Steering column clunk

[RSchwarzli]

So, a few weeks ago I started truck, pulled out of a parking lot and I heard a clunk.



Then a week later I heard it again. Now I hear it every time I start driving from a stop.



Basically, anytime I turn the wheel from a dead stop (not dry steer though) I get a clunk on what feels like the bottom end of the shaft. I pulled the borgeson shaft off and played with the bottom end. Being an original auto truck, I see the plastic collar inside the column as well as the shift linkage piece. Is there to be a bearing like the stick trucks have? From what it feels like, it feels like the bottome end of the shaft flexes. I did notice a bit of play in it as well when I had the borgeson off and was able to wiggle the internal splined shaft. Question is, is that normal? I dont have that on the bearning support stick column on the crew cab.....



I did inspect the gear box mounting plate (still OK), steering box is good (was replaced a year ago), drag link was replaced at the same time, so was the tie rods, and the ball joints, etc. so I still suspect something in the column.



In my mind, its like the bottom of the splined shaft shifts when pressure from the steering pump starts to to provide force to turn... .



Any thoughts?



Thanks,

 

[JLEONARD]

Can you put your hand on the center of the steering wheel and tell if the movement is axial (up and down the column) or radial (back and forth as in turning the wheel)?



Remember that the steering wheel acts a like a speaker and any vibration will be amplified. Meaning it can be a very small amount of movement/play that becomes a clunk to the ear.

 

[RSchwarzli]

That is a good point. I would say from past feelings it is side to side more than up and down. But I will double check.

 

[DVolk]

Maybe the box its self is bad , or double check that plate i had a hairline crack in one , you should invest in that stiffner that dodge connection has it helps the movement

 

[NIsaacs]

Mostly any noise associated with the front axle will transfer to the steering wheel, even engine clunks. Check your shock and motor mounts for movement.



Nick

 

[RSchwarzli]

Well, I played with it for two days. Cant tell if it is for sure NS or EW but I believe it is side to side.



Nick



Does not feel like engine or shock. I did check them just in case. Motor mounts are older but they seem OK.





DV



Possible the box is bad, but does not feel like that. Feels like a heavy metal on metal. Not a tinny clunk. A deep clunk.

 

[JLEONARD]

Well, I played with it for two days

No comment on that:-laf

Feels like a heavy metal on metal. Not a tinny clunk. A deep clunk

Heavy deep clunk would make me think it is not in the column or I shaft. I would look at pitman arm, idler arm, toe rod ends, steering box movenment, those kind of things.

 

[ZedMikey]

Heavy deep clunk would make me think it is not in the column or I shaft. I would look at pitman arm, idler arm, toe rod ends, steering box movenment, those kind of things.

I'm with JL on this one. I recently tracked down the clunk in my truck... also a deep, meaty clunk when turning from one direction to the other... my steering box is loose.

But, my ORD crossover kit just showed up yesterday, so as soon as this snow goes away (and isn't just replaced with rain, damn it), I'm going to tear into my front end. My Alcans showed up recently, too! Oo.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Jay - :-laf



Jay and Zed



I would agree. Still makes more sense it is not column. Maybe I will pull the gear box out again and reinstall everything. Might be something I am overlooking.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I've had that same clunk before. One time it was a bad u-joint or sliding shaft... . I replaced the whole thing, which fixed it. I think either the u-joint in the tilt steer had a lot of slack, which would allow the whole shaft to "slap" when it rolled over, combined with slack in the sliding shaft allowing it to move enough to be noticeable... ... Since I had already gone through all of the front end trying to make it drive better, it really drove well after fixing that... .



And recently, I put the NV4500 in my '93, which required the cutting of a new transmission hole for the shift tower... ... Apparently I didn't get the hole large enough, as with a trailer, it makes the transmission roll up and hit the pass side of the hole. Gotta fix that..... not a problem until I get about 15k lbs behind it. Motor mounts are good, I think, as the fan doesn't hit the shroud, and the rears are all new.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Possible. The shaft feels smooth when the borgeson is disconnected and one turns the wheel..... But still a possibility when there is load on it.



I hate little bugs in the truck.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Possible. The shaft feels smooth when the borgeson is disconnected and one turns the wheel..... But still a possibility when there is load on it.



I hate little bugs in the truck.

 

[JLEONARD]

With the Borgeson shaft disconnected from the steering gear you can do a "test".....

The shaft is made of a DD shaped shaft that slides inside a DD shaped tube. Keep/set the length as close as possible to where it is when installed on the gear. Then use vise grips or similar (I don't know what you have for tools) and clamp one pair on the shaft (do not mess up the surface of the shaft) and another pair on the tube (do not crush the tube).

Using about 1 or 2 foot pounds of torque (1. 5 to 3 newton-meters) "wiggle" the two vise grips and check for "rotational lash" in that joint. There will be some play but there should not be much. (Should be less than 1 degree but you won't be able to measure that with vise grips, just get a feel for it).

You may be able to hear a slight "click" if the "lash" (or play) is too much.

If you hear a click then you will have to make a judgement whether or not this is what you are hearing thru the steering wheel.

You could also put more torque on the two vise grips and listen to know if that makes a clicking noise. It should not... at the low torque you should be moving each component to it's rotational stop.

This test would eliminate or confirm the steering intermediate shaft as being the culprit.

If it is the culprit we can go further and design a fix.

 

[DVolk]

Mine sounded exactly like a deep clunk when my bracket /frame cracked out , i welded the hell out of mine , the frame after it broke a second time , them got rid of some holes i also on my 92 added a cabel from side to side to stiffen the mount as this was done before i discoverd the frame brace

 

[RSchwarzli]

Well, the clunk is gone. Oo.

Turns out is was the bracket to frame bolts. They were just loose enough to let the plate flex when under load. I guess the bolts slowly loosened from when I replaced the box a year and a bit ago.

Now, where is my loctite.....

Thanks for all of the help guys!

 

[JLEONARD]

Now, where is my loctite.....

You're a welder aren't you? Give the nuts a little tack to keep them from backing out. A blob you can grind off if you need to remove them.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Now, where is my loctite.....

You're a welder aren't you? Give the nuts a little tack to keep them from backing out. A blob you can grind off if you need to remove them.

Yes, I could go that route. I just hate screwing up the threads. If I ever had to do a side of the road gear box change, it would be a PITA.

 

[JLEONARD]

Then go with some locknuts... the kind that are crushed or have a dimple, not the nylon inserted style.

 

[RSchwarzli]

Good call. Nylon ones I am not fond of as I have had those loosen before!

 

[HHhuntitall]

... . and with a good tack weld, if you need to take it off, just grind it flat against the frame with a grinder, and then it'll come right out. Kinda like my unpatented NV4500 "side-of-the-road-repair. "