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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission steering components online?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 3rd Generation Trac Bar Bracket

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission steering stabilizer q.

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I am somewhat out of my element since moving down to Montgomery, Alabama. Trying to find name brand parts locally is hit and miss.

If anyone buys their parts online, who do you get them from?

I am specifically looking for tie rod ends and steering links. My '96 is starting to wander pretty bad, but with 100,000 miles since the last front end parts were replaced, I wonder why.

I am looking for Dana Spicer, Perfect Circle, or comparable brands, not the garbage autozone or Checker quality stores sell.



Thanks in advance.



On a side note, I travel between Chattanooga, Atlanta, Birmingham and Montgomery on a weekly loop. Any good stores in this region are fine if they are priced reasonable.

I may end up just opening another NAPA account down here like I had in Montana.
 
Best bet in Chattanooga is NAPA on Lee Highway. Exit I-75 on Hwy 153, go north to Lee HWY. (US 11) and go south. NAPA is just south of RR overpass on right.



Denny
 
I recently rebuilt the front end on my 96. The best price I could get was from www.rockauto.com and beat my local autoparts store more than $100. 00 all on quality MOOG parts.

There was a post a while back about a TDR discount too. Search on "rockauto" and you may get the post on how to get the discount.
 
THanks for the suggestions. I already checking with Chattanooga Napa. They were more than the Napa in Montgomery, only difference I can figure is the tiered Napa pricing and my Yankee accent winning me little more than walkin counter sales rate.

I'll check with the web sire listed here tommorow. Hopefully, it will help. For now, the steering links are the biggest concern. The ball joints and track bar are in good shape still. Luk's link of course ;)
 
David,



I ordered a steering part from rockauto.com, I think it was a MOOG(haven't installed yet). They're cheaper, and the shipping is pretty quick. We have a decent NAPA in Griffin here, but I haven't otherwise been real impressed with the NAPA service in this area.



If I were you, I'd go ahead and upgrade the steering parts to the 98-99 T-style. The Y style we have apparently develops more play, and the joints look stronger on the newer ones. There's some good threads on here about the conversion.



I upgraded the track bar to the lukes link, it still has some play in the joint that can't be adjusted out, but I've also noticed the bushing on the lower end can get worn bad. I replaced it with a poly one from Energy Suspension.



I still need to replace control arm bushings and shocks, and my front end should be almost completely new now(well, replaced with new stuff since the truck was new ;) )



BTW, give me a call next time you're in Atlanta. Still have my cell phone number?
 
Willys said:
David,



If I were you, I'd go ahead and upgrade the steering parts to the 98-99 T-style. The Y style we have apparently develops more play, and the joints look stronger on the newer ones. There's some good threads on here about the conversion.

I had thought about upgrading, but as of right now, less than 1/2 of the ball ends are loose. I am going to pull it apart and check tolerances on all of it before ordering parts.

I upgraded the track bar to the lukes link, it still has some play in the joint that can't be adjusted out, but I've also noticed the bushing on the lower end can get worn bad. I replaced it with a poly one from Energy Suspension.



I have had minimal play in my track bar since putting in the track bar. The biggest issue was getting the adjuster snugged down enough.

I still need to replace control arm bushings and shocks, and my front end should be almost completely new now(well, replaced with new stuff since the truck was new ;) )



My front truck is beyond ever being brought back to new. Too many hard miles in Montana to ever expect that of it. The drivetrain is great, but the Diaper Chrysler body is unraveling. Another year of so and the cab will be replaced by a 98 1/2 ton quad cab gasser so I can get the access doors. That should be enough to get the body to live out the engine and let it retire to a core builder when I finally hit the 1/2 million mark. (260,000 on the clock now)/





BTW, give me a call next time you're in Atlanta. Still have my cell phone number? Still have it in email somewhere, just need to come through before midnight and after 6 am. :(



Noticed your yahoo 4bt alert link, I'll have to get signed up. I'm looking for a few more for this winter. Sold all but 1 of mine before moving south.
 
amnewsom said:
partsamerica.com for all my T-style stuff.





I used "kragen/checker" online before. Partsamerica did not impress me. The order was 2 weeks past due and the calipers I ordered for them had damaged threads on them. Nice rebuild or should I say repaint quality. :(
 
I have all the part # for napa for the 98 T style, I think it works out close to 400. 00 Does anyone have those numbers posted for rockauto? Or If I called them do they know what im talking about?

thanks
 
JKinney said:
I have all the part # for napa for the 98 T style, I think it works out close to 400. 00 Does anyone have those numbers posted for rockauto? Or If I called them do they know what im talking about?

thanks





If you could please post the "T" style part #'s needed, I am having trouble finding them on the forum. Took the front end apart finally and found lots of things to replace :{ I can't complain, it has been a very good truck for me.

