Steering pulsing - wheel bearings or u-joints?

[CPittman]

As the steering wheel straightens out after a right or left turn I can feel a pulsing through the wheel. It feels exactly like a muted version of what the LSD does when you're in 4WD making a turn on dirt.



I have 158K on the ticker and the front u-joints were replace with the Precision part numbers at 128K.



Could it be that the Precisions are already dead? Or did the tech kill my hub bearings when they were changing the u-joints? Or do you think it's something else?

 

[cojhl2]

Don't know what speed you are talking about but I would be surprised if a bearing would give a "pulse" feeling.



Loose wheel or tires would be my guess.



But if it were mine I would be crawling around under it for sure. .

 

[Midnight]

Kind of sounds like a seized u-joint to me.

 

[brods]

Sounds like a ujoint, mine just went with only 45k and did just what you describe. It looks like the seal on one bearing cup separated allowing water in. Cheap temporary band-aid was to put that cup at the bottom and soak the seal area with wd-40. Apparently it penetrated into the bearing cup and has bought a couple hundred extra miles out of the joint. I'm hoping to milk the ujoint along until I can get some locking hubs.



Easy way to check the wheel ujoint is to jack up one front tire and turn it by hand. Now turn the steering wheel a few turns. If the ujoint is bad you will definitely feel much more resistance while trying to rotate the tire while it is turned. Check both sides. Be sure to jack it safely so it doesn't fall off the jack when turning the steering wheel (or just lower it, turn the steering wheel and then jack it back up).

 

[Tomeygun]

To the top...



I have the EXACT same problem, just appeared a week ago. The wheel pulses when returning to center, as well pusles when doing a tight circle...



What ended up being the fix? new u joints?

 

[brods]

Just jack up the front axle, angle the tires to one side or the other and try to rotate the tire by hand (in 2wd of course). You will feel a bad ujoint bind up and let loose as you spin the tire. You'll know it when you feel it. If the ujoint is badly seized it may be difficult to spin the tire by hand when the wheels are angled more than just a little bit.

 

[Bartlett]

ujoints. same symtoms @ 50k

 

[05mxdiesel]

Also don't forget to check out the track bar bushings. Just did mine last week and tightened up my front end drastically. To the naked eye they looked fine but the drive afterwards told the story. Have fun getting them out, took about 20 minutes on each one, torching the rubber and then air chiseling the rest out.

 

[Tomeygun]

so check this:



I call my old dealer (used to work there), they said u-joints MAY be covered under the 7/70 powertrain warranty... BUT if the hub sticks and they break it when it comes off, then they are not liable...



I'm like, HUH? #@$%! You gotta be kidding me. If thats the case I may as well go home and hammer it myself. So I asked for a price. . He said between $0-$1200, depends on the hub issue and if warranty will cover it



What a load of crapola.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Warped rotor? Altho' that would be noticed when braking...

 

[DPKetchum]

U/joints are covered under the 7/70. But those front bearings are not even if they fall apart coming apart for the u/joint repair. They OUGHT to be if failure is not due to normal wear.

 

[Tomeygun]

quick follow up:



I very HEAVILY sprayed the right side U joint today with WD-40 just to check, and sure enough the steering was spot on smooth within 2-3 miles...



Looks like I will need to remove the passenger wheel bearing that has been on since day one (the left side was done at 35k, bad upper ball joint, got new bearing as well at that time... )

 

[05mxdiesel]

Get a buddy and use the steering method, worked flawless for me except one bolt head that got a little mangled. Fixed with the bench grinder though.

 

[Tomeygun]

does the front axle use the same "precision 351" u joint that the drive shaft uses?



I call dodge for the OEM non-greaable ones, $76 a whack - ouch

 

[brods]

No, the precision brand part# is 464, about $40 each at an auto parts store. About $36 from Rock Auto.