Steering pull theory

[Archive]

So it seems most of us have had problems with steering pull, mostly to the right side. With me, the steering wheel would jerk a little to the right side when hitting a bump, etc.

I happen to have Rancho 9000s up front, and on a lark, set them to their most firm setting - 5 from a setting of 3. My steering immediately improved.

The only difference between the right front and left front side of my truck, as far as I can tell, is the springs. Left is an 046, right is an 039.

Could our right hand pull really be due to the fact that the right hand spring is not firm enough? Since the 039 is less firm than the 046, it would take a longer period of time to rebound back, and thus cause a right-hand lean in the truck. This is all just speculation.

I wonder if the folks with the plow kit (048/047?) experience the dreaded right hand pull?

Again, just speculating... .


Craig

 

[Archive]

I have the plow kit on my '01. NO PULL AT ALL.

My '99 did not have the kit, had pull. J.

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'01 Patriot Blue over Driftwood 2500 4x4 QC, snow plow prep, auto, 4. 10 LS, camper pack, tow mirrors (gotta love these!), American Racing Silver Atlas mags, Q-Logic 12" Cabinet w/Kicker amp , Mopar 12-CD changer, Sport lighting w. Brite Box, Stainless Luverne Boards, factory flairs, Line-X, and yet to re-install... . Janetty 4" exhaust, U. S. Gear 4" decellerator, K&N, cup-smoothie ;-) and a bunch of other BOMB-lite stuff like guages ... ...

 

[Archive]

I have the infamous right hand pull as well.

When I put the original set of Bridgestone 285/75/16's on the truck, I had NTB bump positive caster to 4deg. on both sides. This had little or no effect on the pull; so, I called a different alignment shop which is known for setting the alignment to settings that work on the test drive vs. settings that the computer specifies.

I was told that on our trucks, caster is not the same from side to side and should be adjusted to compensate for the crown of the road. I added positive caster to the passenger side and negative to the drivers side last night. It made a difference. Now it pulls really good to the right #ad


I am going to reverse the settings and I'll bet that it will help.

243

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1999 Quad Cab 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
[*] 275hp Injectors, Wastegate Elbow, Boost Module by TXRam, Straight Pipe
[*] VDO Boost and Pyrometer on Autometer Gauge Pod
[*] 285/75/16 Bridgestone MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500 Driving Lights Husky Liners
[*] Smittybilt Sure-Steps, Magellan 315 GPS mounted on shifter console

-- email address removed --

 

[Archive]

My new Y2K had that pull to the right when I test drove it. They said they would fix it. I took it in the following week, they aligned it and said nothing was wrong.

I drove it with the Serv. Manager and he said there was something wrong. They kept it an extra day and they got it. It still pulls ever so slightly, worse on some roads than other. A good flat road and no wind you can let go of the wheel for a while. It's so minor I can live with it. Other folks who drive it don't even notice.

I have no idea what they did. I Hope it doesn't come back.

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2000 2500 4x4 Reg Cab, 4:10 w/ LSD, Bed linner, Shell, Mid-Bronze

 

[Archive]

I also have the slight pull to the right and am scheduled for a new steering box next week!!

Sounds crazy, eh? I think the dealership is gonna make some $ on the warranty repair.

 

[Archive]

I don't have a truck yet, but have been reading about this issue for what seems like years. Hasn't stopped me from ording one though #ad
. There is a DC tech that post on the alt. auto,dodge. trucks NG once in a while, He has stated that it takes about 30 practice alignments at school to get good at the Dodge Truck front end. About 6 mo ago he posted what he thought the best specs were for making these things work. They are picky, just can't have it witin spec, he felt they needed to be set right on. I am wondering if most if not all of the problems would be cured with someone doing a "perfect" alignment??

I will try a NG search and see if I can find the specs he posted.

Shelby

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Ordered 2001 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH, DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with an Agate Interior.

E-Brake goes on @ delivery time, Bed comes off and will be replaced by a custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Ordered on 03-28-00

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by Surveyor Shelby:
Took me a while but I found what I was looking for. I am leaving most of this message intact, and it is quite long, but it looks like this guy knows what he is talking about, I didn't want to leave out any good details.

The full text and the rest of the thread can be had at this link
http://x52. deja.com/[ST_rn=ps]/getdoc. xp?AN=584018553&CONTEXT=963611422. 348782594&hitnum=5

QUOTE FOLLOWS

Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close). The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer) tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they were in this broad range of acceptance.
Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some 30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics" training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates caster shimmy.
Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can see if you had a job well done,
The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable in eight different ways.
Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).
FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!
If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).
A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing. Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.
Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!

Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs below are in degrees.


Left Wheel Right Wheel
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Caster 3. 2 3. 5
Cross Caster -. 3

Camber -. 10 -. 10
Cross Camber 0. 0

Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will pull in as the front end lifts up).

Brent
ASE Certified
Gold Certified Chrysler tech

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Ordered 2001 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH, DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with an Agate Interior.

E-Brake goes on @ delivery time, Bed comes off and will be replaced by a custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Ordered on 03-28-00

 

[Archive]

I've been working with mine since new and think I have finally straightened it out. What I thought was pull was actually the heavy centering characteristic. If I let go of the wheel it would go left about two degrees and sit there. It was slow to center back to the right after a left turn. I finally adjusted the worm gear preload in in the steering box as recommended in the post on "Steering Wander". Using the steps in the service manual I walked through and now it runs straight. I had the front end alligned when it was new and was not having any cupping or unusual wear. Driving down the road, I just had to stop it from centering (and drifting off the road). The dealer is still talking about replacing the steering gear. Right now it drives great with no pull so I'll probably keep the one that's on it.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, EGT/Boost Gauges, Running Boards,
Real Backup Lights