bolt is 1. 0" This means the the bolt threads are making contact with the mounting hole in the frame (flange). There was no sign of wear on either bolt. A 9/16" bolt is . 562" in dia. Replaced the stock bolts with grade 8 - 9/16" bolts, washers & locking nuts. Made sure the shoulder of the bolt was just through the frame for support. The washer allowed me to tighten the nut and still have the bolt shoulder through the frame. Didn't have a torque wrench that would go to 200# so I used a 3/4" breaker bar, feet against the wheel & pulled as much as I could. Have been on 2 short drives (80) miles. No clunk yet. Have worked on the front end twice before and all would be well for a day or so. Then clunk. But, I think you may be right about the torque and with the slightly larger bolts I have hope. Thanks to all who have given me much needed help.

SierraRam The gear box is tight as well as the pitman arm. Thanks.

Bill

 

[idlinthetruck]

this may be way off - but I have just solved a "clunk... ... . clunk..... clunk... . " on slow, sharp turns (parking lots, turning onto driveways) issue from drivers side - it was the front axle u-joint.



hope it helps

 

[Spooled05]

You need to torque the ***** out of lower shock bolt and i found a joint inside cab that was making a clunk on steering.
#ad

I put 3 orings on each side of the pin and taped it up and all is well.

 

[Bill Weber]

this may be way off - but I have just solved a "clunk... ... . clunk..... clunk... . " on slow, sharp turns (parking lots, turning onto driveways) issue from drivers side - it was the front axle u-joint.



hope it helps

At least I don't have to worry about the U joints or bearings since I installed the SpynTech hubs. Thanks, Bill