Has anyone truely felt a difference in the T style conversion for tracking or wander? I considered a while back, but put it out of my head until I realized nearly all the front is getting R/R'ed.

Thanks for any info or part# ahead of time.
 
I had this bookmarked from PavementSucks. It has some part numbers in it...



http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=62432&highlight=steering&start=0



A search revealed this:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119499&highlight=steering+upgrade



and this:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114584



and this:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133898&highlight=steering+upgrade



I hope that helps. There is a lot to read there...



I have to note that I haven't upgraded to the T, I've just read a lot of improvements being made by doing so. I can tell a difference between my 96(with stock y) and my dads 98(with stock T). :eek: I replaced all but one of my tie rods/ends, u-joints, both unitized bearings(the original cause of the breakdown), rotors, pads, and ball joints. It was amazing how worn everything was. Now, at 268k, the last original TRE is somewhat worn, the others are good, the ball joints still appear tight, the u-joints are questionable(probably not greasing often enough :( ), and I've had to replace one bearing(had developed some slop). The replacement bearings were NAPA(made in Japan-$230), the new one I just bought is a O'Reilly(made in US-$200). I wish I'd known about the T upgrade a few years ago. My innovative brother suggested it, but I didn't want to be a guinea pig... . ;)



Edit: I also have the DSS, this thing is great. I had a lot of slop in the lower bearing of the box, the DSS braces it well. Eventually I'll probably need to upgrade to a new box, but this works well for now. Also, new sway bar bushings helped. Next on the list- control arm bushings, the last TRE, and some shocks. :D
 
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NAPA PARTS for T steering

269-1123 steer pt, 269-3208 left outer t ro, 269-3148 right inner tie rod, 269-1201 tie rod sleve 269-6096 drag link end, 269-6095 right outer t r

total price 418. 34
 
partsamerica did me great, but like large companies there are good and bad stories. I had my order very quickly and order some sway bar end links also. everything was of top quality and package very well. just my experience.
 
Thanks for the parts lists, I will get them priced out tonight after I get finished crying over all the other things I am finding in less than desirable shape under my Ram. Looks like the last 6 months have been anything but kind to the old mule. :(



The steering parts are well worth the money to me. Getting rid of a another possible pivot point for the toe-in setting to go out of spec is reason enough for me.

I wish I had spent more time under the truck this summer. Its coming back to bite me in short order now. u joints, brakes, pinion seal, oh boy the list is getting bigger each time I get under it this week.

Good thing its its so ugly and set up just as I need it, a pretty truck would be a good candidate for parking downtown at midnight unlocked.



Thanks again for the links, good reading on all of them. I tried "t style", "t" steering conversion", etc. none came back in relation to this conversion.
 
I know the feeling about replacing parts- every time I crawl under it I notice something worn out that I didn't notice the last time... :( Its certainly less of a problem lately than it used to be though. ;)



While reading back through some of those threads, I noticed you need the drag link end(the one that connects to the pitman arm) for your specific year, not the 98-99 one. Hope you caught that too.



You might want to search for the name 'Sam Peterson' for brakes, a number of guys have recommended him. I keep intending to buy pads from him, but haven't gotten a 'roundtuit'.



Glad to help with the links, I'm starting to get the hang of this search thing. ;)
 
Willys said:
While reading back through some of those threads, I noticed you need the drag link end(the one that connects to the pitman arm) for your specific year, not the 98-99 one. Hope you caught that too.



I actually ended up using all '98 2500 series parts for a heavy duty 8800 lb chassis code. The original pitman arm drag link was way too long to even get the steering remotely close to centered.

I had to modifiy the steering damper/stabilizer mount to fit onto the new drag link, but with a quick trip to an accessory shop for a universal clamp style stabilizer bracket, I should be able to run a standard stem to eye style dampener without issue.

I'll post some pics as soon as I get time to get back under the truck with a camera. It was the fastest modification I have made to my truck yet. It took me less than 30 minutes to remove the old parts and install the new "t" style set up. I did reuse the dra link coupler sleeve, no difference in diameter on the drag links, but the tie rods are 1" or bigger.

Truck drove straight as an arrow with minimal wander, which I have come to figure was the construction surface of the interstate in Atlanta to Montgomery. It is driving fine now between Montgomery to Birmingham.

Next is a search for wheel bearing hubs. I think for the sake of Preventative maintenance, I am going to replace them as well. They are still intact with no slack upon inspection, but I don't trut them with the loads this truck has been subjected to in its life. (not to mention gravel roads of Montana).
 
My bearings were shot by 180k miles(both sides). I had to replace one of those bearings after a few of those rough Montana dirt roads(and a few in CO, WY, and ID) :D



I have a post a day or two back with more details on the parts and numbers I used, ya might want to read it...



Andy
 
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