Steering Problem

[Case500D]

Ever since I bought my truck it does something weird with the steering. It only happens once ina a while and usually when it is below 60*F. It will start steering itself to the left and right. It is like something that keeps flipping back and forth over center. Like this morning, it was 55*F out and when I pulled out of the drive this morning and turned to the right and as I straightened out it pulled a little back to the left and then to the right. It continued this cylce two or three times. After a couple of miles it started acting fine. I have checked the tire pressure and have new tires all of the way around. I was wondering if it was the powersteering pump acting up or if it was the stock steering shaft? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Matt S]

Oh no!

Mine did the same thing and gradually got worse. It seemed like the truck had a mind of its own and you were trying to balance the steering on a pin point that you kept fall off of. Especially on corners. The truck would track straight turn the wheel and nothing. All of a sudden the truck would snap (over correct) into the turn and back out. A real white knuckle driving experience. I thought it was the steering box/steering shaft also. It got to the point where I was pulled over because the truck was all over the road and the trooper thought I was drunk. The problem was the wheels were changing camber. Meaning the king pins/ trunions/ ball joints (depending on the parts house you go to) were worn out. You can check this with a pry bar and the truck jacked up. I had mine done at a shop as the labor was $40 more than the tools needed and I got an alignment that I would have needed anyway. I know make sure the truck has plenty of grease. Good luck an let me know how it turns out.

 

[Case500D]

How Many Miles?

Hi Mat,



How many miles did your truck have on it when this problem developed? As far as I can tell the ball joints on the tie rod are in good shape, but I am not sure about the kingpins. I will check them ASAP. What special toools are required to change the king pins? Thanks.

 

[Matt S]

I only had 65,000 miles on the truck but it was almost 9 years old. It was more a matter of no grease by the original owner than miles. The big things were the press and adapters to get them out and the one nut needs a lot of torque. The other problem was the tools were backordered and I needed the truck fixed. The shop did it in about 5 hours. I can only recall 300 ft-lbs but that may not be correct.

 

[Case500D]

Problem Solved

Well I got the problem figured out this weekend. The front left wheel bearings were loose. I had a local shop put a new front rotor on in Januaury and they said the bearings and seal were fine. However, . . . the single lip seal had a big tear in it, there was no grease in the hub except just a dab on the bearings, and the nuts holding the hub on the axle were less than finger tight. Ughh!!! So for $50 at AutoZone and a double lip seal from NAPA and a Sunday afternoon, the truck drives very nicely again. However, I did notice that the steering shaft going into the gearbox on the frame was loose and it looked like there was plastic coming out of the holes that hold the shaft to the box. Looks like it is time for a Borgsen shaft. Thanks for the help Matt S.

 

[Matt S]

No problem. Glad to hear it was easier and cheaper than my problem was. I replaced my rotors about a month ago and put almost a full container of grease in both sides.

 

[NuttyMopar]

steering part

It takes 550 - 600 lbs of torque from what the book says for the top King Pin. Dodge dealer has the steering part kit for about $8. 00 to fix the steering. But granted, if you can afford the Borgeson shaft, that is the way to go. Get it fixed once and for all.

 

[Jet Tech]

Another real common cause for the problem you described is tight front axle u-joints. Obviosly in the 4WD models only. My stock 93 did not have grease fittings, fortunately the replacements did.

 

[Case500D]

I replaced the right U-joint and axle carrier bearing last year and the U-joint had a grease zerk in it. However, I checked the left one last weekend and it still felt good, so I didn't replace it this time around. I think it is a good idea to repack or at least check the front wheel bearings every 25,000 miles. Also, if you have to option to replace the original single lip seal with a double lips seal, do it. It is just added insurance for next to nothing in cost. Finally, I broke down and bought an axle nut socket. I would reccomend either making or buying one. It is very hard to get the outer locknut tight enough using a chisel.



Thanks for the help guys, as usual TDR is awesome!

 

[NuttyMopar]

Axle nut

I agree with you on the Axle Nut. It is WELL worth the $25. 00 or so. Nut starts looking rather sad using a chisel or screwdriver each time. I am surprised that my socket even works on one of them it is so screwed up. I would HATE to have someone else look at my Axle nuts right now. I just need to buy new ones all around but at $30 a nut, haven't done it yet.