Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
See previous post for disassebly, tools, parts, etc.
Reassembly:
Knuckle Installation:
1. Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs. Install and tighten the lower ball stud nut to 35 ft lbs torque. I had to put a jack under the knuckle to hold pressure up so that the ball stud didn't turn inside the knuckle. The nut is a lock nut and it's pretty stiff.
2. Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 70 ft lbs torque. Advance nut to next slot to line up hole and install new cotter pin.
3. Re-torque lower ball stud nut to 140 - 160 ft lbs torque.
Hub and axle installation:
1. Clean out axle shaft before you reinstall the axle so you don't get any crap on the axle that will make the oil seal leak. I made something that resemble my gun cleaning kit and wiped it with rags until they came out clean. Be careful not to push any dirt into the differential or into the seal. Someone else said they made a scraper.
2. Apply a thin film of wheel bearing grease to the axle shaft splines, seal contact surface, and hub bore.
3. Install the axle shaft into the housing and differential side gears. Avoid damaging the axle shaft oil seals in the differential.
4. Install dust shield, shim, and hub bearing on knuckle.
5. Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and tighten to 125 ft lbs torque.
6. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten nut to 175 ft lbs torque. You'll have to use a bar in the knuckle to keep the axle from turning. Don't damage your new grease zerk in the u-joint with the bar. My torque wrench only went to 150 but it was so hard to get it to the next slot in the nut so the cotter pin lined up, I'm sure I'm past the 175 ft lb spec.
Brake component installation:
1. Clean caliper and steering knuckle slide surfaces with wire brush and apply multi-mileage grease to slide surfaces.
2. [the book says] Lubricate caliper mounting bolts, collars, bushings and bores with Dow 111, GE 661 or silicone grease as follows: On 3/4 and 1 ton models with 80 or 86 mm calipers, coat mounting pin and interior of bushing with silicone grease. (I used a thin film of wheel bearing grease because I didn't read this until after).
3. Install caliper over rotor and into steering knuckle mounting arms. Be sure caliper is seated flush on mounting arm surfaces.
4. Start caliper mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross threading. Tighten bolts to 38 ft lbs torque.
5. Install ABS sensor and bracket. Mine had blue Loctite on from factory so I used some when I put it back together. Couldn't find torque spec. Don't break 'em.
6. Attach steering ball joint arm. Could not find torque spec for this so mine is pretty damn tight (PDT).
7. Install wheel and tire assembly.
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Torque wheel lug nuts to 120 - 150 ft lbs torque. (8 lug wheel).
10. Pump brake pedal to reseat caliper pistons and brake pads. Caution: Do not move vehicle until brakes have been seated.
11. Check brake fluid level and add fluid if necessary.
Good luck. Sorry this is so long. Hope it helps someone out there. Hope I didn't leave anything too important out.
If this is too hard to read, send me an email and I'll send you it in a Word document that is a litter better formatted.
Reassembly:
Knuckle Installation:
1. Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs. Install and tighten the lower ball stud nut to 35 ft lbs torque. I had to put a jack under the knuckle to hold pressure up so that the ball stud didn't turn inside the knuckle. The nut is a lock nut and it's pretty stiff.
2. Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 70 ft lbs torque. Advance nut to next slot to line up hole and install new cotter pin.
3. Re-torque lower ball stud nut to 140 - 160 ft lbs torque.
Hub and axle installation:
1. Clean out axle shaft before you reinstall the axle so you don't get any crap on the axle that will make the oil seal leak. I made something that resemble my gun cleaning kit and wiped it with rags until they came out clean. Be careful not to push any dirt into the differential or into the seal. Someone else said they made a scraper.
2. Apply a thin film of wheel bearing grease to the axle shaft splines, seal contact surface, and hub bore.
3. Install the axle shaft into the housing and differential side gears. Avoid damaging the axle shaft oil seals in the differential.
4. Install dust shield, shim, and hub bearing on knuckle.
5. Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and tighten to 125 ft lbs torque.
6. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten nut to 175 ft lbs torque. You'll have to use a bar in the knuckle to keep the axle from turning. Don't damage your new grease zerk in the u-joint with the bar. My torque wrench only went to 150 but it was so hard to get it to the next slot in the nut so the cotter pin lined up, I'm sure I'm past the 175 ft lb spec.
Brake component installation:
1. Clean caliper and steering knuckle slide surfaces with wire brush and apply multi-mileage grease to slide surfaces.
2. [the book says] Lubricate caliper mounting bolts, collars, bushings and bores with Dow 111, GE 661 or silicone grease as follows: On 3/4 and 1 ton models with 80 or 86 mm calipers, coat mounting pin and interior of bushing with silicone grease. (I used a thin film of wheel bearing grease because I didn't read this until after).
3. Install caliper over rotor and into steering knuckle mounting arms. Be sure caliper is seated flush on mounting arm surfaces.
4. Start caliper mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross threading. Tighten bolts to 38 ft lbs torque.
5. Install ABS sensor and bracket. Mine had blue Loctite on from factory so I used some when I put it back together. Couldn't find torque spec. Don't break 'em.
6. Attach steering ball joint arm. Could not find torque spec for this so mine is pretty damn tight (PDT).
7. Install wheel and tire assembly.
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Torque wheel lug nuts to 120 - 150 ft lbs torque. (8 lug wheel).
10. Pump brake pedal to reseat caliper pistons and brake pads. Caution: Do not move vehicle until brakes have been seated.
11. Check brake fluid level and add fluid if necessary.
Good luck. Sorry this is so long. Hope it helps someone out there. Hope I didn't leave anything too important out.
If this is too hard to read, send me an email and I'll send you it in a Word document that is a litter better formatted.
