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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering linkage conversion - First Death Wobble

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 370s + no plate + con ofe =

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Help with front end vibration

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Yesterday, I completed a conversion of my tie rod linkage to the T-type from the original Y-type. The job was easy enough, thanks to some detailed parts listings and assistance from posts by muchsnow and Jim Brewer.



This morning, after a trip to the alignment shop, I had my first Death Wobble experience. Now I know why it's called the DEATH wobble. For sure, it was a white knuckle experience.



First, the linkage conversion went very well. All the parts go in nicely, although I wasn't sure the adjuster sleeves were going to allow the proper lengths I needed. The sleeve for the drag link from the pittman arm was hanging up, wouldn't adjust short enough, and I ended up with the steering wheel a bit off. The alignment tech must have put a pipe wrench on the sleeve, evidenced by some gouges. The steering wheel is centered, but I wondered if I would have to cut the tie rod a bit shorter.



I have some interference at full lock turn to the right. I don't think I'll have interference with the rims, like Jim Brewer mentioned. But, that may be due to my dually wheels, vs. the rims on the 2500 trucks. The center link (knuckle-to-knuckle) hits the bolt head for the track bar axle mount, and the drag link hits the right sway bar mount. I think I can put a screw in the wheel knuckle to limit the turn some. Muchsnow has a picture of such a stop that he installed. I'll experiment a bit with this. There's a flat boss on the rear side of the knuckle, where it hits the axle end, that will be a perfect place for a drilled hole with bolt and washer. It appears to me that this is the original design stop for the knuckle and axle anyway. For the left turn extreme, the cross-link bumps the differential cover slightly. This shouldn't be a problem at all, since the tie rod ends let the cross-link rotate a bit.



Now, as for the DW, my truck had never had this problem before. I had only driven a few miles from the alignment shop, and was on the freeway when it occured. I have no idea what set it off, but traveling about 60MPH, it really felt like the truck was about to bounce off the road. And it didn't stop until I had slowed to about 10MPH. As I was hanging on to the wheel for life, I didn't have the wits to glance out the window to see what the wheels and axle might be doing. When I got home, I crawled under the truck to see what must have shaken loose. It was really that VIOLENT. I don't know where the other vehicles that were near me went. I looked to make sure I could move to the shoulder, and I don't remember seeing anyone. They must have seen the truck bouncing, and slowed to get away. I actually thought I might lose the front bumper for a second, by being snapped off like the tail on the end of a whip. I do remember seeing the hood, bumper, and fenders all shaking in different directions.



Since the tie rod conversion loses the steering stablizer, I can only conclude that the DW may be dampened by the stabilizer. I'll be putting on another stabilizer ASAP. I have recently replaced all the ball joints and front hubs, so I thought the tie rod ends would be my last step in finding a slight front end vibration. I think there may be some connection between the DW and possible worn steering gear box. I have Darin's DSS on the box, but perhaps that won't stop the DW, if indeed it's the gearbox which is a factor. I don't think there are any more worn parts left in the front end of my truck, so I'll have to turn attention to the gearbox, I guess.



For some good news, the tie rod conversion DID fix my vibration problem, and the truck has better steering. It still wanders a bit on the highway, but the needed steering input seems to be lessened. So, I think it's a good thing. I suppose the fact that it still wants to drift a bit indicates the steering gear may need attention. I haven't done the over center and preload adjustment yet, either. So, that will be my next project, in the attempt to fix "my steering sucks".



I only hope the DW doesn't happen again. I can now relate to all you guys that posted about it before.



Regards,

John
 
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Missing steering dampener will for sure contribute to the wobble. Also, what did they set the caster to? Caster is primary cause of wobble imo. Front shocks need to be kept in top condition also...



Keep us posted.
 
I made sure the caster was set at maximum adjustment. The alignment shop was able to get about 3. 5 degrees, both sides. (I realized when I got home that they didn't give me the printout, but I remember seeing about 3. 4 one side and 3. 7 other side when the tech showed me results. )



Maxing the caster adjustment is something I don't believe my Dodge dealer did when they replaced my ball joints. (Even though I specifically requested it. ) There's something about the alignment service at at vehicle dealer that makes me not trust them. I didn't get any good before/after alignment specs that were believable, and they gave me printouts from two different alignment machines. I couldn't get a good explanation for that.



My shocks are new - KORE Chase system installed about 8 months ago. So I think everything on the front end is good, except the steering gear and intermediate shaft. That's what I'll turn attention to next.



Thanks,

John
 
JSellers

i also had one on the weekend for the first time, all's i can say is :--)

hang on!!!!

my truck shuck so bad the int lights came on and off about 6 times

i am going to start looking at some new front end parts!!!



Scott
 
Front tires are the best of the set on the truck now, but that's being kind to them. I need a new set now, but I wanted to try and fix the front end so I won't wear out a new set prematurely.



Actually, there is a good bit of tread left on the front tires, but they COULD be out of round, or have other problems. They're the tires which came on the truck when I bought it with 40k, and I've run about 25k since. The rear tires are bad - they were on the front before ball joints and hubs. And there's no telling how much damage all these tires have gotten before I got the truck with bad components.



So, the answer is - tires need to be new. But, I still won't be sure that's the only problem until I get new. About 2-3 more weeks, and I'll have a new set.



Regards,

John
 
Just in case no one else makes it clear... If your gonna replace your tires, go E rated. I learned the hard way. This was finally the light at the end of my LONG Death Wobble tunnel.



Hello, my name is JJ, and I've been a DW survivor for ...
 
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